Buses full of tourists make a beeline for Sylvia's, which is justifiably good, but locals know that Amy Ruth's is just as excellent but with half the hassle. This is some of the best soul food the city has to offer, as good as any southern grandma will prepare - indeed, the restaurant is named for the owner's grandmother. Fried chicken and waffles (a dish called "The Rev. Al Sharpton") and collard greens are must-tries.
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