Plaza de Armas and around Travel Guide

Cusco's city center is world-known and a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The heart of the city in Inca days was Huacaypata (the place of tears) and Cusipata (the place of happiness), divided by a channel of the Río Saphi. Today, Huacaypata is the Plaza de Armas and Cusipata is Plaza Regocijo. This was the great civic square of the Incas, flanked by their palaces, and was a place of solemn parades and great assemblies. Each territory conquered by the Incas had some of its soil taken to Cuzco to be mingled symbolically with the soil of the Huacaypata, as a token of its incorporation into the empire. As well as the many great ceremonies, the plaza has also seen its share of executions, among them the last Inca, Túpac Amaru, the rebel conquistador, Diego de Almagro the Younger, and the 18th-century indigenous leader, Túpac Amaru II. On the northeast side of the square, the early 17th-century baroque cathedralIUS$8.90 or entry by religious buildings ticket; Mon-Wed, Fri and Sat 1000-1130, 1400-1730, Thu and Sun 1400-1730 only;, daily 0500-1000 for worshippers, Quechua Mass at 0500-0600, forms part of a three-church complex: the cathedral itself, Iglesia Jesús y María (1733) on the left as you look at it and El Triunfo (1533) on the right. There are two entrances; the cathedral doors are used during Mass but the tourist entrance is on the left-hand side through Iglesia Jesús y María. The cathedral itself was built on the site of the Palace of Inca Wiracocha (Kiswarcancha) using stones from Sacsayhuaman. The gleaming, renovated gilded main altar of the Iglesia Jesús y María draws the eyes to the end of the church. However, take the time to look up at the colourful murals that have been partially restored. The two gaudy, mirror-encrusted altars towards the front of the church are also hard to miss. Walking through into the cathedrals transept, the oldest surviving painting in Cuzco can be seen. It depicts the 1650 earthquake. It also shows how, within only one century, the Spaniards had already divided the main plaza in two. El Señor de los Temblores (The Lord of the Earthquakes) can be seen being paraded around the Plaza de Armas, while fire rages through the colonial buildings with their typical red-tiled roofs. Much of modern-day Cuzco was built after this event. The choir stalls, by a 17th-century Spanish priest, are a magnificent example of colonial baroque art (80saints and virgins are exquisitely represented), as is the elaborate pulpit. On the left is the solid-silver high altar. At the far right-hand end of the cathedral is an interesting local painting of the Last Supper (there is another in the Museo de Arte Religioso, see page ). But this is the Last Supper with a difference, for Jesus is about to tuck into a plate of cuy, washed down with a glass of chicha! Entering El Triunfo there is a stark contrast between the dark, heavy atmosphere of the cathedral and the light, simple structure of this serene church. Built on the site of Suntur Huasi (The Roundhouse), El Triunfo was the first Christian church in Cuzco. The name El Triunfo (The Triumph) came from the Spanish victory over an indigenous rebellion in 1536. It was here that the Spaniards congregated, hiding from Manco Inca who had besieged the city, almost taking it from the invaders. The Spaniards claim to have witnessed two miracles here in their hour of need. First, they were visited by the Virgin of the Descent, who helped put out the flames devouring the thatched roofs, then came the equestrian saint, James the Greater, who helped kill many indigenous people. The two divinities are said to have led to the Spanish victory; not only was it the triumph of the Spaniards over the Incas, but also of the Catholic faith over the indigenous religion. The fine granite altar of El Triunfo is a welcome relief from the usual gilding. Here, the statue of the Virgin of the Descent resides and, above her, is a wooden cross known as the Cross of Conquest, said to be the first Christian cross on Inca land brought from Spain. On the southeast side of the plaza is the beautiful church of La Compañía de Jesús, built on the site of the Palace of the Serpents (Amarucancha, residence of the Inca Huayna Cápac). The original church was destroyed in the earthquake of 1650 and the present-day building took 17 years to construct. It was inaugurated in 1668. The altarpiece is resplendent in gold leaf: it stands 21 m high and 12 m wide. It is carved in the baroque style, but the indigenous artists felt that this was too simple to please the gods and added their own intricacies. Gold leaf abounds in the many retablos and on the carved pulpit.

Plaza de Armas and around travel guide by is this text outdated?

Latest Reviews for Plaza de Armas and around

Have you been here? Write a quick review:

 You are currently not logged in. Login or register to write a review.