His father, grandfather and uncle were all chefs, and he himself is one of the most well-known restaurateurs in Provence. A review of the career of this champion of Provencal cuisine.
At the age of 15, I thought I knew it all. I had no idea every region had its own cuisine. I had learnt how to make poularde demi-deuil (truffled chicken) and lobster thermidor. Apart from their somewhat ominous titles, they had led me to turn my back on my native cuisine. But I was already succumbing to the charms of ratatouille. "Living happily in our own village" After a year and a half as an apprentice, Gui returned to Bormes les Mimosas, where his father had opened a family restaurant, La Tonnelle, run together with his brother, their wives and their grandparents. Over a total of 33 years, they never closed once, not even for holidays! "La Tonnelle made our reputation. I then started the Jardin de Perlefleur, in our own house and garden. We've had offers from people in high places to open restaurants in Saint Tropez, in Paris and even abroad. We've always refused. We have never aspired to anything other than living happily in our own village." Recognised by his peers and by critics as one of the most eminent specialists of Provencal cuisine, Gui Gedda has travelled the globe to give talks and have the world's leading lights taste his specialities. No ratatouille on the menu in 1898 Although now retired, he continues his travels in defence of a cuisine with shallower roots than one might think. "500 years ago, making pistou soup would have been unthinkable, as many of its ingredients were simply unknown. Among the 5,000 recipes of the original Guide Escoffier, first published in 1898, there is no mention whatsoever of ratatouille. In fact, I inherited my culinary culture from my grandparents." A writer and a chef In tribute to his grandparents, Gui Gedda is at present tackling yet another book: La cuisine niçoise et provençale en 7 colères, in which he pulls apart current clichés and fashions, such as serving al dente vegetables with everything. "It's fine in other regions, but around here things are based on stewed vegetables and slow-baked oven dishes." And now for some exclusive news, before leaving Bormes and Gui Gedda's delightful garden: langouste à l’armoricaine is neither Breton nor American, it's Provencal! He has collected the necessary evidence. "I'd swear it on my own head", he concludes, with a mischievous look. Forthcoming title: La cuisine niçoise et provençale en 7 colères"Other books by Gui Gedda: Le grand livre de la cuisine provençale (Editions Marabout, 2007), now a paperback, has also been translated into English as Cooking School: Provence (Dorling Kindersley). Titles in French: Tout miel (ROM Editions, 1996), La magie de la figue dans la cuisine provençale (Edisud, 2004), La cuisine du soleil (Editions Jeanne Laffitte, 2005), La renaissance du coing....
