Trujillo, capital of the Department of La Libertad, disputes the title of second city of Peru with Arequipa. Founded by Diego de Almagro in 1534 as an express assignment ordered by Francisco Pizarro, the city was named after the latter’s native town in Spain. There is enough here to hold the attention for several days. The area abounds in pre-Columbian sites, there are beaches and good surfing within easy reach and the city itself still has many old churches and graceful colonial homes, built during the reigns of the viceroys.
Perhaps Trujillo’s greatest attractions are the impressive Pre-Inca ruins that surround it: the Moche pyramids of Huaca del Sol and de la Luna, Chan Chán and the more distant El Brujo. All can be reached by public transport, but if that sounds complicated, there are many tours available. You need at least an hour to gain a full explanation of Chan Chán and Huaca La Luna, but many tours only allow 20 minutes each. If you are all ruined-out, just a few minutes up the coast from Trujillo is the seaside town of Huanchaco, long a favourite of travellers for surfing, watching the fishermen on their reed boats and just hanging out. For listings, see pages -.
With its compact colonial centre and mild, spring-like climate, Trujillo is best explored on foot. However, should you need a taxi, there are plenty of them. Always use official taxis, which are mainly yellow. The major sites outside the city, Chan Chán, the Moche pyramids and Huanchaco beach are easily reached by public transport or taxi/colectivo, but care is needed when walking around. Beware of overcharging, check fares with locals. A taxi can be hired from in front of the Hotel Libertador for US$10 an hour about the same rate as a tour with an independent guide or travel agent for one to two people. A number of recommended guides run expert tours to these and other places. NoteThe very centre of Trujillo has confusing double street names; the smaller printed name is the one generally shown on maps, and in general use.
The airport is to the west of town. You will enter town along Avenida Mansiche. There is no central bus terminal and none of the bus stations are in the centre. They are spread out on three sides of the city, beyond the inner ring road, Avenida España. Plenty of taxis and colectivos can be found at the terminals to get you to your hotel. Insist on being taken to the hotel of your choice. Taxi drivers constantly say your hotel is too far/close, expensive/cheap, noisy/boring. They want to take you to the most distant/ expensive/remote place to increase fare/commission/overcharging possibilities.
My favorite city in Northern Peru, for the simple fact they played old Roberto Benigni movies from the 80ies in a cinema when I was there. There is one local dish where you are served a fish's head with spinach, avoid it.
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