The small modern town of El Chaltén is set in a wonderful position at the foot of Cerro Fitz Roy and at the mouth of the valley of the Río de las Vueltas. The village was founded very recently, in 1985, in order to settle the area and pre-empt Chilean territorial claims. However, it has grown very rapidly, along with its popularity as a centre for trekking and climbing in summer, and for cross-country skiing in winter. It can be expensive and not particularly attractive place, especially when the harsh wind blows. But its visitors create a cheerful atmosphere, there are some great bars and from its concrete and tin you can walk directly into breathtaking landscapes. Tourist infra- structure is still developing, and so far there are no ATMs or banks, so take sufficient cash. Accommodation is available and ranges from camping and hostels to not-quite-luxurious hosterías, and one top hotel, all overpriced in high season. Food is expensive too, though there is increasingly plenty of choice.
Walking here is only really viable mid-October to April, with the best months usually March to April when the weather is generally stable and not very cold, and the autumn colours of the beech forest are stunning. Mid-summer (December and January) and spring (September to October) are generally very windy. And in December and January the campsites can be full to bursting, with many walkers on the paths.
The quickest way to reach El Chaltén is on one of the frequent buses from El Calafate (about four hours).There are also daily buses to El Chaltén from Los Antiguos along Ruta 40, useful if you’ve crossed into Argentina from Chile Chico . El Chaltén can also be reached from Villa O’Higgins on the Carretera Austral in Chile . Access to the park is free and it is not necessary to register before you set out. Most paths are very clear and well worn but a map is essential, even on short walks: the park information centre has photocopied maps of treks but the best is one published by Zagier and Urruty, US$5, and is available in shops in El Calafate and El Chaltén.
The quickest way to reach the town is by flying to El Calafate’s airport, 220 km away, and from there it’s a four-hour bus journey. There are frequent bus connections from El Calafate, and regular bus services in summer from Ruta 40 in the north, useful if you’ve come from the Lake District in either Argentina or Chile. The tourist information office (Güemes 21, T02962-493270, http://www.elchalten.com, Mon-Fri 0900-2000, Sat-Sun 1300-2000 only in high season) has an excellent website with accommodation listed. They hand out trekking maps of the area, with paths and campsites marked, distances and walking times.
There are no banks or ATMs in El Chalten, and you will have a hard time trying to change a TC or pay with credit card, so bring ready cash.
Internet/telephone
Rancho Grande, San Martín 724. Open late. There are also 3 locutorios with phones, and internet on Av Güemes at the entrance to the town. There is no cellular phone coverage here, and you will find the internet excruciatingly slow.
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