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Other towns in the chapada

There is simple accommodation and a handful of tour operators in Palmeiras, some 55 km west of Lençóis. The town makes a far quieter alternative base for exploring the chapada. Combis run sporadically between Palmeiras and Lençóis. Mucugê town in the far south, 134 km from Lençóis is sleepier still, and has a fascinating white-wash cemetery filled with elaborate mausoleums and set against the dark granite of the hillside. There are bus connections with Lençóis and Feira de Santana. The adjacent Parque Municipal de Mucugê was set-up to protect the sempre viva or chuveirinho plant – a beautiful globe of white flowers whose popularity with flower arrangers in Brazil almost led to their extinction in the late 20th century. Igatu has a population of approximately 350 people, some of them live in the largely abandoned stone houses built into or around Cyclopean boulders that dot the landscape. Wandering around the village and the ruins is a haunting experience. There are two pousadas in the village.

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