The largest archeological site of the continent in the desert sand of Trujillo
0900-1700. A ticket covering the entrance fees for Chan Chán, the site museum, as well as Huaca El Dragón and Huaca La Esmeralda (for 2 days) costs US$4 (students US$2.15 with an official ISIC card; tickets can be bought at any of the sites, except La Esmeralda). A guide at the site costs US$5.80 per hr (the price is the same for a small group); recommended so you don’t miss anything. A map and leaflet in English is on sale for US$0.75. Robberies have occurred on the dirt track from turn-off to the site (20 mins), even on the track from the site museum and the main palace complex, but a police car is stationed at the turn-off to the site. It is best to go in a group. If alone, contact the in Trujillo to arrange for a policeman to accompany you (there should be no charge). On no account walk the 4 km to the site, or on Buenos Aires beach, near Chan Chán, as there is serious danger of robbery, and of being attacked by dogs.
This crumbling imperial city of the Chimú is the largest adobe city in the world and lies about 5 km from Trujillo. Heavy rain and flooding in 1925 and 1983 damaged much of the ruins and, although they are still standing, eight palaces are closed to visitors. Thankfully, UNESCO donated US$100,000 and protection work ensured that the 1998 El Niño had little effect. Conservation work has uncovered more friezes since then.
The ruins consist of nine great compounds built by Chimú kings. The 9-m-high perimeter walls surrounded sacred enclosures with usually only one narrow entrance. Inside, rows of storerooms contained the agricultural wealth of the kingdom, which stretched 1000 km along the coast from near Guayaquil, in Ecuador, to beyond Paramonga.
Most of the compounds contain a huge walk-in well that tapped the ground water, raised to a high level by irrigation higher up the valley. Each compound also included a platform mound that was the burial place of the king, with his women and his treasure, presumably maintained as a memorial. The Incas almost certainly copied this system and transported it to Cuzco where the last Incas continued building huge enclosures. The Chimú surrendered to the Incas around 1471 after 11 years of siege and threats to cut the irrigation canals.
The dilapidated city walls enclose an area of 28 sq km containing the remains of palaces, temples, workshops, streets, houses, gardens and a canal. Canals up to 74 km long kept the city supplied with water. What is left of the adobe walls bears well-preserved moulded decorations showing small figures of fish, birds and various geometric motifs. Painted designs have been found on pottery unearthed from the debris of a city ravaged by floods, earthquakes and huaqueros.
The Ciudadela of Tschudi (daily 0900-1630 (but it may be covered up if rain is expected); arrive well before 1600 as you need more than 30 mins to see the site and will not be allowed in much after that) is a 20-minute walk from the main road and has been restored. The site museum on the main road, 100 m before the turn-off, has a son-et-lumière display of the growth of Chan Chán as well as objects found in the area. It also has a chronological chart of the cultures of the region.
W Sometimes a singer waits in the Plaza Principal of the Ciudadela to show the perfect acoustics of the square (she expects a tip)....
