Jericoacoara is another of the northeast’s paradise beaches that is getting spoilt. Up until the 1980s it was a magical place: a collection of little fishermen’s shacks lost under towering dunes and surrounded by wonderful long, sweeping beaches. São Paulo middle-class hippies used to live here for months, surfing, dancing forró and smoking copious amounts of weed. Slowly Jeri began to grow. Then buggies began to race up and down the dunes – including the most delicate, those with fixed vegetation – and local villages started to become tourist attractions. In the 1980s, the Italians discovered Jeri and building began, much of it with little or no environmental considerations; buggies whizzed up and down from dawn to dusk like a plague of motorized flies. Today, few properties or tourism businesses are locally owned and the fishermen and their families are being sidelined and priced out of town.
That said, Jeri remains beautiful and it has a long way to go before it becomes as spoilt as Morro de São Paulo or even Cumbuco. If careful choices are made by tourists (such as supporting local businesses, trying to speak Portuguese, participating in Brazilian culture and avoiding buggy tours and large European-run beachfront resorts), it could turn itself into an inspiring sustainable, small-scale resort . The nearby beaches offer superb conditions for kitesurfing and windsurfing – both practices that do little to damage the environment – and there is excellent walking and cycling along the long flat beaches to beauty spots like the crumbling chocolate-coloured rock arch at Pedra Furada. Sandboarding is popular and watching the sunset from the top of the large dune just west of town, followed by a display of capoeira on the beach, is a tradition among visitors.
Northeastern Brazilian and Bahian cooking from owners from São Paulo and Rio Grande do Norte, inc...
Jijoca de Jericoacoara information
Ins and outs
There are two direct buses a day from Fortaleza to Jijoca from where jardineiras (Toyota pick-ups) do the 45-minute transfer to Jeri. Be sure to take a VIP or executivo as the journey takes five to six hours (seven to eight hours on other buses). It is far more comfortable to take an air-conditioned mini-van; these can be organized through pousadas in Jeri. Hotels and tour operators run two- to three-day tours from from Fortaleza. If not on a tour, ‘guides’ will besiege new arrivals in Jijoca with offers of buggies, or guiding cars through the tracks and dunes to Jeri for US$5.55. If you don’t want to do this, ask if a pickup is going or contact Francisco Nascimento (O Chicão, at Posta do Dê, or T088-3669 1356) who charges US$3.70 per person for the 22-km journey (30 minutes). There are connections with the rest of the state through Sobral. Arrivals from Maranhão and Piauí come via Parnaíba and Camocim. There are no banks in town; most pousadas and restaurants accept Visa but it is wise to bring plenty of cash in reais.
Jericoacoara ist einer der schönsten Strände Brasiliens, laut Washington Post sogar einer der zehn schönsten der Welt. Jeri, wie es auch genannt wird, ist ein Natur- und Surfparadies. Einer der besten Plätze zum Verweilen ist das Hotel Villa Terra Viva. Super Aussicht aufs Meer, cooler Pool und vernünftige Preise. Infos unter: www.jericoacoara.ch