The two most desirable resorts on the coast are right next to each other, with the quieter old-fashioned Ostende in between . Both party-town Pinamar and forested Cariló are upmarket places to stay, attracting wealthy Argentines, and have far smarter hotels here than elsewhere on the coast, not to mention sophisticated bars, fine restaurants and in Pinamar, plenty of trendy beach bars and nightclubs. Pinamar is perfect for young people and families, with live bands playing at its beach clubs in the evenings in high season (these are also quiet and elegant places to dine with superb seafood).
Access to the beach is mostly by day membership to a balneario (beach club). You pay a fee of US$20 per family or group of friends per day, and then you can make use of all the balneario’s facilities. You can rent a carpa – little wooden beach huts, built in tightly packed rows perpendicular to the sea, and furnished with tables and chairs to use when you retreat from the hot sun. Alternatively, you can rent a big beach umbrella and stake a claim on an area closer to the sea. Renting either will allow you to use the balneario’s showers, toilets, restaurants and even beach games. Pinamar’s balnearios range from exclusive, quiet places with superb restaurants, to party spots with loud music, beach parties and live bands at night. There is free public access to the beach between the balnearios, but it’s worth visiting one for a day to enjoy beach life. Their restaurants are open to those not renting carpas too.
The town also has golf courses and tennis courts, and there are lots of hotels and smart restaurants along the main street, Avenida Bunge, running perpendicular to the sea. Explore the dunes at Reserva Dunícola, 13 km north, by horse or 4WD. The tourist office (Av Bunge 654, T02254-491680, http://www.pinamar.gov.ar, http://www.pinamarturismo.com.ar, English spoken) is helpful and can arrange accommodation. During the peak month of January, Pinamar is packed with Argentines, accommodation is extremely hard to get and very expensive. Best to visit in December or February/March. During the rest of the year, especially in June/July, the town virtually shuts down, and few hotels and restaurants are open. The bus terminal (Av Bunge and Intermédanos, T02254-403500) is near the access road into town, a 20-minute walk to the beach, and the railway station is a few kilometres from town, but there are free bus transfers....
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