This tacky mountain resort between Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, 1628 m high in the Serra da Mantiqueira, is full of very ugly mock-Alpine hotels set in denuded hills. Although it is popular with Paulistanos there is little reason to come here except perhaps for the classical music and dance festivals in June and July. Walking is far better in Itatiaia or Visconde de Mauá. The tourist office (T011-3664 3525, http://www.camposdojordao.tur.br) is in the alpine-looking gateway to the city, the Portal da Cidade. There are plenty of hotels and restaurants on and around the main street and banks with ATMs and money-changing services. Regular buses run to and from São Paulo.
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