Tanzania travel guide

Boyd, W An Ice-cream War. Neatly observed, humorous and sensitive tale set against the First World War campaign in East Africa.

Stuart, C Field Guide to the Larger Mammals of Africa. Covers the more easily identified large and some smaller mammals.

Briggs, P East African Wildlife. Covers the wildlife in East Africa, including birds and butterflies. Has many striking photographs.

Millar, C Battle for the Bundu. Account of the First World War in German East Africa.

Hibbert, C Africa Explored: Europeans in the Dark Continent; 1769-1889. Fascinating detail on the early explorers and their motivations, including the search for the source of the Nile.

Grzimek, B Serengeti Shall Not Die. Classic account of this world-famous park and one of the earliest publications to highlight the need for conservation of African animals.

Hemmingway, E Green Hills of Africa. An account of safaris in East Africa from 1933.

Despite still being a third world country, there has been a steady growth rate of GDP of about 7% per annum and GDP was US$56.22 billion in 2008, or per head, US$1400. For many years Tanzania was among the 50 poorest countries in the world, but it currently ranks at about 150. Agriculture is the most important sector, and cash crops such as coffee, sisal, cashews, cotton and cloves are important foreign exports and produce 27% of GDP and, more importantly, provide the livelihood of 80% of the population. The industry sector is small and is mainly limited to processing agricultural products and light consumer goods and provides 10% of GDP and the services sector provides 50% of GDP, of which 17% is in Tanzania’s tourist industry. Industry and services combined generate 20% of employment. The main commodity source of export income which stands at about US$2.5 billion per year is agriculture, which accounts for 85% of all exports. The remaining 15% includes minerals and manufactures.

Tanzania’s economy has benefited from mining and mineral resource projects over recent years, including the opening of gold mines in the interior and gas extraction plants along the coast. Mining has been an important factor in the industrial sector, and eight new gold mines have opened since 1998: almost exclusively in the Lake Victoria region. Tanzania is now Africa’s third largest producer of gold after South Africa and Ghana, and presently 50 tonnes worth about US$700 million is mined annually with these figures increasing all the time. The World Bank offers insurance for foreign investment in Tanzania, and these measures have assisted in attracting exploration capital to the country. Since the outset of the foreign companies establishing the mines, there has been an agreement with the government that they pay royalties to the government but not taxes (expected to be about 20%) until their initial investment in the mines and equipment has been recouped, which is likely to be in the next few years, In the near future the export of gold will contribute greatly to the county’s GDP. Other resources that have been tapped into recently include gas, and a gas field is now operational on the offshore island of Songo Songo. Construction of the pipeline network was completed in May 2004, and it now transports natural gas to Dar where it is used as the principal fuel for turbine generators at Songa’s Ubungo power plant, which generates about 190MW of electricity – or 45% of the country’s capacity – for the national grid. A proportion of the gas also supplies a number of other industries and power plants in Dar es Salaam.

From oral history, archaeology, linguistic analysis and anthropology (although no written records), a certain amount can be deduced about the early history of Tanzania. The Olduvai Gorge has become known as the cradle of mankind and the era of Australopithecine man probably lasted several million years. The bones of two types of hominids from the Australopithecine era found there have provided evidence of human evolution. These are Zinjanthropus, the ‘Nutcracker Man’ and Homo habilis, the ‘Handy Man’. They lived together about 2 million years ago and until recently it was thought that Homo habilis, capable of using tools, evolved into Homo erectus, and then into modern man – Homo sapiens. But this is now under some debate as in 2001, in the Lake Turkana region of Kenya, a Homo erectus complete skull (1.4 million years old) was found within walking distance of an upper jaw of a Homo habilis (1.5 million years old). This proved that they must have lived in the region at the same time, and one theory now is that they have evolved from another, older common ancestor; a missing link that has not yet been found.

By about 500,000 years ago Homo erectus was on the scene (somewhere between the Australopithecine and Homo sapiens eras). The brain was larger and the hands more nimble and therefore better at making tools. The development of tool-making is clearly seen at Olduvai Gorge. The different layers of rock contain tools of different ages, which show the development from crude tools to more efficient and sharper implements. Another collection of such tools can be found at Isimila near Iringa .

The Middle Stone Age saw the further development of hunter-gatherers who used tools, and were advanced in human ingenuity and craftsmanship and the use of fire. Progress accelerated in the Late Stone Age, which began about 100,000 years ago, and there are a number of sites from this era in Tanzania, particularly well known because they are the locations of rock painting.

With the outbreak of hostilities in Europe, the German commander General Paul von Lettow Vorbeck realized that his meagre forces could not defeat the British but he resolved to aid Germany’s efforts in the European theatre of war by tying up as many British military resources as possible. Von Lettow, his German officers and African troops conducted an astonishing rearguard campaign, retreating from Kenya through what is now Tanzania and Mozambique, and was undefeated when Germany surrendered in Europe.

Von Lettow arrived in Dar es Salaam at the start of 1914 to take command of the German forces. He was 44 years old, son of a general, a professional soldier and experienced in bush warfare from service in German South West Africa (now Namibia). His forces consisted of around 2500 Schutztruppe askaris in 14 field companies, and he promptly signalled his intentions by capturing Taveta across the border in Kenya. The British assembled a force of 5000 mainly British, South African and Indian troops and von Lettow withdrew to begin his epic, 4000-km, four-year campaign. When faced by overwhelming odds von Lettow fell back, but at defendable positions, although always hopelessly out-numbered, he inflicted fearful losses on his adversaries, most notably at Tanga and Kibata.

The British fared better when commanded by the South African, Jan Christian Smuts, for 11 months in 1916. A rare combination of intellectual, politician and soldier, he later became Prime Minister of South Africa. During the war, however, found himself pursuing an infuriatingly elusive, and surprisingly humorous, foe. He was convinced that he would trap and destroy von Lettow’s troops in Morogoro, where retreat to the south was blocked by the Ulunguru Mountains. But as his forces marched into the town they heard a mechanical piano playing Deutschland Uber Alles in the Bahnhof Hotel and, in the empty Schutztruppe barracks, on every item of furniture, was a piece of human excrement.

Never defeated, at the end of the campaign von Lettow and his force numbered 155 Germans 1156 Schutztruppe askaris and about 3000 camp-followers made up of porters and askari wives and children, many of the latter born during the campaign. Over 250,000 Allied troops had been thrown against them at one time or another during the four years. But with their ultimate defeat in the First World War, the Germans lost control of German East Africa. The northwest, now Rwanda and Burundi, went to the Belgians. The rest was renamed Tanganyika, and the British were allocated a League of Nations mandate.

In 1973 it was decided to move the capital city from Dar es Salaam on the coast to Dodoma in the centre. The position of this city is suitable in so far as it is on communication networks and is in the centre of the country about 320 km inland. However, it is also a dry and desolate area and the major problem with the plan has been the cost of moving. A Presidential official residence, the Prime Minister’s office, and a National Assembly building have all been established there but the cost of relocation and the unwillingness of government employees have forced the rest of central government to remain in Dar.

In 1975 a law was passed that gave legal supremacy to TANU as the national political party, and in 1977 TANU and the Afro-Shirazi party (which had taken control in Zanzibar after the revolution) merged to form Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM) the ‘party of the Nation’. The 1970s saw the gradual disintegration of the East Africa Community (EAC), which involved Kenya, Tanzania and Uganda in a customs union and provision of common services. Tanzania and Kenya had different ideological perspectives, and the three countries could not agree on the distribution of the costs and services of the EAC. Things came to a head over East African Airways. The failure of Tanzania and Uganda to remit funds to Kenya caused Kenya to ‘ground’ the airline (conveniently when all the planes were sitting on the tarmac in Kenya) and Tanzania reacted by closing the border with Kenya in February 1977. The border was only reopened in 1983 after the ownership of the EAC’s assets was finally agreed.

In 1978 Tanzania’s relations with neighbouring Uganda worsened and skirmishes on the border were followed by an announcement by Idi Amin that Uganda had annexed the Kagera salient. This is an area of about 1800 sq km of Tanzanian territory west of Lake Victoria. The Organization of African Unity (OAU) applied pressure, which caused Uganda to withdraw, but fighting continued. In January 1979 a Tanzanian force of over 20,000 invaded Uganda, Amin’s army capitulated and the Tanzanians rapidly took control of the southern part of the country. The invading force had withdrawn by 1981 having spent the interim period in Uganda overseeing the election of Milton Obote for the second time. A remarkable feature of this episode is that, despite being the only African country ever to win a war in the 20th century, this event is not celebrated in Tanzania. The only monument is a small pyramid on columns, located on the road from Bukoba to Masaka, just south of the border. It is dedicated to the 16 Tanzanian soldiers who died in the war.

In 1985 Nyerere decided to step down as President of Tanzania (the first President in post-independence Africa to retire voluntarily). He remained as Chairman of the party (CCM) before formally retiring from politics in 1990. Vice-President Sokoine, who had been widely thought of as Nyerere’s successor, had been killed in a car crash in October 1984. Ali Hassan Mwinyi, who was then President of Zanzibar, was nominated to be the sole candidate for President and was elected in October 1985.

Throughout the early 1980s Tanzania had been put under pressure to accept economic reforms suggested by the World Bank and International Monetary Fund. These financial institutions, as well as Western governments, aid donors and foreign investors argued that the socialist development strategy had led to a crisis involving falling incomes, decaying infrastructure, deteriorating health and educational provision and a climate of petty corruption. For many years Tanzania resisted changes, but eventually the climate of opinion changed in 1986, under Mwinyi, a market economy strategy was adopted, and Tanzania began an economic recovery.

In 1993, Tanzania allowed political parties other than CCM to form. In October 1995 there were elections in which CCM won a substantial majority of seats in the Union Assembly. The Presidency was won by the CCM candidate, Benjamin Mkapa, Mwinyi having retired after two terms in office. Mkapa won comfortably with 62% of the vote, and the practice of having two Vice-Presidents (with one being the President of Zanzibar) was discontinued.

In 1995, the main opposition in Zanzibar, the Civic United Front (CUF) ran CCM very close in both the Zanzibar Assembly and in the race for the Zanzibar Presidency. There were allegations of election fraud, supported by evidence from international observers. Nonetheless, CCM formed the administration in Zanzibar, and Salim Amour was installed as Zanzibar’s President. It was around this time that various Zanzibari separatist groups formed in exile, some wishing merely for independence, others pressing for an independent Islamic state, but splits within the separatist movement have enabled the government to contain the problem so far.

The 2000 election was fought by fewer parties, but the opposition was still divided, and CCM and Mkapa had comfortable victories. In Zanzibar the incumbent President, Salim Amour, having completed two terms, was prevented from running again. His successor as CCM candidate for the Presidency was Amani Karume, son of the former President. On election day there was chaos at the polls, and elections in 16 constituencies had to be re-run. Despite opposition claims of electoral fraud, the outcome was a victory for CCM and Karume. Seif Shariff Hamad, the CUF leader, got the remaining 33%. His party won 16 assembly seats on the island of Pemba. Both parties signed a reconciliation agreement in 2001 and Zanzibar is set to remain part of Tanzania. But the CUF, which enjoys strong support on Pemba, has called for greater autonomy and some CUF members have called for independence. In 2005, Zanzibar presented its new flag, the first time for over 40 years that the archipelago has flown its own flag since uniting with Tanganyika to form Tanzania in 1964, though Zanzibar’s government has stressed the adoption of a flag does not mean that this is a move towards independence.

In April 2004 Tanzania celebrated its 40th birthday as an independent country and in 2005 went to the polls again. Mpaka had already served for two terms and the constitution didn’t allow him to stand for a third. There were 10 party candidates for presidency but Jakaya Mrisho Kikwete from the CCM and the former Minister of Foreign Affairs under Mpaka won a land-sliding 80% of the vote. Karume kept his position on Zanzibar with 53% of the vote, though this time round it was much closer with Shariff Hamad getting 46%. Nevertheless the election was largely without incident.

By the mid-15th century the Portuguese had arrived on the scene. Vasco da Gama noted the beauty of Kilwa, and attempted to take control of the gold trade. The Portuguese were later expelled by the Arabs and the influence of the Arabs increased again. A period of reduced trading activity followed until the latter half of the 18th century when it flourished again, this time the commodity being slaves. Around 1776 the only trading route inland went southwest from Kilwa to the area around Lake Nyasa and this became increasingly important through the slave trade. During the 18th century Kilwa became East Africa’s major slave-trading port, drawing first on the peoples of southeast Tanganyika and then on the Lake Nyasa area.

In 1964 Zanzibar and Tanganyika merged to form Tanzania . An awkward union has resulted in which Zanzibar has retained its own President, Parliament, a full range of Ministries and handles most of its own finances. The President of Zanzibar was, ex officio, one of the two Vice-Presidents of Tanzania until the multiparty elections in 1995. Despite having a population that is less than 5% of the total, Zanzibar has almost a third of the seats in the Tanzanian Assembly.

After Independence there was pressure to replace Europeans with Africans in the administration and the business sector. There was also considerable demand for basic education and health services. Although economic progress was significant in these early years, there was an impatience at the slow pace of development, and Nyerere made plans for a bold, radical change.

From 1921 Britain introduced the policy of Indirect Rule, which had proved effective in other parts of colonial Africa. This involved giving a degree of political responsibility to local chiefs and ruling through them. Economic development between the wars was negligible. Tanganyika had few exportable products – unlike Uganda, there was no major cash crop such as cotton suited to production by small African farmers. The most significant export was sisal, a spiky plant that yields fibres that can be made into ropes and twine, but this required long-term, large-scale, capital-intensive investment and was not suitable for small-scale African production. It was produced almost entirely by British and Asian companies with a local workforce. The most successful African cash crop was coffee grown by the Chagga on the slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro, and by the Haya west of Lake Victoria. Coffee growing was extended to Africans by the British in 1922. Previously only settlers were allowed to grow coffee on estates established by the Germans from 1910.

Most British settlers went to Kenya where there was already a sizeable settler community and the highlands provided an attractive climate. Moreover the British presence seemed more secure in Kenya, which was a colony. The League of Nations mandate required Britain to prepare Tanganyika for eventual self-government, and the British kept expenditure on administration, infrastructure and education to a minimum.

The 1920s saw the emergence of the first African political groups. In 1922 the African Civil Servants Association of Tanganyika Territory was formed in Tanga, and in 1929 the Tanganyika African Association (TAA). Throughout the 1930s and 1940s, unions and agricultural cooperatives developed. These were not primarily political associations although their formation obviously led to increased political awareness. The major issues were land-use policies, aimed in particular at soil conservation, and the eviction of Africans to make way for white settlers. The African population in 1950 was about 8 million, compared to an Asian population of 55,000 and European population of 17,000. However, Europeans and Asians dominated local government councils even in areas that were almost exclusively African. These were issues upon which the TAA focused. In 1953 Julius Nyerere became the leader of the TAA and the movement towards independence developed momentum. In July 1954, at a meeting of all political elements, the Tanganyika African National Union (TANU) was created with the slogan Uhuru na Umoja (Freedom and Unity).

There were two major strengths to this movement in comparison to other similar movements in other parts of Africa. Firstly, there was no dominating tribal group, and secondly, Swahili had developed into the major language, encouraged by German colonial policy, and this served as an important unifying force. A further point of relevance in the run-up to independence was that after the Second World War Tanganyika was given UN Trustee status in place of the mandate. Both the mandatory system and the trusteeship system were very important because they meant that controversial issues could be referred to the UN Council, unlike in other colonial territories. In December 1956 Nyerere addressed the UN General Assembly’s Fourth (Trusteeship) Committee, which gave him a platform to present the views of Tanganyikans to the outside world.

The first Europeans in this part of Africa (since Vasco da Gama) were missionaries and explorers. In 1844 John Krapf, a German working for the Church Missionary Society of London, arrived in Zanzibar. He was joined by John Rebmann who was to become the first European to set eyes on Mount Kilimanjaro in 1848. The two British explorers Burton and Speke, sent by the Royal Geographical Society, arrived in Zanzibar in 1856 and journeyed along the caravan routes into the interior. In 1858 Speke came across the huge expanse of water, which he named Lake Victoria. Dr Livingstone was perhaps the most celebrated of all the missionaries, being found, after no news of him for several years, by HM Stanley, a newspaper reporter .

By the 1880s considerable numbers of Europeans were arriving in East Africa as missionaries, big game hunters, traders and adventurers. Some had political ambitions, including two Germans, Carl Peters and HH Johnson, who wanted to see this part of Africa under the control of Germany. They formed the Society for German Colonization from which emerged the German East Africa Society. Emissaries of the Society signed ‘protective treaties’ with unsuspecting and often illiterate chiefs from the interior. These so-called treaties of friendship were then used by the German East Africa Company to exploit the areas that they covered with the apparent agreement of local authorities.

There were a number of phases of German colonial rule. The first, around the turn of the century, saw attempts at establishing a settler economy. This was to be based in the north highlands and agriculture was to be the mainstay of the economy. It was initially not a great success. Revolts occurred in Bagamoyo, Pangani and Tanga, which were all crushed. The best-known uprising was the Maji Maji rebellion, which occurred in the south of the country from 1905 to 1906 . Discontent was initially aroused over a cotton scheme that benefited the Africans little although they were obliged to provide all the manual labour. The uprising was unique in eastern Africa for it was cross-tribal and included a large area – almost the whole of the country south of Dar es Salaam.

Caravan routes into the interior developed in the 19th century and trade centres developed at places such as Ujiji and Tabora. Humans and ivory were exchanged for guns, beads and cloth. The slaves were largely obtained by bartering with the local chiefs rather than by force. Some of the more militarized tribes raided their neighbours and ‘prisoners of war’ were then sold on to the Arabs as slaves. Convicted criminals were often sold as slaves and this penalty was sometimes extended to include their families.

The size of the slave trade remains a matter of speculation. However, it has been estimated that approximately 1,500,000 slaves from the interior reached the coast and 10 times that number died en route. Bagamoyo was a terminus of the trade and from there they were taken to Zanzibar, which developed into an important trading centre. The slaves were either put to work in the plantations of Pemba and Zanzibar or were shipped to the Middle East.

Ujamaa, a programme for advancement in the rural areas, was an important element in post-independence Tanzanian philosophy. Intended to involve the voluntary movement of people into villages, its major objective was to raise output through collectivization and large-scale agricultural production. Emphasis was also on the social benefits – the provision of services such as piped water, electricity, schools and clinics. Self-reliance was the key and the villages were meant to be set up and run by the villagers themselves.

There were three phases of villagization in the decade from 1967. The first was voluntary movement on a locally selective basis combined with compulsory movement in Rufiji and Handeni, which were areas worst affected by drought and flood. From 1970 to 1973 this was replaced by a ‘frontal approach’ whereby incentives were given for people to move to villages, which included financial and technical assistance. The reluctance of people to move of their own accord meant the targets were not reached and after 1973 these methods were replaced by the use of force in support of rapid villagization. The results were dramatic. In 1970 the villagized population stood at about 500,000, or less than 5% of the population. After the first year of compulsory movement Nyerere claimed that there were over 9 million people – or about 60% of the mainland population, living in villages. Force was justified on the grounds that people could not always see what was best for them and had to be shown the way. As it is easier to provide amenities such as piped water and electricity to people grouped in villages, the Ujamaa did provide some benefits.

The Chagga (or Chaga) are found around the south slopes of Mount Kilimanjaro and around Moshi and constitute the third largest group in Tanzania. They are greatly advantaged by living in a fertile and well-watered region, which is ideally suited to the production of coffee. They were also one of the first groups to be affected by the Christian missionaries, in particular the Roman Catholics and Lutherans, and this meant that the initial provision of education in the area was ahead of many other areas. The high level of education and opportunity of cash-cropping have resulted in a comparatively high level of income, and also a relatively high level of involvement in community activity. One example of the form that this has taken is through cooperative action in the production and marketing of coffee.

In 2008 adult literacy was estimated at around 78%. In 2001, 500 more primary schools were built and primary school fees were abolished to encourage enrolment, which has risen from 58% in 2000 to 96% in 2008. Secondary education in Tanzania has recently significantly improved since 2005 as 1500 new secondary schools have been built (there were only 595 in 2000) and the government has recruited 6000 more teachers, including bringing many out of retirement. This has been part of the five-year Secondary Education Development Programme (SEDP), and the government has placed a high priority on education as a means to reduce poverty. As a result, enrolment to secondary schools has risen from just 7% in 2005 to 49% in 2009. Tertiary education enrolment rates are 1.8%, slightly lower than Kenya, though again reforms in 2000 increased the number of accredited universities and places of higher education from four to 19, and there’s presently a new government university being built in Dodoma.

Ideally, you should see your GP or travel clinic at least 6 weeks before your departure for general advice on travel risks, antibiotics for travellers’ bacterial diarrhoea, malaria and vaccinations. Make sure you have travel insurance, The Flying Doctors based at Wilson Airport in Nairobi cover Tanzania); get a dental check (especially if you are going to be away for more than a month); know your own blood group; and if you suffer a long-term condition such as diabetes or epilepsy make sure someone knows or that you have a Medic Alert bracelet/necklace with this information on it.

http://www.bloodcare.org.uk The Blood Care Foundation (UK) will dispatch certified non-infected blood of the right type to your hospital/clinic.

http://www.btha.org British Travel Health Association (UK). This is the official website of an organization of travel health professionals.

http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk Fit for Travel (UK). A-Z of vaccine and travel health advice requirements for each country.

http://www.fco.gov.uk Foreign and Common- wealth Office (FCO). This is a key travel advice site, with useful information on the country,

people and climate and lists of the UK embassies/consulates.

http://www.masta.org Medical Advisory Service for Travellers Abroad (MASTA). A-Z of vaccine and travel health advice and requirements.

http://www.medicalert.co.uk Medic Alert. Produces bracelets and necklaces for those with existing medical problems, where key medical details are engraved, so that if you collapse, a medical person can identify you.

http://www.travelscreening.co.uk Travel Screening Services. A private clinic that gives vaccine and travel health advice.

African Wildlife Safaris, T(0)3-9249 3777, http://www.africanwildlifesafaris.com.au.

Classic Safari Company, T1300-130218, T(0)2-9327 0666, www.classicsafari company.com.au.

Djoser Travel, T(0)21-920 1580, http://www.djoser.de.

A & E Reiseteam, T(0) 40-2787 8870, http://www.ae-reiseteam.de.

Adventure Centre, T0800-228 8747, T151- 0654 1879, http://www.adventure-centre.com.

Africa Adventure Company, T0800-882 9453, T954-491 8877, http://www.africa-adventure.com.

Bushtracks, T1707-433 4492, http://www.bushtracks.com.

Africa Travel Co, T021-385 1390, http://www.africatravelco.com.

Pulse Africa, T011-325 2290, http://www.pulseafrica.com.

Rainbow Tours, T020-7226 1004, http://www.rainbowtours.co.uk.

Aardvark Safaris, T01980-849160, http://www.aardvarksafaris.com.

Abercrombie & Kent, T0800-554 7016, http://www.abercrombiekent.com.

Acacia Adventure Holidays, T020-7706 4700, http://www.acacia-africa.com.

Africa Travel Centre, 3rd floor, New Premier House, 150 Southampton Row, Bloomsbury, London WC1B 5AL, T0845-450 1520, http://www.africatravel.co.uk.

Africa Travel Resource, T01306-880770, http://www.africatravelresource.com.

Aim 4 Africa, 21-23 Chelsea Rd, Sheffield S11 9BQ, T0114-255 2533, http://www.aim4africa.com.

Audley Travel Ltd, T01993-838500, http://www.audleytravel.com.

Expert Africa, 9-10 Upper Sq, Old Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 7BJ, T020-8232 9777, http://www.expertafrica.com.

Footprint Adventures, T01522-804929, http://www.footprint-adventures.co.uk.

Global Village, 102 Islington High St, London N1 8EG, T0844-844 2541, http://www.globalvillage-travel.com.

Odyssey World, T0845-370 7733, http://www.odyssey-world.co.uk.

Safari Consultants, T01787-888590, http://www.safari-consultants.co.uk.

Safari Drive, Windy Hollow, Sheepdrove, Lambourn, Berkshire RH17 7XA, T01488- 71140, http://www.safaridrive.com.

Somak, T020-8423 3000, http://www.somak.co.uk.

Steppes Travel, T01285-880980, http://www.steppestravel.co.uk.

Tanzania Odyssey, 1 Swan Mews, Fulham, London SW6 4QT, T020-7471 8780, http://www.tanzaniaodyssey.com. Tailor-made safaris to Tanzania and beach extensions to Zanzibar and other Indian Ocean islands.

Tim Best Travel, T020-7591 0300, http://www.timbesttravel.com.

http://www.absolutetanzania.com Tourist information with interesting articles about the economy, government and conservation.

http://www.africaonline.com Comprehensive website covering news, sport and travel all over Africa.

http://www.marineparktz.com Website for Tanzania’s Marine Parks and Reserves Authority who manage the Mafia Island Marine Park and smaller reserves off Dar es Salaam.

http://www.go2africa.com Full accommodation and safari booking service for East Africa, with useful practical information.

http://www.pemba.net One of the few online recourses of information on Pemba.

http://www.overlandafrica.com Sells a variety of overland tours throughout East Africa.

http://www.tfcg.org The website for the Tanzania Forest Conservation Group, with more information on the mountains and forests in the region.

http://www.zanzibar.net Good general infor- mation about Zanzibar including history and culture.

These are cheap at around US$0.40 for any journey. The front of the vehicle usually has two destinations painted on the bonnet or a sign stating its destination, and sometimes another stating the fare. The main terminals in town are at the Central Railway Station (Stesheni) and the New Post Office (Posta) on Azikiwe Street. From both, if there are not enough passengers, the dala-dala will also make a detour to the Old Post Office on Sokoine Drive to pick up more people.

Julius Nyerere International Airport (T022-284 4212, http://www.jnia.aero) is in Kipawa, 13 km or a half an hour’s drive southwest of Dar es Salaam along Nyerere Road. There are foreign exchange bureaux, one bank, two ATMs, car hire facilities, a post office, duty free shop and a bar and restaurant. Flight information is virtually impossible to obtain by telephone at the airport, contact the airline directly. Airline offices are listed under Dar es Salaam, page , and Arusha, page . Phone cards are available from shops at the airport and cost US$4. There are public telephones in the terminal buildings. Some of the more upmarket hotels can arrange a shuttle service to and from the airport, which must be booked in advance. There are private buses (dala-dala), which cost about US$1 but are very crowded and it’s a five minute walk out to Nyerere Road to catch one, which is a hassle with luggage. A taxi to town will cost US$25-35 depending on your destination and traffic conditions. Check with the information desk in the airport what you should be paying, before negotiating with a taxi driver. If you are going directly to Zanzibar, you can either enquire at the airport about the next flight, or it takes about 30 minutes to drive from the airport to the ferry terminal in the city.

Kilimanjaro International Airport (T027-255 4252, http://www.kilimanjaroairport.co.tz) is halfway between Arusha and Moshi, about 40 km from each. Facilities include shops, a post office and a bar and restaurant. Take a taxi between the airport and Moshi or Arusha, which should cost around US$40-50, or arrange for your hotel or lodge or one of the tour operators to meet you. Alternatively, arrange a shuttle .

Flight Centre, T133-133 (Australia), http://www.flightcentre.com.au.

Skylinks, T02-923 4277, http://www.skylink.com.au.

STA Travel, T134-782 (Australia), http://www.statravel.com.au, T0800-474400, http://www.statravel.com.nz

Air Brokers International, T01-800 883 3273, http://www.airbrokers.com.

STA Travel, T1800-781 4040, http://www.statravel.com.

Flightbookers, T0871-223 5000, http://www.ebookers.com.

Flight Centre, T0870-499 9931, http://www.flightcentre.co.uk.

STA Travel, T0871-2300 0040, http://www.statravel.co.uk.

Trailfinders, T0845-058 5858, http://www.trailfinders.com.