Butha-Buthe travel guide

Butha-Buthe is the northernmost town in the lowlands, and not too far from the Caledon- spoort border post, which is open daily 0600-2200. This is the last place to get fuel before Oxbow, 68 km away. From here you can either continue north into South Africa or turn east onto the mountain road. Butha-Buthe gets its name (meaning ‘place of lying down’ or ‘place of security’) from the mountain that dominates the town; and it is here that Moshoeshoe had his first mountain stronghold. Towering above the town, this is the main attraction. The walk to the top is fairly strenuous but is worth it for the views across the town and surrounding countryside. The town itself is a busy centre with a number of supermarkets where people from the highlands come every few weeks to stock up on provisions. A large suburb known as Likileng has been constructed to provide accommodation for the workforce engaged on the tunnelling and hydropower components of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project.

From Butha-Buthe the mountain road begins in earnest and this is the original ‘Roof of Africa’ motor rally route that takes place annually at the beginning of summer. About 25 km from Butha-Buthe is the small ‘Muela Dam, and a short 7-km tar road leads up to a look- out point on the right of the Main North Road. This is another component of the Lesotho Highlands Water Project, and although you can’t see it, the newly opened underground ‘Muela Hydroelectric Power Station now provides the majority of Lesotho with power. Water is transferred to ‘Muela from Katse Dam by way of a 45-km-long tunnel which has a diameter of 4 km. It then flows though ‘Muela’s power station before emptying into a second tunnel 37 km through the mountains to the Ash River near Clarens in South Africa’s Free State. The Ash is a tributary of the Vaal River that leads to Vaal Dam in Gauteng, which provides all the thirsty province’s water. There’s a visitor centre T2248 1212, http://www.lhwp.org.ls, 0830-1630, free tours go to the underground power station at 0900 and 1400, at ‘Muela and there are plans to turn some of the construction buildings into a lodge.

Another 5 km beyond ‘Muela is the Liphofung Cave Cultural and Historical Site T2291 3206, http://www.lhwp.org.ls, daily 0830-1630, M15, children (under 16) M5. This cultural centre is another Lesotho Highlands Water Project initiative and includes three traditional Basotho huts, a small museum displaying some traditional agricultural tools and musical instruments, and a pathway and boardwalk leading to some San rock paintings dotted under and around a large overhang of rock. More significant for the Basotho, it was once a hideout of the young Moshoeshoe I. Local guides accompany visitors and explain the significance of the art. They also point out an unusual plant, the spiral aloe, which is the national plant of Lesotho. Its leaves twirl clockwise if the plant is male, and anticlockwise if it’s female. The curio shop sells high standard local handicrafts and you can camp here or stay overnight in a couple of basic rondavels....read more