Trinidad and Tobago travel guide

Some authors to investigate are CLR James, Samuel Selvon, Shiva Naipaul, all now deceased, as well as Shiva’s more famous brother, VS Naipaul, who in 2001 won the Nobel Prize for Literature. Another Nobel winner, the St Lucian Derek Walcott, spent many years with the Trinidad Theatre Workshop. Also, look out for works by the historian and past prime minister Dr Eric Williams, Earl Lovelace and Valerie Belgrave (whose Ti Marie has been described as the ‘Caribbean Gone with the Wind’). Although the tradition of performance poetry is not as strong here as in, say, Jamaica (calypso fulfils some of its role), the monologues of Paul Keens-Douglas, some of which are on album or cassette, are richly entertaining and a great introduction to the local dialect or patois (if now somewhat dated).

Barrow, Russel Birds of Trinidad and Tobago – A Photographic Atlas (MEP Trinidad, 1994, out of print). Has clear and striking pictures.

Comeau, P, L Guy, E Heesterman, and H Clayton The Trinidad and Tobago Field Naturalists’ Club Trail Guide (1992). 288 pages on 48 trails, difficult to obtain.

Ffrench, Richard A Guide to the Birds of Trinidad and Tobago (Cornell University Press), Introductory information on rainfall, the environment and vegetation as well as birds. Recommended.

Ffrench, Richard Birds of Trinidad and Tobago (Macmillan Caribbean Pocket Natural History Series). A shorter guide with colour photos of 83 of the more common species.

Ffrench and Bacon Nature Trails of Trinidad, First published in 1982, has been revised by Dr Victor Quesnel and reissued by SM Publications Ltd under the auspices of the Asa Wright Nature Centre.

Kenny, Julian Views from the Ridge (Prospect Press). This beautifully produced and illustrated work by a respected local biologist is now out of print, but Flowers of Trinidad and Tobago came out in 2006 and can be found in Nigel Khan bookshops.

Smailes, Alex Trinidad and Tobago (Macmillan, 2006). A beautiful book of photographs with introduction by Jeremy Taylor.

Petroleum, natural gas and their products dominate the economy, providing about 31% of GDP, 33% of government current revenue but only 3% of employment. Production is around 150,000 barrels a day. There is one refinery, at Pointe-à-Pierre. The island has substantial proven reserves of natural gas of 733 billion cu m, producing about 28 billion cu m a year. These are used as a basic raw material for the production of petrochemicals such as methanol and ammonia, to provide liquefied natural gas for export and to provide electric power throughout the country. Trinidad’s mineral deposits include asphalt from the pitch lake at La Brea on the southwest coast, gypsum, limestone, sand and gravel, which are mainly used for construction.

Agriculture now contributes only 0.8% of GDP and employs only 5% of the labour force. Coffee and cocoa production has fallen and the sugar industry is being phased out. A shortage of fruits and vegetables pushed up prices by 26% in 2006.

Tourism is an important source of foreign exchange, but only really in Tobago. Of 460,195 total stopover arrivals in 2005, 33%, around 154,000, were leisure tourists staying in hotels and guesthouses, most of whom go to Tobago. Business visitors made up 18% of the total and 60% are Trinidadians and visitors staying with friends and relatives. Tobago now has 2,200 hotel rooms available, following an expansion in construction, notably a 200-room Hilton hotel, while Trinidad has slightly fewer. There were 67,000 cruise ship passengers in 2005, most of them to Port of Spain but with some to Tobago. Neither island is a major cruise port.

The rainforests of the Northern Range running along the north coast and the wetlands on the east and west coast are more extensive, more dense and display a greater diversity of fauna and flora than any other ecosystems in the Caribbean. The Forestry Division (Long Circular Rd, St James, Port of Spain, T6224521) information on guided tours and hikes) has designated many parts of Trinidad and Tobago as national parks, wildlife reserves and protected areas. On Trinidad, the national parks are the Caroni and Nariva Swamps, Matura and Chaguaramas.

Many flowering trees can be seen on the islands: pink and yellow poui, frangipani, cassia, pride of India, immortelle, flamboyant, jacaranda. Among the many types of flower are hibiscus, poinsettia, chaconia (wild poinsettia – the national flower), ixora, bougainvillea, orchid, ginger lily and heliconia. The Horticultural Society of Trinidad and Tobago (PO Box 252) has its office on Lady Chancellor Road, Port of Spain, T6226423.

The islands are home to 60 types of bat, and other mammals include the Trinidad capuchin and red howler monkeys, brown forest brocket (deer), collared peccary (quenk), manicou (opossum), agouti, rare ocelot and armadillo. A small group of manatees is being protected in a reserve in the Nariva Swamp. Other reptiles include iguanas and 47 species of snakes, of which few are poisonous: the fer-de-lance (locally, mapipire), bushmaster and two coral snakes. The variety of fauna on Tobago is larger than on other similar-sized islands because of its one-time attachment to South America. It is home to 210 different bird species, 123 different butterfly species, 16 types of lizards, 14 kinds of frogs, 24 species of snakes (all of them harmless), and it has some spectacled caymans at Hillsborough Dam.

Trinidad and Tobago together have more species of birds than any other Caribbean island, although the variety is South American, not West Indian. No species is endemic, but Tobago has 13 species of breeding birds not found on Trinidad. Some estimates say that there are 433 species of bird, including 41 hummingbirds, parrots, macaws, the rare red-breasted blackbird, the nightingale-thrush and the mot mot. There are also 622 recorded species of butterfly. The most accessible birdwatching sites are the Caroni Bird Sanctuary, the Asa Wright Centre, the Caurita Plantation and the Wild Fowl Trust.

Each October Trinidad and Tobago hold Natural History Festivals to foster understanding of the islands’ flora and fauna. The Trinidad Field Naturalists Club (PO Box 642, Port of Spain,T6248017 (evenings only)) organizes walks on Sunday.

Trinidad and Tobago became a republic within the Commonwealth on 1 August 1976 under a constitution which provides for a President and a bicameral Parliament comprising a 31-seat Senate and a 36-seat House of Representatives. Tobago has its own 12-seat House of Assembly, which runs many local services. In 2003 the presidential election was won by Max Richards, a former principal of the University of the West Indies. The electoral college which votes for the president is made up of the House of Representatives and the Senate.

Duty-free imports: 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 g tobacco, 1 litre wine or spirits, and US$480 worth of gifts. Passengers in transit, or on short visits, can deposit goods such as liquor with customs at the airport and retrieve it later free of charge. Duty- free prices at the airport are low. Duty-free shops are accessible to arriving passengers.

Passports are required by all visitors. Visas are not required for visits of under three months by nationals of Caricom (except Haiti), most Commonwealth countries, West European countries, USA, Argentina, Brazil, Colombia, Israel, Iceland and Turkey; holders of OAS passports; and by Venezuelans for stays of up to 14 days. Citizens of some Commonwealth countries do need visas, however; these include Australia, New Zealand, India, Sri Lanka, Nigeria, South Africa, Uganda, Tanzania and Papua New Guinea. A visa normally requires 48 hours’ notice. A waiver for those with no visa from some countries can be obtained at the airport, but it costs TT$50. Entry permits for one to three months are given on arrival; a one-month permit can be extended at the Immigration Office 67 Frederick St, Port of Spain, T6253571, 0600-1400; 131 Covvee St, San Fernando, T6536691, 0700-1430; Port Authority Building, Milford Road, Scarborough, T6392681. Your first visit is to make an appointment for a couple of days later; allow several hours for return visit, making sure you take all documents including ticket to home country. The fee varies according to nationality. Try and get a three-month entry permit if planning a long stay. Business visitors are allowed to work without a work permit for one month in any 12 consecutive months.

Even though you may not get asked for it, all travellers need a return ticket to their country of origin, dated, not open-ended, proof that they can support themselves during their stay and an address at which they will be staying in Trinidad (the tourist office at the airport can help). A ferry ticket to Venezuela has often satisfied immigration officials, but it is unwise to rely on this. Only those coming from an infected area need a yellow fever inoculation certificate.

A local non-alcoholic drink is mauby, slightly bitter and made from the bark of a tree. Sorrel is a bright red Christmas drink made from sepals of a plant from the hibiscus family. There is also ginger beer, and you can get sorrel and ginger beer shandy. Fresh lime juice is recommended; it is sometimes served with a dash of Angostura bitters. There are lots of rums to try, many of which are better without punch or Coke. Local beers are Carib and Stag, both owned by the same company, which also brews Carlsberg, Mackeson, Royal Stout and Guinness; Samba is a locally brewed independent.

Hotels and guesthouses serve a wide variety of European, American and traditional West Indian (or Creole) dishes, including pork souse, black pudding, roast suckling pig, sancoche and callaloo stews, and many others. There is also a strong East Indian influence and lots of Chinese restaurants too. Seafood, particularly crab and shrimp, is excellent. If you’ve a yen for the best pepper shrimps in the Caribbean, the Chinese restaurants in Trinidad are generally good, with chefs often direct from China. However, the standard can drop abruptly when the chef gets his US visa. There is plenty of choice, and the menus are fairly ‘authentic’, even in some cheap places, although others can be greasy and nasty. There is a local fish called salmon, which is a white fish, no relation to the Scottish/Canadian variety. Smoked herring and salt cod are often eaten with a fried bake, especially for breakfast. The many tropical fruits and vegetables grown locally include the usual tropical fruits: large and juicy pineapples, pawpaws, very good sapodillas, and starchy eddoes and yam tanias. Varieties of bananas include the mini sweet siquier, the large plantain (eaten fried) and the savoury green fig salad. Citrus season is January to March. Fruit and vegetables to seek out later in the year include mangoes (a huge variety: julie, graham, peter, starch, pineapple, long, doudou, etc) and large, creamy avocados (locally called zaboca). Coconut water from a fresh nut is refreshing, usually sold around the Savannah, Port of Spain and on Independence Square after dark, US$0.65 per nut. A distinctive local herb is chadon beni, tastes a bit like coriander.

The roti, a chapatti pancake which comes in various forms, filled with peppery stew, shrimp or vegetable curries, is very good, US$1.50 or so for vegetable, up to US$4 for shrimp. Buss up shut is a torn-up paratha, or Indian bread accompaniment to curries. Creole food (African-influenced, home-cooked food) is popular at lunchtime. Pelau, savoury peas and rice and meat cooked with coconut and pepper, is also good. Some other popular meat dishes are cow-heel soup and chicken-foot and pig-foot souse. Use the local pepper sauce in moderation unless you are accustomed to chili dishes. Non-meat-eaters are well catered for. Try saheena, deep-fried patties of spinach, dasheen, split peas and mango sauce. Pholouri are fritters made with split peas. Buljol is a salt fish with onions, tomatoes, avocado and pepper. Callaloo is a thick soup based on dasheen leaves. Doubles are curried chickpeas (channa) in two pieces of fried barra (mini pancakes), eaten for breakfast and bought from street stalls across the country. A hops is a crusty bread roll. If you go to Maracas Bay, have shark-and-bake, a spicy fried bread sandwich of fried shark with a variety of sauces such as tamarind, garlic, chadon beni; kingfish-and-bake, shrimp-and-bake are alternatives; also sugar cakes, made with grated coconut. Pastelles, eaten at Christmas, are maize flour parcels stuffed with minced meat, olives, capers and raisins, steamed in a banana leaf. Dumplings are a must on Tobago, particularly good with crab. A local sweet in Tobago is benny balls, made from sesame seeds. Salt prunes (Chinese) and red mango are on sale almost everywhere. There’s a huge variety at the lookout before you get to Maracas. In rural areas you may come across wild meat festivals (coincide with the hunting season Oct-Dec), consisting of a rich stew of local meats, bones and all, such as agouti, quenck, lappe, tattoo (armadillo), manicou.

Taking the ferry is time-consuming; it is easier to fly. Boats from Port of Spain to Tobago two or three times a day; times vary monthly. Fast ferry, The Lynx (800 passengers, 200 vehicles), or The Cat, do the crossing in under 2½ hours. The Panorama 5½ hours, and The Warrior Spirit, 7 hours are older and less comfortable. Tickets are sold at the Port Authority (T6392417 in Tobago or T6232901 ext 160 in Trinidad) on the docks. Tickets for the fast ferries are US$8 each way, slower ferries US$6 each way, cabin for 2 US$12.80 when available, children under 12 half price, under 3 free, office hours Mon-Fri 0700-2300, Sat 0700-1600, Sun 0700-1400) . Buy passage in advance, everyone will recommend you to queue at 0800, but 1000 is usually early enough. At peak times such as Christmas, Carnival and Easter it is best to book several weeks ahead. Weekends also get booked up quickly. You need a boarding pass and not just a ticket before you can board. Ferry also takes cars but it is easier to rent separately each end.

Driving is on the left and the roads are narrow and winding. On Trinidad there are dual carriageways from Port of Spain south to San Fernando, west to Diego Martin and east to Arima, but these and other roads are not of a high standard. Neither is the driving. No-entry signs are misleadingly placed; some have a little notice underneath saying they apply only to public transport (private cars can enter). The rush hour on Trinidad starts early and ends late. Traffic is very heavy. Allow at least an hour to leave Port of Spain in the late afternoon. There may be traffic jams at surprising times, eg returning from Chaguaramas small hours of weekends, or after beach on Sun pm; or whenever there is a police roadblock exercise. There are lots of pot-holes almost everywhere and traffic weaves about all over the place at high speed to avoid them. Taxis (licence plates beginning with H) tend to stop suddenly in the middle of the road to pick up/drop off passengers. Allow a full day if going from Port of Spain to Toco in the northeast or to the far southwest, if you want to have time to see anything or relax before returning. On rural roads there are prominent kilometre posts. The older mile posts are still often there too and are used in some postal addresses (eg 21 mile post, Toco Road). In some of the more chaotic suburbs, light poles have a similar role (eg M Smith, opposite Light Pole 12, Smith Trace, Morvant). On Tobago the roads are fairly good in the south but storms and landslides frequently disrupt passage in the north. Mountain bikes are fine if you can stand the hills and the heat.

Landslides are a risk on both islands during (or after) heavy rain, and can block roads, eg along the north coast of Trinidad. Flooding may also block roads particularly in the Caroni plains of central Trinidad.

International and most foreign driving licences are accepted for up to 90 days; after that you need to apply for a Trinidad and Tobago licence and take a written test. All drivers must always carry their licence and insurance with them. Documents are inspected at police road blocks, which are frequent on many main roads. Do not leave anything in your car, theft is frequent. Be careful where you park in Port of Spain, police ‘wreckers’ are diligent and will tow the car away. It costs US$17 to retrieve it and you need to show your driver’s licence and insurance documents. There are a few car parks (eg Independence Square), mostly charging US$0.80 an hour.

Car hire Some companies only rent for a minimum of three days. Rental can be difficult on Trinidad, particularly at weekends and around Carnival, because of heavy demand. Best to make reservations in advance. Several companies do not accept credit cards, but require a considerable cash deposit. Small, older cars can be rented from US$30 a day upwards, unlimited mileage, check tyres before driving off. Deposit varies from company to company, as does method of payment, book in advance. Many companies have offices at the airport.

Bus On all routes, purchase your ticket at the kiosk before boarding the bus; you may have to tender the exact fare. In Trinidad, the word ‘taxi’ includes most forms of public transport. The word ‘travelling’ means going by bus or taxi rather than by private car. Buses are run by the PTSC. A/c buses, Express Commuter Service (ECS), with a/c lounge for waiting passengers, run on main routes from City Gate Terminal to Arima, Chaguanas, Five Rivers, Sangre Grande, Chaguaramas and San Fernando, also from Arima to Sangre Grande. Rural buses are extremely infrequent. The PTSC office (T6237872) is located at the remodelled South Quay railway station, called City Gate, and is the main terminal for both buses and maxi taxis. You can get information showing how to reach the various sights by bus. Unified Maxi Taxi Association is T6243505. On Tobago all buses originate in Scarborough (PTSC T6392293). Schedules are changed or cancelled frequently. The route taxi system is difficult for the foreigner, being based on everyone knowing every car and therefore where it is going, but official route taxis have an ‘H’ (for hire) at the start of the licence plate. Ask for directions for where to assemble for a particular route.

Taxi Look for cars with first letter ‘H’ on licence plates (no other markings). Taxis are expensive. St Christopher’s taxis or airport taxis, T6251694, operate from the main hotels, Ice House taxis, T6276984, and Independence Square Taxi Service, T6253032, from Independence Square. Helpful drivers approach all stray white people on Independence Square, but this can be confusing if you are really looking for a route taxi (or a beer). There are fixed fares (eg US$20 to the airport during the day, US$30 after 2200), but agree on a price before the journey and determine whether the price is in TT$ or US$. Book ahead if you have a flight to catch. Phone A Taxi, T6288294, and Kalloo’s, T6229073, slightly cheaper day or night. Take a taxi if you have a complicated journey, or you have heavy baggage, or it is raining. At night it can be a lot cheaper than getting robbed. Route taxis (similar to colectivos) are very cheap but not as comfortable. These cannot easily be distinguished from ordinary taxis, so ask the driver. They travel along fixed routes, like buses, but have no set stops, so you can hail them and be dropped anywhere along the route. During rush hour they often pass full, however, and in general it takes time to master the system. They are the only means of transport on some suburban routes, such as to St Ann’s, and in rural areas away from main roads. Travelling to remote areas may involve three or more taxis, not really a problem, just ask where the next one stops. Major routes run all night and are amazingly frequent during the day, others become infrequent or stop late at night. There are also ‘pirate’ or ‘PH’ taxis with the P registration of a private car, which cost the same as the ordinary route taxis. Use these with caution; they are unlicensed and not insured for carrying paying passengers. Robberies have been reported. ‘Ghost’ taxis accept fares and drive off with your luggage as well – be warned. Maxi-taxis are minibuses; they are frequent and go as fast as the traffic will allow, often a bit faster .

Hitchhiking Hitching is not common and is not advised anywhere – why take the risk when route taxis are cheap and frequent!

Tobago Express, T6275160, flies the Trinidad to Tobago route offering lots of daily flights; Caribbean Star also flies once a day. The crossing takes 20 minutes and costs US$50 return (or TT$300 which works out slightly cheaper). Departures, however, are often heavily booked at weekends and holidays, particularly Christmas and afterwards, also pre- and post-Carnival and Easter weekend (at other times tickets can sometimes be bought the same day).

There is a regular ferry service between Güiria, Venezuela, and Pier One, at Chaguaramas. The ferry service between Trinidad and Tobago is cheap, comfortable, but heavily booked at weekends and holidays.

Yachts Chaguaramas, Trinidad, and Scarborough, Tobago are the ports of entry. In Chaguaramas, take the boat to the customs dock (T6344341, open 24 hours) to clear on arrival in Trinidad and fill in combined customs and immigration form. Overtime fee for after hours, 1600-0800, weekends and holidays, so it pays to arrive during normal working hours. A clearance out certificate from your last port is required. Immigration and Customs at Scarborough is open 0800-1600 weekdays, T6392415.

Departure by sea Clear out with customs and immigration. Pay port fees of US$8 for each month that the boat was in Trinidad and Tobago waters. To go from one island to the other clear out with Immigration and in on the new island. Clear customs only when making final departure. New arrivals must be signed aboard the vessel as crew by immigration in Chaguaramas.

Departure by air Boats can be left in storage; yacht yards will help with paperwork, present it to customs and clear with immigration within 24 hours of departure for exemption from departure tax. When returning to Trinidad by air, go to third party line at airport to get paperwork to take with baggage to Chaguaramas customs to clear. Arriving outside office hours leave boat parts for weekday review. Arriving guests should have return ticket and letter to Trinidad immigration stating vessel name and official number.

Information The Boca is a useful monthly ‘yachtie’ magazine available locally or at http://www.boatersenterprise.com. The annual Boaters Directory (produced December, T6342622) lists services for yachties: US$10 overseas, free to arriving yachties. The editor, Jack Dausend, T6342055, is prepared to offer advice to potential visitors. The Yacht Services Association (T6344938) is also extremely helpful.

Marinas The Trinidad marinas are all west of Port of Spain along the coast to Chaguaramas. Trinidad and Tobago Yacht Club (TTYC) (Bayshore, T/F6374260) a private club, leases members’ slips to visiting yachts when available, 60 in-water berths, security, restaurant, bar, laundry. Trinidad and Tobago Sailing Association (TTSA) (Chaguaramas, T6344519) a private members’ association with moorings and anchorage available to visiting yachts, full service haul-out yard, 15-ton marine hoist, moorings, repair shed, bar, restaurant, laundry. Power Boats Mutual Facilities (Chaguaramas, T6344303, F6344327) haul-out and storage, 50-ton marine hoist, 23 in-water berths, boat storage, marine supplies, fibreglass repairs, welding, woodworking, apartments, grocery, restaurant, laundry. Peake Yacht Services (Chaguaramas, T6344423, F6344387) full service marina, 150-ton marine hoist, capable of beams to 31 ft, 21 in-water berths, boat storage, 10-room hotel, restaurant, wi-fi, laundry, skilled maintenance, recommended. Industrial Marine Services (IMS) (Chaguaramas, T6252104, F6344437) full service haul-out and storage yard, 70-ton marine hoist, paint shop, chandlery, sailmaker, fibreglass repair, welding, woodworking, sandblasting, restaurant, laundry. Crews Inn Yachting Centre (Chaguaramas, T6344384) is best equipped with on-shore facilities, including a 46-room hotel with pool and gym, Lighthouse restaurant, Republic Bank with ATM, Econocar car rental agency, T6342041, hair salon, duty-free liquor store. Tardieu Marine nearby will lift and dry storage. Sweet Water Marina, also nearby, T6344046, has a restaurant. All locations charge a fee to anchored boats for use of shoreside facilities.

Newspapers: The main daily papers are the Daily Express, the Trinidad Guardian and Newsday. The Mirror on Friday and Sunday has interesting if unreliable investigative journalism. Tobago News is weekly. There are several racier weekly papers which appear on Friday or Saturday. Punch, Bomb, Heat and Blast are sensational tabloids. Discover Trinidad and Tobago, is published annually and distributed free to all visitors through hotels.

Radio: There are at least 20 FM stations, some niche-marketed, for example for an Indo-Trinidadian audience, or community based. These include ICN Radio (610 AM), Radio Trinidad (730 AM), Music Radio (97 FM), 98.9 Yes FM, WABC (103 FM), ICN Radio (100 FM), Radio 95 FM, Radio Tempo (105 FM), Radio 96.1 FM, Rhythm (Radio 95.1 FM), Radio 1CN (91.1 FM), Sangeet (106.1 FM), Love Radio (94.1 FM), Hot (93 FM), Central Radio (90.5 FM), Power 102 FM.

Television: Major local TV stations in Trinidad are CCN TV and the news channel CNC, independent, also smaller independents: Gayelle, IETV, National Carnival Commission TV, IBN (Islamic Broadcasting Network), and ACT (Christian channel). There are 66 cable channels, mostly US, but also the BBC and Indian channels. Tobago has its own 56 channels, including Deutsche Welle TV. DirecTV (satellite) has channels in Spanish, Portuguese, French, German and Italian as well as US basics and BBC.

Country code: 868.

Large-scale and island-wide maps of both islands can be bought from the Lands and Survey Division (118 Frederick St, T6279204) . Some areas are out of print.

The Tourism Development Company (TDC) (Level 1, Maritime Centre, 29 Tenth Av, Barataria, T6757034, tourism-info@tdc.co.tt, open 0800-1600) gives you a nice little carrier bag with maps and this year’s event calendar, etc. Very quiet, the pleasant staff have plenty of time to help. They have lists of hotels, restaurants, tour operators, monthly schedule of events, maps for sale, etc. The office at the airport (T6695196, daily 0900-2300) is helpful with hotel or guesthouse reservations for your first night (maps of Trinidad and Port of Spain for sale). The National Carnival Commission (Queen’s Park West, Port of Spain, T6271350, nccmac@tstt.net.tt) Division of Tourism and Transportation (Doretta’s Court, 197 Mt Marie, Scarborough, Tobago, T6392125, http://www.visittobago.gov.tt, or at Crown Point Airport, T6390509, or at the port) .

is unsafe and is not recommended.

There are many hotels on the islands including some very good guesthouses and smaller hotels. Information about accommodation can be obtained from TDC. VAT (15%) is charged by all hotels and in most a 10% service charge is added to the bill. Some, like the Hilton, add a 2% surcharge.

Caribbean Airlines replaced BWIA in January 2007, offering flights to Toronto, New York, Miami, London (direct using a codeshare arrangement with British Airways or via Barbados) and Caribbean destinations, Sunjet House, 30 Edward St, Port of Spain, T6272942, http://www.caribbean-airlines.com, with offices also at Piarco, San Fernando and Crown Point, Tobago. Tobago Express, also at 30 Edward St, T6252470, http://www.tobagoexpress.com, opens for reservations at 0800. American Airlines, 69 Independence Sq, T8216000, at Piarco, T6690261. Air Canada is at Piarco, T6694065. LIAT, 9-11 Edward St, T6276274, at Piarco, T6694770, at Crown Point, T6390484. Martinair, T6312000, bookingoffice@beautifultobago.com, or in Amsterdam T312-06011767. Surinam Airways, T6274747. Caribbean Star, at Piarco Airport, T6698153. Aeropostal 110-112 Frederick St, T6236641, and at Piarco, T6698593. Continental Airlines, Furness Building, Independence Sq, T6242764. United Airlines and Avior, 13 Pembroke St, T6238201. Conviasa, 78 Wrightson Rd, T6274118. Virgin Atlantic, Crown Point, Tobago, T1-800 7447477. British Airways, Crown Point, Tobago, T1-800 7442997. Excel, Crown Point, Tobago, T6390484.

This is one of the few countries to charge departure tax to passengers arriving to change planes and leave same day; it’s cheaper, therefore, to change planes in, say, Barbados.

Trinidad Piarco International Airport is 16 miles southeast of Port of Spain. The enormous terminal has plenty of space, if few comfortable places to sit. Downstairs departure area has ATMs, several fast food restaurants (quiet one upstairs) and a First Citizens Bank foreign exchange office open 0600-2200, shops selling snacks, crafts and souvenirs. There are a number of duty-free shops; upstairs for a fairly well-stocked bookshop, a bar and (very expensive) fast food. Try to avoid overnight connections here. Airline schedules ensure that it is possible to arrive at Piarco after the check-in counters have closed until next morning, so you cannot go through to the departure lounge. Sky cap has 24-hour left luggage service. If you are in transit always check that your bags have not been off-loaded at Piarco, some are not checked through despite assurances. Telephone (Companion) cards are for sale at the book stall close to Check-in (a long walk from Arrivals).

Mar Tobago’s carnival is very quiet compared with Trinidad’s.

Mar/Apr On Easter Mon and Tue, there are crab, goat and donkey races at Buccoo Village.

Jul The Tobago Heritage Festival lasts for the second fortnight of the month, with historical re-enactments, variety shows and parades.