San Antonio de Areco travel guide

San Antonio de Areco, 113 km northwest of Buenos Aires, is the original gaucho town and makes a perfect escape from the capital. Built in the late 19th century, much of its charm lies in the authenticity of its crumbling buildings surrounding an atmospheric plaza filled with palms and plane trees, and the streets lined with orange trees. The attractive costanera along the riverbank is a great place to swim and picnic. There are several estancias nearby, and the town itself has several historical boliches (combined bar and provisions stores), where you can lap up the atmosphere, listen to live music and meet locals. Gaucho traditions are on display in the many weekend activities, and the town’s craftsmen produce wonderful silver work, textiles and traditional worked leather handicrafts of the highest quality. Annual events include the pato games in January, a poncho parade in February and the Fiesta Criolla in March. Most important of all, however, is the Day of Tradition, in the second week of November (book accommodation in advance). The tourist information centre (Parque San Martín, Zerboni and Arellano, T02326-453165, http://www.sanantoniodeareco.com) has friendly, helpful, English-speaking staff who can advise on gaucho activities in the town, as well as accommodation and transport. Other useful websites include http://www.pagosdeareco.com.ar, and http://www.arecotur.com.ar.

The Museo Gauchesco Ricardo Güiraldes (Camino Güiraldes, Wed-Mon 1100-1700, US$0.70) is a replica of a typical estancia of the late 19th century, and houses impressive gaucho artefacts and displays on the life of the writer who was a sophisticated member of Parisian literary circles, and an Argentine nationalist who romanticized gaucho life. Güiraldes spent much of his early life on Estancia La Porteña, 8 km from San Antonio, and settled there to write his best-known book, Don Segundo Sombra (1926), which was set in San Antonio. The estancia and sights in the town such as the old bridge and the Pulpería La Blanqueada (at the entrance to the museum), became famous through its pages.

Superb gaucho silverwork is for sale at the workshop and Museo de Juan José Draghi (Alvear 345, T02326-454219, daily 0900-2000) . Excellent chocolates are made at La Olla de Cobre (Matheu 433, T02326-453105) with a charming little café for drinking chocolate and trying the most amazing home-made alfajores. There is a large park, Parque San Martín, spanning the river to the north of the town near the tourist information centre. While you’re here, you should visit one of the old traditional bars, or pulperías, many of which have been lovingly restored to recreate the 1900s ambience, and are brought to life by a genuine local clientele every night. Try La Vieja Sodería, on General Paz and Bolívar, or El Almacén de Ramos Generales Parrilla, at Zapiola 143. Two blocks west of here, there’s a small zoo, Parque de Flora y Fauna Carlos Merti (opposite the old bridge Puente Viejo, daily 1000-1300, 1700-1900 in summer, daily 1000-1700 in winter, US$1) . Also at Alsina 66 is the city museum, Centro Cultural and Museo Usina Vieja (Tue-Fri 0800-1400, Sat-Sun and holidays 1100-1700, free.) There are ATMs on the plaza, but nowhere to change traveller’s cheques. At the country club you can play golf (green fees US$9) or watch a polo match in restful surroundings, ask at the tourist office for directions.

Some of the province’s finest estancias are within easy reach of San Antonio for day visits, offering an asado lunch, horse riding and other activities. One such place is La Cinacina (T02326-452045, http://www.lacinacina.com.ar) which charges US$50 per person for a day visit....read more