Iruya travel guide

To reach Iruya, a rough ripio road 25 km north of Humahuaca runs northeast from the Ruta Nacional 9, 8 km to Iturbe (also called Hipólito Irigoyen). The bus stops here for five minutes, giving you a chance to glimpse captivating rural life and perhaps buy a woven hat from women waiting by the bus stop. There are no facilities. The road then crosses the broad river (manageable in an ordinary car only if it hasn’t rained heavily) and climbs up over the 4000 m pass, Abra del Cóndor, where you have panoramic views, before dropping steeply, around an amazing slalom of many hairpin bends, into the Quebrada de Iruya.

Iruya is an idyllic small hamlet tucked into a steep hillside, remote and hidden away, but full of warm and friendly inhabitants. In recent years, its character has started to change due to the influx of wealthier tourists staying at the hostería at the top of the town.

The village still retains its festivals, with a colourful Rosario festival on the first Sunday in October, and lively Easter festivities, when accommodation is booked up in advance. It’s worth spending a few days here to lap up the tranquil atmosphere, and to go horse riding or walking in the beautiful valleys nearby. The hike to the even more remote hamlet of San Isidro (seven hours return) is unforgettable. At Titiconte, 4 km away, there are some unrestored pre-Inca ruins, though you’ll need to take a guide to find them. Iruya has no ATM or tourist information, but has a locutorio and food shops. Wander up the tiny narrow main street to find a post office, a shop selling wonderful herbal teas of all kinds and dried peaches from a local co-operative, and another selling superb woven and knitted goods. Not to be missed.