Cachi travel guide

Cachi is a beautiful, tranquil town (180 km from Salta) in a wide green valley at the foot of the majestic Nevado del Cachi, whose nine peaks are snow-covered for much of the year, and whose highest summit is San Martín (6380 m). Founded in 1694, it had been a Diaguita settlement long before the Incas arrived in 1450, and the extensive irrigation channels they built to channel the Nevado’s snowmelt are still used today to make the valley so green and to grow huge fields of peppers. These are an amazing sight when harvested in April and laid out to dry in huge scarlet squares, which stand out against the arid mountains beyond. The tourist office (on the plaza, opposite side to the church, Av Gral, Güemes s/n, T03868-491053, http://www.cachi.todowebsalta.com.ar, daily 0900-1200, 1500-2000) can provide a basic leaflet and map. No one speaks English, but they are well meaning and will give advice if you’re patient. A private tourist office has opened, Casa de Turismo de Cachi (by the entrance to the town on the left) . Local guide Susana can be found here, and they sell crafts.

Cachi has a pleasingly simple church, the Iglesia de San José, whose roof and lecterns are made of cactus wood. Next door, there’s a fascinating survey of pre-colonial Calchaquí culture in the Museo Arqueológico (T03868-491080, Mon-Fri 0900-1800, Sat-Sun 1000-1300, US$1) with impressive painted funerary urns and an intriguing cat/man petroglyph. With its sunny climate, Cachi is the perfect place for a few days’ rest, but there are satisfying walks into the mountains to see extraordinary pre-Inca ruins, and there are panoramic views from its spectacularly sited hill-top cemetery, just 20 minutes’ walk from the plaza.

The town feels more like a small village and has a lively community life, with fiestas throughout the year, where you can hear traditional folclore music as well as the bagualas, and coplas coming from the indigenous traditions. The Fiesta de la Tradición Calchaquí, held in the third week in January, and the Carnaval in February, are particularly worth experiencing. Pachamama is celebrated in August. Cachi has the special advantage of being one of the few original towns in the region with trained local guides: Susana, Santiago and Hilda lead fascinating tours around Cachi and the surrounding areas. Don’t miss Las Pailas archaeological site, and Cerro de la Virgen makes a satisfying day’s hike. Serious climbers should plan to spend a week or so to climb the spectacular Nevado de Cachi.

Cachi has a great tradition in weaving, and you can buy beautiful handmade ponchos, shawls, rugs and wall hangings at the government run handicrafts shop in the same room as the tourist office on the plaza. But these are more expensive than if bought directly from weavers, and they receive hardly any of the profit. Instead, go up the street, and find the workshop of Oscar Cardozo (Juan Calchaquí, opposite the monument, T03868-491037) . Oscar teaches weaving and can direct you to other weavers in his association. There’s an ATM, restaurants and cafés on the plaza at Güemes and Ruiz de los Lanos....read more