La Paz travel guide

Background

The first Europeans to arrive in Baja California Sur were a band of mutinous sailors headed by Fortún Jiménez, but most of them met a violent end at the hands of local tribes, the Guaicura and Pericú among them. Cortés himself followed suit, establishing a short-lived colony on the peninsula in 1535. Three years later the colony was abandoned due to logistical challenges and a lack of local resources. Sebastián Vizcaíno was the next to arrive in the area, receiving a far more friendly reception than his predecessor, Jiménez. He found the locals so amiable he named the bay where he landed ‘Bahía de Paz’ or ‘Peace Bay’.

During the 17th and 18th centuries the many caves, islands and secluded inlets of the region became a favourite enclave for pirates. In response to their activities, a reconnaissance ship was sent to explore the Sea of Cortés and locate a suitable place for a new defensive colony. The mission culminated in the establishment of a community, but this too was destroyed by local tribes. Finally, in 1810, a small group of fishers and farmers successfully founded a community at La Paz. And after Loreto was obliterated by a hurricane, it became the capital of Baja California, thriving on pearls, fishing and farming.

The city was occupied twice during the mid-19th century – first by US troops during the American-Mexican war, and later by US filibuster William Walker, who invaded illegally and declared himself President of the Republic of Sonora. He later fled and was executed for trying the same trick in Nicaragua. During the 1940s, La Paz’s precious pearl industry was wiped out by disease and the city turned its hand to tourism, becoming a favourite haunt of US celebrities in the 1950s. In 1974, Baja California Sur was granted statehood and La Paz became its capital. Poised between road, air and sea connections, it quickly grew into the popular and important destination it is today.

Getting around

La Paz is easily explored on foot, however, city buses and unmetered taxis are widely available. The main hub of local buses is the Mercado Municipal, Calle Degollado and Revolución.

Getting there

General Manuel Márquez de León International Airport (11 km southwest of the city centre, just off Highway 1.) Fixed-price taxis run to the centre for about US$25; shared Transporte Terrestre colectivos cost around US$11 per person. The ferry terminal is at Pichilingue, 23 km north of the centre. Buses run to the centre of town but may take a while to fill due to lengthy security checks of passengers arriving at the terminal. Consider taking a taxi for around US$25, or a colectivo for US$6 – agree a price before getting in. The bus terminal is conveniently located on the waterfront malecón in the centre of town.

Air

General Manuel Márquez de León International Airport (LAP), 11 km southwest on paved road off Highway 1, T612-122 2959. Taxi fare US$20, colectivo US$14. Flights to Chihuahua, Ciudad Obregón, Culiacán, Guadalajara, Hermosillo, Loreto, Los Mochis, Mazatlán, Mexico City, Monterrey, Tijuana. Flights to the USA include Los Angeles and Phoenix. More charter flights in high season.

Airline offices

Aero California, Alvaro Obregón 55, T612-125 4353. AeroMéxico, T612-124 6366.

Bicycle

Viajes Palmira, Av Obregón, opposite Hotel los Arcos, T612-122 4030. Rents bikes/mopeds.

Local

Bus journeys cost about US$0.50; the depot is at Revolución de 1910 y Degollado by the Mercado Central. The Central Camionera (main bus station) is at Jalisco y Héroes de la Independencia, about 16 blocks from the centre (taxi US$2). However, you can get most buses you need from the promenade Aguila terminal on Obregón between Independencia and 5 de Mayo, 1 block up from Carlos ‘n’ Charlies.

Long distance

Buses heading for the cape go clockwise or anti-clockwise. Head anti-clockwise if going to Todo Santos or Cabo San Lucas. Services at 0730, 1030, 1130, 1530 and 1930, 2½ hrs, US$10. Head clockwise if going to San José del Cabo. Services at 0800, 1000, 1200, 1430, 1630 and 1830, 3 hrs, US$10. Information T122-7094 ext 111.

For most long-distance journeys you’ll need the main terminal. To Guerrero Negro, 6 per day, US$63. To Loreto, 3 per day, US$25. To Tijuana, 1300 and 2000, 22 hrs, US$121. Try to book at least 2 weeks ahead (6 weeks at Christmas, Easter and Jul-Aug).

Car

Budget, Avis, Hertz, Auto Renta Sol and Auto Servitur booths at the airport.

Ferry

For the schedule to Mazatlán and Topolobampo, see box opposite. The modern ferry terminal is at Pichilingüe, 21 km north on paved highway.

Tickets for the same day are sold at the terminal. Advance tickets may be bought at Baja Ferries at I La Católica y Navarro, tollfree on T01-800-337-74337, www.baja ferries.com.mx, and some local travel agents. Also has offices in Los Mochis and several other towns in the area.

In general book in advance whenever possible, especially if travelling by vehicle and your journey time is critical. Tourist cards must be valid. Allow 2 hrs as there are long queues when buying tickets and boarding. In the past, many motorists have had difficulty getting reservations or having them honoured. Vehicles must have car permits, obtainable at the ferry terminal or at Registro Federal de Vehículos in Tijuana; automobile clubs will provide information. Service and conditions on the ferry are improving.

The bus to Pichilingüe leaves from the seafront terminal in La Paz. The terminal has reasonable facilities but is crowded; large car parks, officials may permit RVs to stay overnight while awaiting ferry departures. On all ferry crossings, delays can occur from Sep if there is bad weather. Keep a flexible schedule if travelling to the mainland.

Banks

Plenty of banks and ATMs on 16 de Septiembre: Banamex, Arreola y Esquerro. 2 casas de cambio on 5 de Mayo off Obregón, 0800-2000, better rates than banks.

Immigration

2nd floor of the large building on Paseo Alvaro Obregón, opposite the pier, very helpful, able to extend visa here.

Internet

Espacio Don Tomás, Obregón between 5 de Mayo and Constitución. In an art gallery with fine snacks and coffee; and Café el Callejón, Callejón La Paz 51, with restaurant.

Laundry

Laundromat Yoli, 5 de Mayo y Rubio. Also at Marina de La Paz; and La Paz Lava, Ocampo y Mutualismo.