Knysna travel guide

Knysna (the ‘K’ is silent) is the self-proclaimed heart of the Garden Route. It is no longer the sleepy lagoon-side village it once was – far from it – but is nevertheless a pleasant spot to spend a day or two. The town itself is fully geared up for tourists, which means a lot of choice in accommodation and restaurants, as well as overcrowding and high prices. It remains quite an arty place, though, and many of the craftspeople who have gravitated to the region display their products in craft shops and galleries. Nevertheless, development is booming, with a slick waterfront complex, complete with souvenir shops and fast-food outlets, setting the pace. If you’re trying to choose between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay as a base, Knysna offers more amenities and activities, while Plett is far more relaxed and has the better beach. Both get very busy during high season.

Knysna’s highlights are its natural attractions. The main feature of the town is the lagoon, around which much of Knysna life revolves. The Heads, the rocky promontories that lead from the lagoon to the open sea, are quite stunning. The Knysna National Lakes, over 15,000 ha of protected area, are also wonderful to explore, comprising islands, seashore and beach. This fragile ecosystem is bound to suffer from the ever-expanding tourist industry; of particular concern is the rich variety of aquatic life in the lagoon. This has not been helped by the construction of large retirement residential suburbs, such as Belvidere Estate, Thesen Island and Leisure Island – the latter two should never have been built upon. One of the striking features of Knysna is the location of the sprawling township, which is at the top of the hills above the town. From a boat trip on the lagoon you can look back at the town; all the sleek modern and luxurious development in the foreground and, quite by contrast, the tight cluster of shacks at the very top of the hill.