Trinidad travel guide

History

A thriving economy soon grew up around the settlement, originally based on livestock, exporting leather, meat and horses. This prize inevitably attracted the attention of adventurers and there was a particularly severe period of attacks between 1660 and 1688. Mansfield from Port Royal in Jamaica and Legrand from Tortuga, off Hispaniola, looted and set fire to the town, destroying the original archives of the church and the city hall. Unlike other populations who moved inland to escape pirate attacks, the inhabitants of Trinidad decided to stay and defend their wealth with their own fleet, inflicting several defeats on British and Dutch corsairs in the 17th and 18th centuries. After the British took Havana in 1797 they tried and failed to invade Trinidad and Sancti Spíritus, an event which is portrayed in the coats of arms of both cities.

After a time, sugar was introduced and by 1797 there were 56 sugar mills and 11,697 slaves imported to work in the sugar cane fields. Trade, the arts and sciences all expanded on the back of the sugar prosperity: Alexander von Humboldt visited and studied the fauna and flora around Trinidad; the first printing press was opened and the first newspaper began to circulate; schools of languages, music and dance were opened; a wide variety of artisans set up businesses, including gold and silversmithing; and in 1827 the Teatro Cándamo opened its doors. The well-off patricians built huge mansions for themselves (now museums) and sent their children to European universities. However, the Industrial Revolution and the increase in sugar beet grown in Europe sounded the death knell for an economy based on slave labour and in the second half of the 19th century Trinidad went into decline. Construction ceased and the city remained frozen in time with its cobbled streets and red-tiled roofs.

Best time to visit

September is good for religious processions around the 8th of the month, Cuba’s patron saint’s day, but at any time of year you can find music, dance and other festivities. Semana Santa (Easter) is another good time for processions, with a huge event on Good Friday; Semana de la Cultura is the second week of January and Carnival is in June. Expect heavy rain between September and November, when the cobbled streets become awash with water, but in the mountains it can rain any day, turning paths into muddy slopes.

Getting around

The old city should be toured on foot. The cobbled streets make wheeled transport rather uncomfortable. All the main sites are within easy walking distance of each other. For local excursions many people hire a driver and car, although some prefer to cycle to the beach (fine on the way there, harder work on the way back), and organized tours are recommended for hiking in the mountains to avoid getting lost and to make sure you go to all the right places.

Maps of Trinidad can be unbelievably difficult to follow because of the use of old and new street names. Locals of course switch from one to the other. The old ones have been painted over in white on the streets and are still legible. The new names are in black letters on white, often on the opposite side of the street.

Getting there

There is a small airport that only receives charter flights. Trinidad is not connected to the national rail network. The most convenient independent way of getting to Trinidad is by Víazul bus , with services from Havana via Cienfuegos, or from Varadero via Santa Clara and Sancti Spíritus. Most visitors to Trinidad arrive on tour buses from Havana and Varadero and do a day trip, although it is possible to extend your stay and rejoin the bus a day or two later. The drive from Sancti Spíritus through the Valley of the Sugar Mills is very attractive.

Air

No regular flights, only charters.

Bicycle/scooter hire

Cycling on cobbled streets is difficult to say the least. Scooters and bicycles can be hired from Las Ruinas de Brunet . Bicycles can also be hired through tour companies or casas particulares. Trinidad is on a hill, so cycling to the beach is easy, coming back is hard work. Make sure your bike is in good condition.

Long distance

Terminal entrance on Gustavo Izquierdo, near the corner with Piro Guinart, office daily 0600-1700, T41-994448, T44-996676 (after 2000), T53-5251 2165 (mob, for international calls and text messages), economica@trin.palmares.cu. Transport (other than with Víazul) to the east of Cuba is difficult from Trinidad as it is not on the Carretera Central. Best to go to Sancti Spíritus through beautiful hilly scenery and take the bus or train from there. In addition, Víazul runs an irregular transfer service to Havana airport, to Varadero and to Viñales, using minibuses. Go to the Víazul office a couple of days in advance to organize it.

Transtur also runs a bus service from Parque Céspedes. You can make reservations at any tour agency or go straight to Parque Céspedes if you want to travel the same day. To Havana, 0715, CUC$25, stopping in Cienfuegos, CUC$6; to Viñales, 0700, CUC$35.

Car hire

Cubacar, at Servi Cupet on the way out of Trinidad towards Casilda, T/F41-996301; at the Cubatur office, Maceo esq Zerquera, T41-996110; at Lino Pérez 366 entre Maceo y Cadahía, T41-996633; at Simón Bolívar 430 esq Maceo, T41-996257. Rent a Car Vía (Gaviota), at the airport, T41-996388. Rex, at any Cubanacán agency.

Petrol stations

Servi Cupet on the way out of Trinidad towards Casilda.

Taxi

Cubataxi, Camilo Cienfuegos on the way out to Casilda, T41-998080, or T41-992214, at the bus station. Also cocotaxis and taxis parked on Maceo entre Simón Bolívar y Colón.

Train

The station is south of the town, walk south straight down Lino Pérez until you get to the railway line, then turn right, T41-993348. Tourists can take a trip on a 1907 steam train to Manaca Iznaga daily in high season at 0900, CUC$10. Call beforehand to see if it is running as it does sometimes break down.

Accident and emergency

Police: the main police station is 1 km from the centre of town on Calle 1 in Reparto Armando Mestre. There is a sub-station at the corner of Colón and José Martí. For any problem ring T41- 996900 or 106. Fire: T105.

Banks

Bandec, José Martí 264 entre Zerquera y Colón, T41-992405, Mon-Fri 0800-1500, Sat 0800-1100. Changes TCs for dollars and cash advances on credit cards. Cadeca, Martí 164, T41-996262, half a block from Parque Céspedes, open Mon-Sat 0830-1800, Sun 0830-1200. There are cambios in Hotel Las Cuevas, Hotel Ancón and Hotel Costa Sur, where you can change TCs.

Immigration

T41-996950.

Internet

Las Begonias, Maceo entre FJ Zerquera y Simón Bolívar, 6 terminals, CUC$6 per hr, Mon-Fri 0900-2100. Etecsa, on Parque Céspedes. Email facilities, plenty of terminals but can get busy, early morning best, CUC$6 per hr, fax, phones and cards.

Medical services

The Clínica Internacional is on Lino Pérez 103 esq Anastasio Cárdenas, T41-996492, http://www.servimedcuba.com. Modern, with out-patient consultations, laboratory tests, X-rays, pharmacy, dentistry, massage and 24-hr emergency care. It is better to go there rather than to the general hospital as they have more medical supplies. They will contact your travel insurance company and arrange ambulance transfers. A consultation fee is CUC$25, a call-out fee CUC$50.

Post

Antonio Maceo 418 entre Zerquera y Colón, Mon-Sat 0800-1700, Sun 0900-1700. Another small post office on Gral Lino Pérez, Parque Céspedes, beside Iglesia San Francisco, daily 0800-1700.

Telephone

Etecsa office on Parque Céspedes for telephones, mobiles, fax and internet service.