San Cipriano travel guide

If the expression ‘the journey is the destination’ had been coined about one specific place then San Cipriano, 20 km before Buenaventura, would be it. Sat in steaming jungle next to a shallow river, San Cipriano is only accessible by the main railway line between Cali and Buenaventura, which only carries cargo. To compensate for the lack of roads to their village the locals have come up with an ingenious transport system to ferry people to and fro. Passage on one of these improvised rail carts is US$2.20. Beware of young boys trying to charge you more.

On arrival at the village you will have to pay US$1 at the Fundación San Cipriano office to enter the reserve. Enquire here about guides for walks in the forest, including one to a waterfall, La Cascada Veinteadora. Most houses near the river hire out inflatable rubber rings for floating down the river, US$2.70.

The village and its environs were declared a national reserve in 1979, and Fundación San Cipriano has 8564 ha of protected forest, through which runs the San Cipriano river. It is noted for the rich variety of animal life which can be seen and heard, which includes spectacled bears, spider monkeys, toucans and several varieties of hummingbird.

San Cipriano was founded in the 18th century as a base for hunting, tree felling and gold panning. Today, most people live off tourism or work at the local water works.