Situated 186 km southwest of San Rafael in reach of really spectacular unspoilt landscapes, Malargüe (1426 m) is slowly developing as a centre for hiking and horse riding. It promotes itself rather grandly as the national centre for adventure tourism with a few good hostels. However, it’s certainly a cheap alternative to Las Leñas in the ski season when there are frequent minibus services between the two and there is a 50% reduction on your ski pass if you stay in a hotel in Malargüe. However the best time to come is from spring to autumn, when you can make the most of the landscape for walking and riding. The Fiesta Nacional del Chivo (locally produced kid, a local delicacy) is held in the first fortnight of January, with live music and partying, attracting national folclore stars, as well as Chilean performers and public from across the Andes.
The bus terminal is at Aldao y Beltrán, The airport (T02627-471600) is on southern edge of town. Malargüe has a broad main street, San Martín, with an assortment of small shops, locutorios, cafés and the odd run-down hotel, but the best accommodation is in the outskirts, north of the centre. On the way into town from the north, there’s an impressive modern conference centre on the right, built for conventions of the nearby Philip Auger Observatory of Cosmic Rays, but mostly used for showing films. It has a smart bar. Next to it is the helpful tourist office (T02627-471659, daily 0800-2300, www.malargue. gov.ar) which can arrange for you to visit the nearby provincial parks.
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