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Cayo Levisa

Puerto Esperanza, 24 km from Viñales, is a fishing town and not worth going to for beaches. There are casas particulares and plenty of food on offer, eg lobster and fish.

Further east is Cayo Levisa, part of the Archipiélago de los Colorados, with a long, sandy beach and reef running parallel to the shore, with good snorkelling and scuba diving (lots of fish). There are about 23 dive sites between 15m and 35 m deep and no more than 30 minutes away by boat. The underwater scenery is characterized by big sponges and enormous black coral trees. Angel fish are very numerous, as are barracuda and schools of jacks. The current is generally quite gentle so it is an ideal place for beginners and experts alike. There are several bits and pieces of old galleons, most of which have been covered by corals. Diving costs CUC$40, including a drink and a packed lunch, snorkelling trips are CUC$14, equipment included. In season you can windsurf or go on sailing and snorkelling trips to other cays and beaches, but from September when the sea gets rougher there is less available. Check beforehand: if you pay in advance for diving but the boat does not go out, it is time consuming to get a refund. The island is very quiet and peaceful with nothing much to do except dive or walk around the island, which takes about three hours. It is very relaxing and charming. To get to Cayo Levisa go to Palma Rubia, from where it is 15 minutes by boat to the island. There are two ferries, at 1000 and 1800, returning from Cayo Levisa at 0900 and 1700 (CUC$15 includes drink). The jetty is on the south side and you follow a boardwalk through the mangroves to get to the hotel on the north side. Take insect repellent. Hired cars can be left at the terminal building at Palma Rubia.

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