Isla de la Juventud travel guide

History

The Isla was always an enclave, whether populated by pirates post-Columbus, or by US businessmen and communities of Japanese farmers in the first quarter of the 20th century. In recent decades, its population has been swelled by tens of thousands of Cuban and Third World students, giving rise to the modern name of Isle of Youth. Early aboriginal inhabitants called it Camaraco, Ahao or Siguanea. The abundant pine and later casuarina (Australian pine) trees gave rise it the name Isla de Pinos (Isle of Pines), by which it was known officially before the revolutionary authorities renamed it, and local inhabitants (and their baseball team) are still called pineros by other Cubans. It earned its place in world literature as the supposed model for Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. Yet another, unofficial, name, La Isla de las Cotorras (Island of the Parrots) is a reminder of just one of the feathered species that inhabit the island’s pinewoods, though the Ciénaga de Lanier marshland extending east–west across the island is the chief magnet for ornithologists. Columbus named the island San Juan Evangelista (St John the Evangelist) when he arrived in June 1494. In the 16th and 17th centuries its use as a base by French and British pirates (including Welshman Henry Morgan who later gained respectability as governor of Jamaica) earned it another name, the Isla de Piratas (Isle of Pirates).

Place names like Estero de los Corsarios date from that era, as does Punta Francés, the lair of the French pirate Leclerc. Francis Drake also fought the Spaniards in the surrounding seas, and wrecked galleons from this era add interest to modern-day diving. The biggest draw, however, is the superb coral reef, acclaimed by Jacques Cousteau and others. Spain colonized the island in the 19th century, naming it Colonia Reina Amalia, but from the 19th century until the Revolution its main function was as a prison and both José Martí and Fidel Castro served time there.

After the Revolution, youth brigades were mobilized to plant citrus. Schools for international students, mostly from Africa (Mozambique, Angola, South Africa, Ethiopia) and Vietnam were built along the highway. Students started their studies at secondary level and returned to their countries at technical or postgraduate level. Their education was free. Students were taught on the basis of work and study and contributed to citrus cultivation. All the schools are now closed. Now the major economic activities are citrus cultivation and processing (in conjunction with Chilean capital), marble quarrying (mainly for tourism and export), fishing and tourism. The Delita mine has estimated deposits of 1,750,000 oz of gold and close to 14,000,000 oz of silver. The Isla is the centre of administration for the 2398-sq-km ‘Special Municipality’, which includes Cayo Largo and the Archipiélago de los Canarreos.

Getting around

Travel to anywhere on the island can be difficult although nearly every car will turn into a taxi on request. Fares within Nueva Gerona and to main hotels and airport are about CUC$2-7. The best way to see the island is to hire a private car with a driver/guide, which costs about CUC$35-60 a day. It is worthwhile renting a car and driver/guide simply for the drive as there are some particularly beautiful areas with green rolling hills and citrus plantations. A good day’s sightseeing will take in the Model Prison, the crocodile farm and the Hotel El Colony , where you can hire a kayak for an hour. If you hope to see the whole island, plan to spend more than a weekend, particularly if you want to see all the caves. Roads are generally in good condition. Motorbike hire from the hotels is CUC$20-30 a day (Transtur, T46-326666). Local transport is often by horse and cart (recommended for short distances), the drivers are willing to show you the sights and give you an impromptu history lesson. You cannot drive south of Cayo Piedra into the military exclusion zone without a permit, which can be obtained from Ecotur and other locations including the Buró de Turismo at Hotel Villa Isla, at car hire offices and at the Ministry of the Interior, Calle 16 at the harbour. Ecotur, is recommended as a means of getting around the island, with trips to the south and chances of spotting a wild orchid that smells like chocolate.

Getting there

The Rafael Cabrera Mustelier airport (GER) is nearly 5 km from town and there are three scheduled 40-minute flights a day from Havana. A testing way of getting to the island is by the passenger ferry from Surgidero de Batabanó on the mainland south coast. There are crossings at 1000 and 1500, but services and vessels are subject to change. It takes one to three hours depending on which boat is in use and costs CUC$50. It is usually crowded and the a/c is very cold. Do not even think about visiting the Isla without booking your transport off the island again. The plane and ferry are oversubscribed.

Air

Rafael Cabrera Mustelier airport (GER), T46-322690. There are 3 scheduled 40-min flights a day from Havana, 0600, 1450 and 1715. They return at 0710, 1600 and 1825, so you could do a day trip if you wanted. Fare CUC$32 one way (but varies with season), book in advance.

Airlines

Cubana at Calle 39 1415 entre 16 y 18, Nueva Gerona, T46-324259/322531, Mon-Fri 0800-1600, closed 1300-1400.

Bus

Buses run to La Fé, the Hotel Colony, Playa Bibijagua, and there is a bus marked ‘Servicio Aéreo’, which runs between the airport and the cinema in Nueva Gerona, but don’t rely on any of these to run on a regular basis.

Car hire

Havanautos has an office in Nueva Gerona at Calles 32 y 39, T46-324432, but the hotels also have car hire desks, daily 0700-1900. About CUC$90 a day with insurance.

Petrol stations

Cupet-Cimex fuel station is at Calles 39 y 30.

Ferry

Tickets for the bus and ferry to Nueva Gerona via Batabanó are sold from the Naviera Cubana Caribeña (NCC) kiosk at the Astro bus terminal near Plaza de la Revolución, Havana, T7-878 1841 or T7-860 0330, nccij@ transnet.cu, to check times and to find out whether you need to go on the day of departure or several days beforehand because of availability problems. You must have your passport to travel. The bus fare from Havana to Surgidero de Batabanó is CUC$4. At the port, there are some small buildings to the right of the waiting room area where you need to go to buy your passage, CUC$50, 1 way. From there you and everyone else will be checked, rechecked, checked and checked again. There is a 20-kg weight limit and they are fairly strict about it. You will also have to pass your stuff through an X-ray machine. Bring all food and drink as the Cuban cafeteria will not sustain you (unless you imagine cigarettes will) should there be delays because of mechanical problems on the boat. If you have not organized your return trip, which is highly inadvisable, you need to go to the ferry port on Martí, Nueva Gerona, T46-324436, or Agencia Sta María, Oficina de Correo, Calle 53 entre 39 a y 8, Mercado de Abel, in Nueva Gerona, T46-322270, after 1400.

Taxi

Turistaxi, at Hotel El Colony, T46-398282.