Juliaca travel guide

As the commercial focus of an area bounded by Puno, Arequipa and the jungle, Juliaca (3825 m) has grown very fast into a chaotic place with a large impermanent population, lots of contraband and more tricitaxis (taxicholos) than cars. Monday, market day, is the most disorganized of all. On the positive side, Juliaca provides access to the north side of the lake as well as various other worthwhile attractions. It is less of a tourist town than Puno and is an alternative base for independent travellers who want to explore Titicaca beyond the gringo trail. It’s freezing cold at night, so make sure you’re wrapped up well in your recently purchased alpaca clothing. Juliaca is a major transport hub for paved roads to Cuzco and Arequipa and also has the only airport in the region.

You can buy wool and alpaca goods at the large Sunday market, La Dominical, near the exit to Cuzco. Another good place to find cheap alpaca sweaters is the Galería Artesanal Las Calceteras, on Plaza Bolognesi. Túpac Amaru market, on Moquegua, seven blocks east of the railway line, is a cheap black market that’s great value. The Plaza de Armas is mostly lined with modern buildings. On it stands the grey-stone cathedral, Santa Catalina, sombre inside and lit by candles and the yellow light through the windows. If you’re unlucky enough to fall ill here, there’s a first-class hospital run by the Seventh Day Adventists.

To get an overview of town and the surrounding altiplano, climb one of the hills that rise to the west. Follow the steps at the south end of Ayacucho to the hill with the antennae, from there you can continue along the stations of the cross to the Cristo Blanco statue. It is not safe to go in the evening.