A few kilometres along the plateau rim, Canela has been spared the plastic makeover of its neighbour and offers more affordable sleeping and eating options. The painted wooden buildings provide a certain downtown charm. Canela is surrounded by good parks and is developing as a centre of adventure tourism, with rafting, abseiling and trekking on offer. There’s a tourist office (Laga da Fama 227, T054-3282 2200, http://www.canelaturismo.com.br) .
Just outside Canela is the Mundo à Vapor (RS 235, Rodovia Canela–Gramado T054- 3282 1115, daily 0915-1700, US$5) an interesting museum dedicated to steam power. The main attraction is the dramatic reconstruction of the famous 1895 rail disaster in Montparnasse, Paris. Kids and adults clamour to have their picture taken alongside a giant steam train that appears to have burst through the front of the building.
Canela is surrounded by beautiful parks, including Parque Caracol (T054-3278 3035, 0830-1800, US$4.50) . Here, you’ll find the Rio Caracol, a spectacular 130-m-high waterfall, which emerges from thick forest and tumbles like dry ice from an overhanging elliptical escarpment. Just outside the park is Parque do Teleférico (http://www.canelatelerifico.com.br) where you can take a 20-minute ski lift ride over the trees, canyons and falls (US$10). The falls are east-facing, so photography is best before noon. A 927-step metal staircase leads to the plunge pool. If cycling, there is an 18-km circular route continuing on to Parque Ferradura (along a 4-km spur), where there is a good view into the canyon of the Rio Cai. From the Ferradura junction, turn right to continue to the national forest Floresta Nacional (T054-3282 2608, 0800-1700, free) run by Ibama, with woodland walks. From here, the dirt road continues round to Canela. Another good hike or bike option is the 4-km dirt track southeast of Canela past Parque das Sequóias to Morro Pelado. At over 600 m, there are spectacular views from the rim edge.
Army maps (1:50,000) are available from military posts in Caxias do Sul and Porto Alegre. The urban department in Canela’s prefeitura municipal, Rua Dona Carlinda, and the environmental lodge in Parque Estadual do Caracol have copies available for viewing only....
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