A popular alternative to staying in Trujillo is the fishing and surfing town of Huanchaco, which is full of hotels, guesthouses and restaurants (scant nightlife). It has great beaches to the south; to the north are reed beds good for birdwatching. The town is famous for its narrow pointed fishing rafts, known as caballitos (little horses), made of totora reeds and depicted on Salinar, Gallinazo, VirĂș, Moche, Lambayeque and ChimĂș pottery. These are still a familiar sight in places along the northern Peruvian coast. Unlike those used on Lake Titicaca, they are flat, not hollow, and ride the breakers rather like surfboards. You can see the reeds growing in sunken pits at the north end of the beach, the Reserva Los Balsares de Huanchaco. Fishermen offer trips on their caballitos for US$1.75, be prepared to get wet (groups can contact Luis Gordillo, El Mambo, T044-461092). Fishermen give demonstrations for US$3.50 (groups should give more). You can see fishermen returning to shore in their reed rafts at about 0800 and 1600 when they stack the boats upright to dry in the fierce sun.
The town, now developed with beach houses and homes for wealthy Trujillanos, is overlooked by a huge church, one of the oldest in Peru (1535-1540), from the belfry of which are extensive views. The pier (US$0.20) also gives good views. In winter it is very quiet.
Note The strength of the sun is deceptive. A cool breeze off the sea reduces the temperature, but you can still be badly sunburned.
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