Ibagué, capital of Tolima Department, lies at the foot of the Quindío mountains. Parts of the town are old: see the Colegio de San Simón and the market (good tamales). The Parque Centenario is pleasant and there is a famous Conservatory of Music. Try the local alcoholic drink called mistela.
Just outside, on the Armenia road, a dirt road leads up the Río Combeima to El Silencio and the slopes of the Nevado del Tolima, the southernmost Nevado in the Parque Nacional Los Nevados. The climb to the summit (5221 m) takes two to three days’, camping at least one night over 4000 m, ice equipment necessary. For safety reasons, it is recommended to visit the Nevado del Tolima only from Ibagué and not Manizales. A lechero (milk truck) leaves Ibagué marketplace for El Silencio between 0630 and 0730, US$2.50, two hours. A guide in Ibagué is Maklin Muñoz (Cra 1, No 5-24, T2615865, T3006756216 (mob)) .
Quindío Pass, 3350 m (known as La Línea after the power lines that cross the mountains) is on the Armenia to Ibagué road (105 km), across the Cordillera Central. On the east side of the Pass is Cajamarca, a friendly town in a beautiful setting at 1900 m. There’s accommodation at Residencia Central ($) and Nevado, both on same street. Bar El Globo is on the corner of the main plaza serves excellent coffee. Interesting market on Sunday.
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