Colombia’s only important port on the Pacific is Buenaventura, 145 km by road from Cali over a pass in the Western Cordillera. The commercial centre is now entirely paved and has some impressive buildings, but the rest of the town is poor, with unpaved streets lined with wooden shacks. It is more expensive than Cali and it is difficult to eat cheaply or well. On a hill near the centre is the cathedral and a good view of the town can be seen from the nearby El Mirador Edificio del Café. There is a festive atmosphere every night. Warning This town is one of Colombia’s main drug- and people-trafficking centres and has severe poverty; this has led to high levels of violent crime and homicide. You are advised to avoid walking about at night and to stick within a couple of blocks of the seafront.
Buenaventura was founded in 1540, but not on its present site. It now stands on the island of Cascajal, 16 km at the end of the Bay of Buenaventura. The port handles 80% of Colombia’s coffee exports, and 60% of the nation’s total exports, including sugar and frozen shrimp. South of the town a swampy coast stretches as far as Tumaco . To the north lies the deeply jungled Chocó Department, with abundant wildlife and some good beaches.
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