There are several wine bodegas you can visit. Bodega El Carmen is on the right-hand side when arriving from Lima. This pisco distillery has an ancient grape press made from a huge tree trunk and is worth a visit. Bodega La Caravedo (Panamericana Sur 298, T511-9833 4729, http://www.lacaravedo.com) with organic production and sophisticated presentation. Ten kilometres outside Ica, in the district of Subtanjalla, is Bodega El Catador (Fondo Tres Esquinas 102, T056-403295, daily 1000-1800, good tours in Spanish, take a combi from the second block of Moquegua, 20 mins, US$0.40, taxi, 10 mins, US$1.50) . It has a shop selling home-made wines and pisco, plus traditional handicrafts associated with winemaking. There is also a restaurant-bar serving lunch, with dancing and music in the evening. The best time to visit is during harvest – late February to early April – when wine and pisco tasting is usually possible. Try Cachina, a very young white wine ‘with a strong yeasty taste’, which is drunk about two weeks after the grape harvest. Nearby is Bodega Alvarez, whose owner, Umberto Alvarez, is very hospitable. Ask about their pisco de mosto verde and the rarer, more expensive, pisco de limón, which will set you back US$40 per bottle.
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