Cafayate (1660 m) is beautifully situated in a broad stretch of the valley at the confluence of the Santa María and Calchaquí rivers. There are mountains on all sides, and the valley is filled with vineyards, which have long produced wine to rival Mendoza in quality, if not in quantity. There’s lots of accommodation and one exquisite place to stay, Patios de Cafayate (http://www.patiosdecafayate.com) making this a good base for exploring the dramatic scenery all around or just relaxing for a couple of days, though the centre might be a little too touristy for those who like to get off the beaten track. Cafayate has long been a popular excursion destination for visits to the handful of bodegas which open their doors to tourists, with free tours and tastings for you to try their produce. There are superb red grapes grown at high altitude here, and it’s worth asking specifically to try the white torrontes grape, which is grown in few places other than Argentina, and flourishes in the annual 350 days of sunshine, and the cool nights.
There are several buses daily from Salta along the fast Route Nacional 68, and it’s an easy drive in a hire car, though the road is winding for the last 30 km as you enter the amazing rock formations of the Quebrada de las Conchas. Alternatively, and even more scenic, is the Ruta 40 via Cachi and the Valles Calchaquíes but the road is rough ripio and there’s only one bus a week between Molinos and Angastaco. There are many excursions on offer from Salta to Cafayate US$32, including lunch and visit to a bodega, with brief stops to see the strange rock formations in the Quebrada de las Conchas. But these make for a long day, and you’ll miss the chance to walk around the region. Cafayate is easy to get around on foot, with restaurants and shops located around the main plaza, but you’ll need transport to reach many of the bodegas further out. Find a taxi on the plaza.
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