Rio de Janeiro travel guide

Rio has one of the healthiest climates in the tropics, with trade winds keeping the air fresh. June, July and August are the coolest months, with temperatures ranging from 22°C (18°C in a cold spell) to 32°C on a sunny day at noon. December to March is hot and humid, with temperatures of 32-42°C. October to March is the rainy season; the annual rainfall is about 1120 mm. Carnaval is a movable feast, running for five riotous days from the Friday afternoon before Shrove Tuesday to the morning hangover of Ash Wednesday.

Carnaval

The Sambódromo parades start at 1900 and last about 12 hrs. Gates open at 1800. There are cadeiras (seats) at ground level, arquibancadas (terraces) and camarotes (boxes). The best boxes are reserved for tourists and VIPs and are very expensive or by invitation only. Seats are closest to the parade, but you may have to fight your way to the front. Sectors 4, 7 and 11 are the best spots (they house the judging points); 6 and 13 are least favoured (being at the end when dancers might be tired) but have more space. The terraces, while uncomfortable, house the most fervent fans and are tightly packed; this is the best place to soak up the atmosphere but it’s too crowded to take pictures. Tickets start at US$40 for arquibancadas and are sold at travel agencies as well as the Maracanã Stadium box office . Tickets should be bought as far as possible in advance; they are usually sold out before Carnaval weekend but touts outside can often sell you tickets at inflated prices. Samba schools have an allocation of tickets which members sometimes sell, if you are offered one of these check the date. Tickets for the champions’ parade on the Sat following Carnaval are much cheaper. Many tour companies offer Rio trips including Carnaval, but tickets are at inflated prices.

Be sure to reserve accommodation well in advance. Virtually all hotels raise their prices during Carnaval, although it is usually possible to find a reasonably priced room. Your property should be safe inside the Sambódromo, but the crowds outside can attract pickpockets; as ever, don’t brandish your camera, and only take the money you need for fares and refreshments (food and drink are sold in the Sambódromo). It gets hot, so wear shorts and a T-shirt.

Most samba schools will accept a number of foreigners and you will be charged upwards of US$125 for your costume as your money helps to fund poorer members of the school. You should be in Rio for at least 2 weeks before Carnaval. It is essential to attend fittings and rehearsals on time, to show respect for your section leaders and to enter into the competitive spirit of the event. For those with the energy and the dedication, it will be an unforgettable experience.

Ensaios are held at the schools’ quadras from Oct onwards and are well worth seeing. It is wise to go by taxi, as most schools are based in poorer districts.

Tour agents sell tickets for glitzy samba shows, which are nothing like the real thing. When buying a Carnaval DVD, make sure the format is compatible (NTSC for USA or most of Europe; PAL for the UK, region 4).

Samba schools hold parties throughout the year, especially at the weekends. These are well worth visiting. See websites for details.

Carnaval

Taxis to the Sambódromo are negotiable and will find your gate, the nearest metrô is Praça Onze and this can be an enjoyable ride in the company of costumed samba school members. You can follow the participants to the concentração, the assembly and formation on Av Presidente Vargas, and mingle with them while they queue to enter the Sambódromo. Ask if you can take photos.

Carnaval week comprises an enormous range of official and unofficial contests and events, which reach a peak on the Tue. Riotur’s guide booklet and website gives concise information on these in English. The entertainment sections of newspapers and magazines such as O Globo, Jornal do Brasil, Manchete and Veja Rio are worth checking. Felipe Ferreira’s guide to the Rio Carnaval, Liga Independente das Escolas de Samba do Rio de Janeiro, http://www.liesa.com.br, has good explanations of the competition, rules, the schools, a map and other practical details.

The city is made up of separate districts connected by urban highways and tunnels heavy with traffic, so it’s best to use public transport or taxis to get around. An underground railway, the Metrô (T0800-2595 1111, http://www.metrorio.com.br, Mon-Sat 0500-2400, Sun and holidays 0700-2300 and 24 hrs during Carnaval) runs from the outer suburbs of the Zona Norte (not of tourist interest), through the city centre, Glória, Flamengo, Botafogo and as far south as Copacabana. The Metrô-Gávea and Metrô-Barra buses connect at the penultimate station – Siqueira Campos – for Ipanema, Leblon and Barra. Buses run to all parts, but should be treated with caution at night, when taxis are a better bet. Buses are usually marked with the destination and any going south of the centre will call at Copacabana and generally Ipanema/Leblon. Minivans run from Avenida Rio Branco in the centre as far south as Barra da Tijuca and have the destination written on the window. Taxis should always be booked through a hostel or hotel, or caught from a designated taxi posto; the name of the posto should be written in navy blue on the side of the taxi. Avoid freelance taxis hailed in the street or those without a taxi rank inscription. Santa Teresa is reached by tram which leaves from the Largo da Carioca, near the metrô station and the cathedral, passing over the Lapa viaduct and running along all the main streets in Santa Teresa and eventually reaching either Dois Irmãos or Paula Mattos at the far end of Santa Teresa .

Bus

International and interstate buses arrive at the Rodoviária Novo Rio (Av Francisco Bicalho 01 at Rodrigues Alves, Santo Cristo, , T021-3213 1800, http://www.novorio.com.br) . There is a Riotur information centre (T021-2263 4857, daily 0700- 1900) which can help with orientation and accommodation. Left luggage costs US$5. There are câmbios (cash only) and ATMs. From the rodoviária it is best to take a taxi to your hotel or to the nearest metrô station (Metrô Estácio); taxis can be booked at the booth on the ground floor. The metrô runs south as far as Copacabana (Metrô Cantagalo); for Ipanema and Leblon head to Metrô Siqueira Campos and take a taxi from there, or take bus marked ‘Metrô-Gávea’.
The local bus terminal is just outside the rodoviária: turn right as you leave and run the gauntlet of taxi drivers. The bus station attracts thieves, so exercise caution. The air- conditioned Real bus (opposite the exit) goes along the beach to São Conrado and will secure luggage. If you need a taxi collect a ticket from the office inside the entrance as this protects against over-charging; a taxi to Flamengo costs approximately US$10.

There is a movie called "Central Station" filmed in Rio de Janiero.

Advertisements in the classified sections of dailies O Globo and Jornal do Brasil proffer apartments for rent and other such services. Both have entertainments pages too; O Globo has a travel section on Thursday; the Jornal do Brasil’s Programa on Friday is an essential ‘what’s-on’ magazine. Even better is the Rio supplement to Veja, a weekly news magazine. Caro Amigos, http://carosamigos.terra.com.br, is Brazil’s most influential centre-left magazine.

Trilhas do Rio, by Pedro da Cunha e Menezes (Editora Salamandra, second edition), US$22.50, describes walking trips around Rio. For a light-hearted approach to living in Rio, see How to be a Carioca, by Priscilla Ann Goslin. Danusia Barbara’s Restaurantes do Rio (Senac Rio) is a widely respected gastronomic guide. Casa da Palavra publishes a series of architectural guides to Rio, Guia da Arquitetura, in Portuguese and English. Many hotels provide guests with a useful free tourist booklet, Guia do Rio, which is published quarterly and has the most up-to-date listings.