South from Pereira and Armenia the Pan-American Highway drops to the hot, sugar-rich Valle del Cauca, a narrow strip of flat plains abundant in wheat, pineapple, livestock and sugar cane, flanked on either side by the slender fingers of two mountain ranges, the Cordillera Occidental and the Cordillera Central. The valley’s capital is at Cali, a sweltering, sexy city known for the beautiful women and as the self-appointed capital of salsa music. The road continues south onto Popayán and eventually to Ecuador, while from Cali a cargo-only railway and a road run west high over mountains down to the port of Buenaventura, the largest settlement on the Pacific coast.
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