Sechura Desert

A large area of shifting sands separates the cities of Chiclayo and Piura. Water for irrigation comes from the Chira and Piura rivers, and from the Olmos and Tinajones irrigation projects that bring water from the Amazon watershed by means of tunnels (one over 16 km long) through the Andes to the Pacific coast.

The northern river – the Chira – usually has a superabundance of water. Along its irrigated banks large crops of Tangüis cotton are grown. A dam has been built at Poechos on the Chira to divert water to the Piura valley. In its upper course the Piura – whose flow is far less dependable – is mostly used to grow subsistence food crops, but around Piura, when there is enough water, the hardy long-staple Pima cotton is planted.

In the 1870s, the government of Manuel Pardo decreed that all native cotton, including kapok, should be destroyed because it was believed that it gave parasites to the favoured, imported varieties. This was not the case and the value of Peruvian cotton is now recognized. It grows on a tall bush, unlike the short, Egyptian variety, and comes in seven colours, each of which was given a name by the Moche.

Solo cyclists should not cross the Sechura Desert as muggings have occurred. Take the safer, inland route. There are several restaurants between Km 845 and 848, and another midway between Mórrope and Piura, but there are no hotels. Do not camp out if possible, though heading south, strong headwinds may make camping unavoidable.