New Zealand travel guide

For tramping, the Moirs Guides (NZ Alpine Club) and New Zealand’s Great Walks by Pearl Hewson (Hodders) are recommended. Also check out titles by Craig Potton, www.craig potton.co.nz. For cycling, Bruce Ringer‘s New Zealand by Bike (Mountaineers) is excellent. For skiing try the annual Ski and Snowboard Guide available free from Brown Bear Publications, http://www.brownbear.co.nz.

The New Zealand Book Council , PO Box 11-377, Wellington, T04-4991596, www.book council.org.nz. Excellent source of listings of books, places of literary interest and events.

When Keri Hulme won the Booker Prize in 1985 for The Bone People, and children’s writer Margaret Mahy won the Carnegie Medal twice for The Haunting and The Changeover, New Zealand writing was put on the map. Previously, only the celebrated short stories by Katherine Mansfield (1888-1923) received international acclaim. The Collected Stories of Katherine Mansfield is her best-known title. Other works of note include: Maurice Shadbolt’s Season of the Jew, a story about dispossessed Maori identifying with the Jews of ancient Israel; Maurice Gee’s Going West, a story of unravelling relationships amidst the backdrop of Auckland and Wellington; Witi Ihimaera’s Bulibasha, an affectionate look at Maori sheep shearing gangs in Eastland; and Alan Duff’s much acclaimed Once Were Warriors, a disturbing and powerful insight into Maori domestic life. The film of it provides a reality check and is the complete antithesis of New Zealand’s clean green, peaceful image.

The Mobil New Zealand Travel Guide by Diana and Jeremy Pope offers a general place- orientated guide, with interesting background reading and historical insights. Wise’s New Zealand Guide, available in most second-hand bookshops, is excellent. For B&B guides the New Zealand Bed and Breakfast Guide by J Thomas (Moonshine) and the Friar’s B&B Guide are recommended. For fans, The Lord of the Rings Location Guidebook by Ian Brodie, ($50), provides details the film locations around the country and how to get there (with GPS references). The book is only available in New Zealand, http://www.harpercollins.co.nz.

The History of New Zealand by Keith Sinclair is a dated but celebrated historical work, starting from before the arrival of Europeans. Maori: A Photographic and Social Study and Being Pakeha, both by Michael King; The Old- Time Maori by Makereti; The Treaty of Waitangi by Claudia Orange; and The New Zealand Land Wars by James Belich are all equally celebrated works covering the often contentious historical issues of the Maori and Pakeha. For an overall insight The New Zealand Historical Atlas: Ko Papatuanuku e Takoto Nei is highly visual, easy to read and generally recommended.

There is a vast array of pictorial books celebrating New Zealand’s stunning scenery. The best known photographers are Craig Potton, Andris Apse and Robin Morrison. Their books are of a very high quality and contain some exquisite photographs. There are a few good wildlife guidebooks and field guides. Geoff Moon’s New Zealand Birds is an old favourite while the new Field Guide to New Zealand Wildlife by Rod Morris and Terence Linsey (Collins) is recommended. From afar the pictorial websites of www.photonewzea land.com; http://www.andrisapse.co.nz; and http://www.craigpotton.co.nz, are all excellent.

Even before Kiwi Peter Jackson, director of Lord of the Rings changed the face of New Zealand film making, the nation had produced a number of notable feature films and was home to internationally recognized actors and directors. Perhaps the most famous film (though an alarming and uncomfortable experience) is Once Were Warriors (1994) – an adaptation of Kiwi writer Alan Duff’s portrayal of a highly dysfunctional urban Maori family, directed by Lee Tamahori. For those looking for a reality check of the worst social aspects of the advertised, pleasant ‘clean green land’ it is a must-see, superbly demonstrating that New Zealand is not immune to the death of traditional cultures, poverty, alcoholism and domestic abuse.

On a lighter note, yet still depicting harsh times, is the romantic classic The Piano (1993) directed by New Zealand’s most noted director Jane Campion. Starring Holly Hunter, Sam Neill and Hollywood tough guy, Harvey Keitel, it tells the haunting story of a Scottish immigrant (Hunter) and her daughter (Anna Paquin) who are brought to New Zealand in the early 19th century in an arranged marriage to troubled colonial landowner (Neill). Finding Neill to be as romantic and warm-hearted as the mud they seem to spend all their time trudging through, she turns to the brooding, yet caring employee (Keitel) for love and affection. Part of the attraction is also his willingness to transport her prized possession – a grand piano – inland from the beach where she and her daughter were so unceremoniously off-loaded. It is a deserving multi-award winner that is well acted and has a superb musical score. However, it may leave you thinking New Zealand is a very harsh, wet place of little more than tangled bush and mud – which essentially it once was. Although actor Sam Neill was not born in New Zealand, he grew up in the South Island and now lives in Queenstown, so is considered by many to be an adopted son. Another actor who was born in New Zealand, but grew up in Australia, is Russell Crowe, who shot to fame for his macho role in Gladiator and has been in the public eye ever since.

But it was the creative talent and determination of North Islander Peter Jackson that put the country firmly on the movie-making map in 1999-2000 with the filming and release of the much lauded Lord of the Rings trilogy. At a cost of over $300 million it was a far cry from Jackson’s other lesser-known projects, which including the New Zealand classic Heavenly Creatures, an intriguing tale of two troubled teenage girls. Perhaps it was his talent, his passion and his unflappability that made what was for him a childhood dream – a film version of JRR Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings (LOTR) – into such a success, but ask any Kiwi and they will add two other essential ingredients with pride and alacrity to what was a mammoth technical and logistical filming project. The first is the very nature and variety of the Kiwi landscape, from its foreboding volcanoes to classic snow-capped mountain ranges that were so suited to Tolkien’s realm of ‘Middle Earth’ and the collective global imagination of what it would really look like. The other essential ingredient for the film’s technical success is the famed Kiwi ingenuity and down-to-earth enthusiasm – traits so obvious and refreshing in Jackson’s own rather plump persona. In tune perhaps with the fictional characters he so brilliantly portrayed on film, you would not catch the boffin-like Jackson posing in tux and tails at an award ceremony or emerging from some stretch limo with a vacuous, leggy model by his side. Whether on set or in Tinsel Town he is far more likely to be discussing scenes with an equally down-to-earth actor or technician, in a pair of training shoes and munching on a ham sandwich.

There is no doubt Jackson will now be seen as the true founding father of film in New Zealand and that many more films and directors will follow suit to utilize the landscape and boundless, innate Kiwi skills. In 2002/2003 The Last Samurai, starring Tom Cruise, was filmed in the shadow of Mount Taranaki and in 2005/6 Jackson directed his next big project – another childhood passion – King Kong. In 2006 The World’s fastest Indian starring Anthony Hopkins and directed by Roger Donaldson also received international acclaim. Based on a true life story of New Zealander Burt Munro, who spent years building a 1920 Indian motorcycle with which he set the land-speed world record at Utah’s Bonneville Salt Flats in 1967.

But whether you are an avid fan of LOTR and are still desperately keen to pay homage to the many film locations, or don’t know a Hobbit from an Uruk-Hai, one thing is for sure: despite all the hype and the massively increased profile of the New Zealand landscape, in reality and aesthetically nothing has changed and the country exists as it always has – undeniably in your face and breathtakingly beautiful.

The Maori are essentially a tribal race consisting of the whanau (family unit), extending to the hapu (sub-tribe) and then the iwi (full tribe). Together they are referred to as the tangata whenua, which directly translated means ‘people of the land’. The Maori relationship with their ancestors (or tipuna) is considered to exist through their genetic inheritance, and an individual’s own genealogy (or whakapapa) can be traced right back to the gods via one of the original migratory canoes (or waka). There are over 40 iwi in New Zealand with the largest being the Ngapuhi (descendants of Puhi) in Northland who have over 100,000 members, to one of the smallest, the Ngai Tahu (descendants of Tahu) in the South Island, who have only about 30,000 members. The Maori’s family based social structure is in many ways remarkably similar to the early Scottish clan system, which developed almost in parallel on the other side of the planet. Like the Scots, the Maori culture have a love of music, song (waiata), dance (haka), oration (particularly storytelling), socializing and unfortunately, fighting amongst themselves and against outside invaders with fearless courage and determination. The word Maori does in itself not denote a common background but derives from a term of differentiation used between the ordinary people (natives) and the European explorers.

Traditional Maori life is bounded by the customs, concepts or conducts of tapu (meaning taboo, or sacred) and noa (meaning mundane, or the opposite of tapu). If something is tapu – whether an object, place, action or person – it must be given the accordant respect. To do otherwise can result in ostracism, bad luck or sickness. A good example would be a burial place that is forever tapu, or a food resource that is given seasonal tapu to encourage sustainability. One good example for the visiting tourist is the summit of Moehau, the Coromandel Peninsula’s highest peak. It is currently tapu which means that despite the views or absence of any guard (beyond the spiritual that is) it would be very culturally insensitive to go clambering all over it. Another is Green Lake (Rotokakahi) near Rotorua; the island on the lake is an ancient Maori burial ground and the lake is therefore tapu. As such you cannot use it for any recreational activity and you must not set foot on the island.

Noa is a term heard less often, but plays an important role in the balance or cancellation of tapu. For example, at some point the summit of Moehau may, through ceremony, have its tapu rendered noa. Once noa you can clamber away to your little heart’s content! Of course in the modern day your average ‘Maori Joe’ cannot just place a tapu on anything he chooses – his beer for example, or the Visa bill! If this were the case there would be social mayhem! Placing a tapu is a matter that requires deliberation by the iwi and enactment by the elders, very often after a meeting or hui. All things whether living or otherwise possess mauri , wairau (spirit) and mana. The meaning of mana goes well beyond words, but in essence means prestige, standing, integrity or respectability. It is a term that is often used by both Maori and Pakeha, and is even sometimes heard outside New Zealand. If a Maori warrior won a fight or a battle this would increase his mana, if he lost it would undermine it, and so on. Objects too have mana. The pendants (or tiki) that you buy, for others never yourself, can hold spiritual mana or can increase in mana as they are passed on to others. It is a lovely term and perhaps the one most tourists remember once they leave.

For such a small country New Zealand has a thriving rock scene with Dunedin considered the hotbed of talent. In the ‘70s and ‘80s Split Enz was New Zealand’s best-known group, reaching international recognition. Other notable bands include Crowded House and the Exponents. In the late 1990s OMC (Otara Millionaires Club) shot to fame with their catchy hit ‘How Bizarre’, but despite their success have since broken up. Many alternative bands and singers like Bic Runga and DJ Amanda, who are fast developing a unique Kiwi or rap sound, mixed with mainly Polynesian influences, thrive within the mainstream. Neil Finn, formerly of Crowded House, and Dave Dobbyn, spearhead the most successful ageing-rocker solo careers. In the classical arena Dame Kiri Te Kanawa has for many years been New Zealand’s most noted international opera star. Traditional domestic or world music – outside of Maori performances and Irish pubs – is quite hard to find, however the Pacific Festival held in Auckland in March is one notable exception.

The population of New Zealand currently stands at about four million. The population densities are unevenly spread between the two islands, with the North Island home to about three million and the South Island about one million. Greater Auckland alone is home to just over one million, almost a third of the total population. New Zealand is essentially a bicultural society made up of Maori and Europeans, and many Caucasian (Pakeha) nationalities are present. Maori make up about 15% of the total population, with the vast majority living in the North Island. Pacific Islanders make up the second largest non-Caucasian group at around 6% with almost all living in Greater Auckland. Asians make up 3% of the total population and are the fastest-growing minority group. Again, the vast majority of Asians choose to live in Greater Auckland. New Zealanders are famous for being ‘the world’s greatest travellers’ and at any one time a large proportion of citizens are absent or living abroad. Over 400,000 live and work in Australia alone. Through their close trans-Tasman ties Australian and New Zealand citizens are free to live and work in both countries.

The dominant religion is Christianity, with Anglican, Presbyterian and Roman Catholic denominations the most prominent. Other minority religions include Hinduism, Islam, Judaism and Buddhism. The Maori developed two of their own minority Christian-based faiths; Ratana and Ringatu, both of which were formed in the late 19th to early 20th centuries. Reflecting the increasing trend in most developed nations, at least a quarter of the total population are atheists or have no religion and this number is growing.

Due to its geographic isolation New Zealand was one of the last ‘viable’ lands to be settled by humans. Although it is a matter of debate, most modern historians speculate that the first peoples to discover and settle permanently in New Zealand were the ancestors of early Polynesians, who gradually spread southeast to the Pacific Islands from Indonesia around AD 1000. The ancestral land called Hawaiki is thought to be Tahiti and the Society Islands. This late ocean-going migration is quite incredible if you consider that just across the Tasman, in Australia, the aborigines had already been happily ensconced for over 50,000 years. Again, exactly when and how these early Polynesians arrived and how they actually lived is in doubt. What is known is that they arrived sporadically in double-hulled canoes and initially struggled with the colder climate of New Zealand. Finding their traditional root crops like yam and kumara (sweet potato) hard to establish, they had to change their principal diet and methods of hunting. Fishing and seafood gathering took precedence over cultivation, and seals and abundant flightless land birds (mainly moa) became principal food items. With such plentiful food, for many decades the early Maori thrived, but like the first aboriginal settlers of Australia they made the fatal mistake of plundering the environment without thought for the future or sustainability. They also brought with them dogs and kiore (rats) which, in the absence of predators, and along with hunting, reaped havoc on the flightless native birds.

Before long, especially in the South Island, much of the native bush had been burnt down and the hapless moa, along with a number of other species, were hunted to extinction. This period of colonization was to become known as the Archaic Period. Facing starvation, many of the tribes that had ventured south returned to the warmer environment of the North Island where traditional crops could still be grown and seafood could easily be gathered. By the time the first European explorers arrived the Maori had developed their own culture, based on the tight-knit family unit and a tribal system not dissimilar to the Celts and Scots. In a desire to protect family, food resources and land the Maori, like the Scots, saw their fair share of brutal inter-tribal conflict. The Maori developed a highly effective community and defence system built within fortified villages or pa and cannibalism was also common. By the 16th century they had developed into a successful, fairly healthy, robust race, free from European diseases or intercontinental greed and were, by this time, like the aborigines millennia before them, beginning to develop a sustainable future in tune with the environment around them. This period is known as the Classic Period.

However despite the Maori successes in colonization, in many ways, when the first human footprint was made on New Zealand shores, the subsequent environmental damage was inevitable and irreversible. A ‘classic’ dynamic of cause and effect was set in place that would compromise the land forever. The Maori had proved the nemesis of the unspoiled and isolated biodiversity of the land. Now, with the sails of European ships appearing above the horizon and the first European shoe-print – it was, effectively, to become the turn of the Maori themselves to be facing threat.

Although there is a vicious rumour that the French or Spanish were actually the first Europeans to sight New Zealand, the first documented discovery was made in 1642 by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman. Commissioned by the Dutch East India Company, Tasman was sent to confirm or otherwise the existence of the hotly rumoured Great Southern Continent (Terra Australis Incognita) and if discovered, to investigate its viability for trade. Doubtless with great satisfaction, he first set eyes on the new continent (Aotearoa) off what is now Okarito in Westland, on 13 December 1642, before heading north and anchoring in Golden Bay at the northern tip of the South Island. However, the excitement quickly turned to despair when the first encounter with the Maori proved hostile, with a loss of life on both sides. Without setting foot on land Tasman turned tail and fled up the west coast of the North Island en route to Tonga and Fiji. He christened the new land ‘Staten Landt’ which was later renamed ‘Nieuw Zeeland’. It was Tasman’s first and last encounter with the new land, but his visit led to New Zealand being put on the world map.

The next recorded European visit occurred with the arrival of the ubiquitous British explorer Captain Cook on board the ‘Endeavour’ in 1769. It would be the first of three voyages to New Zealand. Cook’s first landing, on 7 October in Poverty Bay was eventful to say the least, with what proved to be a classic culture clash with the resident Maori. Ignorance and fear on both sides led to a mutual loss of life, but unlike Tasman, Cook persevered with his public relations efforts and after further encounters managed to establish a ‘friendly’ relationship with the new people he called tangata Maori (the ‘ordinary people’).

Cook spent a further six months in New Zealand coastal waters mapping and naming the geographical features as he went. From Poverty Bay he first sailed south via the Bay of Plenty and Cape Kidnappers to Cape Turnagain (on the border of modern day Southern Hawke’s Bay and the Wairarapa), before heading back north, around the North Island, then south again to the Cook Strait and Ship Cove in the Queen Charlotte Sound. Ship Cove was clearly a favourite of Cook’s and would be revisited on every subsequent voyage. After refitting the Endeavour in Ship Cove, Cook returned to Cape Turnagain (via Cape Palliser), before sailing down the eastern coast of the South Island, passing Stewart Island (which he mapped as a headland), sighting the entrance to Dusky Sound in Fiordland, before returning via the west coast back to Cook Strait. Perhaps reluctantly he then left for Australia, but not before naming Cape Farewell, just south of Farewell Spit.

Cook’s second voyage in 1773 on board the ‘Resolution’ saw him land briefly in Dusky Sound (virtually unchanged to this day) before returning to Ship Cove via the west coast of the South Island and from there on to South America. On his third and last voyage, three years later, he returned to Ship Cove and his beloved ‘Sounds’, before heading for Hawaii (Sandwich Islands), where he was killed by the natives. Modern-day New Zealand owes a great deal to Captain Cook; not least the long list of place names that he bestowed upon what was perhaps his favourite destination. There are at least six statues around the country that now immortalize the great man.

After news spread of the Cook voyages, and perhaps more so due to the observations of his colleague and ship’s naturalist Joseph Banks, it did not take long for European sealers and whalers to reach New Zealand and rape the rich marine resources. Many set up stations around the south coast and Sub-Antarctic Islands and by the 1820s the New Zealand fur seal and numerous species of whale had been brought to the verge of extinction. As the industries subsequently declined they were quickly joined or replaced with a limited but still repetition of timber and flax traders. Others including adventurers, ex-convicts from Australia and some very determined (and some would say, much needed) missionaries joined the steady influx in. Samuel Marsden gave the first Anglican sermon in the Bay of Islands on Christmas Day, 1814.

Inevitably, perhaps, an uneasy and fractious integration occurred between the Maori and the new settlers and, in the familiar stories of colonized peoples the world over, the consequences for the native people were disastrous. Western diseases quickly ravaged over 25% of the Maori population and the trade of food, land or even preserved heads for the vastly more powerful and deadly European weapons resulted in the Maori Musket Wars of 1820-1835, a swift and almost genocidal era of inter-tribal warfare. With such a melting pot of divergent cultures, greed and religion simmering on a fire of lawlessness and stateless disorganization, contrary to the glowing reports being given back in Europe, New Zealand was initially an awful place to be. Crime and corruption was rife. The Maori were conned into ridiculously unfavourable land for weapons deals and, along with the spread of Christianity and disease, their culture and tribal way of life was gradually being undermined. Such were the realities of early settlement that Kororareka (now known as Russell) in the Bay of Islands, which was the largest European settlement in the 1830s, earned itself the name and reputation as the ‘Hellhole of the Pacific’. Amidst all the chaos the settlers began to appeal to their governments for protection.

In 1840 Hobson established Kororareka (the hell-hole of the Pacific’) as the first capital of New Zealand, but given its reputation and history, he moved the seat of government to Auckland within a year. With the increased influx of settlers, all greedy for land and resources, human nature very quickly superseded the legal niceties and undermined the fragile bridge of the new bicultural colony. In a frenzy of very dubious land deals between Maori and Pakeha (white settlers), as well as misunderstandings in methods of land use and ownership, resentment between the two was rife. This, plus the heavy taxes that were being demanded by the new and financially strapped government, strained the bridge to breaking point. The Maori were essentially beginning to feel disenfranchised and began to rebel against British authority.

One of the first disputes was initiated by a particularly fractious and persistent chief called Hone Heke who was one of the original chiefs to sign the treaty in the Bay of Islands. In 1844 he protested in a way that he knew would hit hard at the British psyche by cutting down the flagpole that so proudly flew the Union Jack in Kororareka (later renamed Russell). He did this not once, but (almost admirably) four times. Hone Heke’s actions led to a bloody war with the British that was to last two years. Sadly, this clash was just the beginning. In 1852 the Constitution Act was created and in 1853 the country was divided into six provinces, each with a Provincial Council exercising the functions of local government which included land purchases and sales.

At the same time, immigration was increasing and with the spread of disease, the Maori were becoming well outnumbered. Once again it seems, as with many native peoples around the world, they were becoming a resented minority and a displaced people. Exacerbated by the provincial administration, the continued greed of the settlers and inter-tribal conflicts, the Maori continued to lose land at an alarming rate and often in return for only meagre material gains.

Some of the more savvy Maori chiefs became reluctant to sell land and, in 1858, several Waikato tribes went a step further by electing their own Maori king. This became known as the King Movement. Although initially designed to preserve cultural identity and serve as a land policy maker, supporters were encouraged to resist all land sales and Pakeha settlement. The British reacted with complete derision, seeing the movement only as a barrier to further colonization. The Land Wars (or Maori Wars) inevitably ensued. Troops from both Britain and Australia were sent to aid the New Zealand militia in an attempt to quash the uprising, which spread outside the Waikato to Northland and Taranaki. The east coast later joined the fold with the formation of a Maori ‘Hauhau’ religious movement. One of the most noted Maori rebels was Te Kooti who for a time became the most wanted man in the land .

It proved to be a bloody time in New Zealand’s early history with the fierce and fearless Maori warriors putting up a determined and courageous fight. Their traditional methods of fighting from a fortified pa, with trenches, proved so effective (and later, so admired by the British) it became the chosen method of defence and attack in ground warfare until after the Second World War.

With far superior weaponry and organization the British quickly subdued the rebels. In return for their disobedience, and despite the treaty, they confiscated huge tracts of land. This land was then sold to new or already established settlers. By 1900 over 90% of the land was outside Maori ownership or control. They were a defeated people and, with little or no power and with continued integration, their culture was rapidly crumbling.

According to Maori legend New Zealand was created by the great Polynesian demigod ‘Maui-Tikitiki-a Taranga’ who hailed from the original Polynesian homeland of Hawaiki. Maui was well known for his trickery and guile and through the magical powers of a magic jawbone given to him by his ‘sorcerer’ grandmother, he was blessed with many god-like powers, with which to confront the world around him. Once, while out fishing with his five brothers, Maui used a piece of his magic jawbone as a fishhook and his own blood as bait. Soon he caught an almighty fish and struggling to pull it to the surface placed a spell upon it to subdue it forever. This great fish became Te-Ika-a- Maui (the Fish of Maui) and in essence the North Island of New Zealand. The shape of the North Island is said to resemble the body of the fish with the mouth being Palliser Bay at its southernmost tip, the fins Taranaki and the East Cape and its tail Northland. The mountains and valleys were created when Maui’s jealous brothers hacked hungrily at the fish with their greenstone mere (clubs). The South Island is ‘Te-Waka-a-Maui’ (the Waka of Maui) and Stewart Island ‘Te-Punga-o-te-Waka-a-Maui’ (the anchor)

Maori trace their ancestry to the homelands of ‘Hawaiki’ and the great Polynesian navigator Kupe. On a brave scouting mission, across the uncharted oceans to the southeast, Kupe made landfall on a new and as yet undiscovered land (Maui’s fish) at a spot now called the Hokianga in Northland, around AD 800. Finding the new land viable for settlement, Kupe named it Aotearoa – The Land of the Long White Cloud. Leaving his crew to colonize, Kupe then returned to Hawaiki to encourage further emigration. A century later the first fleet of waka left Hawaiki on the great migration to settle Aotearoa permanently. It was the crew of these great canoes that formed the first iwi (tribes) of a new race of people called the Maori.

Although development in the North Island suffered as a result of the conflicts, both timber, agriculture and gold came to the rescue. On an already solid base of productive agriculture, and with the lucrative rape of the upper North Island’s kauri forest already in full swing, the discovery of gold in the Coromandel in 1852 sealed the economic boom. The South Island too, which had been a relatively peaceful haven compared to the North, joined the party, with the discovery of gold from 1857 in the Nelson, Otago and west coast regions.

With much of the economic focus being on the South Island, the seat of a new central (as opposed to provincial) government was moved to Wellington which became the capital in 1876. With gold fever the prime attraction, the Pakeha population grew dramatically. With so much good fortune in the south, Dunedin’s headcount alone grew from 2000 in 1861 to 10,000 four years later, making it the largest town in the land. Although the gold boom lasted only a decade, the infrastructures that the boom set in place paved the way for agricultural, timber and coal industries to take over.

In the agriculture sector alone, especially through sheep and dairy cattle, New Zealand was becoming an internationally significant export nation and prosperity continued. Towards the end of the 19th century led by the enigmatic Liberal Party leader Richard ‘King Dick’ Seddon, New Zealand’s colonial settlers went through a dramatic and sweeping phase of social reforms. Well ahead of Britain, the USA and most other Western nations, women secured the vote and pioneering legislation was enacted, introducing old-age pensions, minimum wage structures and arbitration courts.

But while the Pakeha prospered the Maori continued to suffer. The Native Lands Act of 1865 was established to investigate Maori land ownership and distribute land titles, but again, thanks mainly to Maori tribal structure and the split of land to individual as opposed to communal blocks, this only exacerbated the disintegration of the Maori culture and undermined its cohesion. Maori were given the vote in 1867 but only held four out of 95 seats in the parliamentary House of Representatives. By 1900 the Maori population had decreased to less than 50,000 and with the integration of Maori and Pakeha and many Maori/Pakeha marriages, the pure Maori were becoming even more of a minority.

Shortly after the war, in 1947, New Zealand was declared an independent nation but thanks to the war and its important agricultural exports, it maintained close defence and trade links with the Great Britain, the USA and Australia. In 1945 it became one of the original member states of the United Nations (UN) and later joined the ANZUS Defence Pact with the USA and Australia. Domestically, the country again prospered but the nagging problems of race relations, land and resource disputes between Maori and Pakeha still had to be addressed.

By the early 1970s the vast majority of Maori had moved to urban areas in search of work but with many being unsuccessful, social problems proved inevitable. In an attempt to spawn a new sense of spirit, the government passed the Waitangi Day Act in 1960 making 6 February a day of thanksgiving in celebration of the treaty and the cohesive bicultural society it was supposed to have created. This was further emphasized with an official public holiday in 1973. But some Maori (and Pakeha) merely saw the day as an opportunity for protest and although the public holiday remains, the traditional pomp and ceremony annually enacted at Waitangi in the Bay of Islands, was scrapped for much more low-key governmental diplomatic posturing. In 1975 more significant progress was made with the formation of the Waitangi Tribunal which was established to legally and officially hear Maori claims against the Crown. This method of addressing the problems continues to this day, but as ever, the misinterpretations of the treaty and its translation remain a major stumbling block.

New Zealand joined most of the developed world in the economic slump of the ‘70s and ‘80s. The traditionally strong agricultural exports to Europe declined, the price of oil and manufacturing imports rose and it was hit hard by the stock market crash of 1987. In response to the economic decline, the government of the day – under Robert Muldoon’s National Party – deregulated the country’s economy, paving the way for free trade. The most important and lasting trade agreement was the Closer Economic Relations Trade Agreement made with Australia in 1983, but New Zealand was beginning to see itself playing a far more significant role in the Asian markets as opposed to the traditional European ones.

In 1984 the Labour government, under its charismatic leader David Lange, took control and made further sweeping and radical changes to the economy. These were dubbed ‘Rogernomics’ after the then finance minister Roger Douglas. Although the policies of privatization, free enterprise and the deregulation of the labour market improved the situation, unemployment rose and the policies began to prove unpopular with the voting public. Fearful of losing re-election votes Lange sacked Douglas, but the party reinstated him, and this resulted in his own shock resignation in 1989, leaving the party in disarray. Subsequently, the National Party led by the far less charismatic Jim Bolger swept to power in 1990.

One of the most important landmark decisions made on foreign policy in the 1980s was New Zealand’s staunch anti-nuclear stand. In 1984 Lange refused entry to any foreign nuclear-powered ships in its coastal waters. This soured its relationship with the US who reacted by suspending defence obligations to New Zealand made under the ANZUS pact in the 1950s. This anti-nuclear stance is still maintained with considerable pride and is one that was only strengthened when the French Secret Service bombed the Greenpeace vessel Rainbow Warrior in 1985, causing national and international outrage. Relations with France were further soured in 1995 with the rather arrogant and insensitive testing of nuclear weapons in French Polynesia.

Throughout the 1990s the National Party continued successfully to nurture the free market economic policies first initiated by Labour. In 1993 a national referendum voted unanimously in favour of a mixed-member proportional representation (MMP) system of government. This system, which has proved successful in Germany, gives electors two votes: one for a candidate in their own electorate and the second for their favoured political party. Maori can choose to vote in either a general or Maori electorate. There is a 120-seat parliament with 60 general electorate seats, five Maori and 55 allocated to parties according to the percentage of party votes received.

Whether this system of government has been good for the country is debatable, but what did result, through internal politics and fragile power-sharing agreements, were two women prime ministers. The first in New Zealand’s history was Jenny Shipley of the National Party who engineered a ‘coup’ to seize party leadership from Jim Bolger in 1997 and currently in power is Helen Clark of the 1999-elected Labour Party. Her success as Prime Minister is almost unprecedented. The new system can hardly be accused of restricting a diverse representation. One Green Party MP, Nandor Tanczos, is a Rastafarian and a Labour Party MP, Georgina Beyer, is transgender.

A highly significant event outside politics in 1995 was New Zealand’s win in the coveted America’s Cup yachting race. It was the first time the cup had been won by any nation other than the US and, given the country’s love of yachting, it was the cause of unprecedented national celebration and pride. Over 300,000 people lined Queen Street in Auckland to congratulate the heroic yachties’ return. With the successful defence of the cup again in 2000 it seemed yachting would join – or some would say replace – rugby as the nation’s world-dominating sport. Amidst much hype and after considerable amounts of money were spent to transform Auckland’s waterfront into a state-of-the-art sailing arena, the Kiwi populace prepared themselves for what would surely be another convincing win in 2002/2003. But it was a dream that turned, quite dramatically, into a nightmare as amidst tactical errors, design faults and even the mast snapping, former Kiwi team member Russell Coutts led a far superior outfit in the form of the Swiss Alinghi team to a highly embarrassing 5-0 whitewash. In the 2007 campaign, this time in Europe, Team New Zealand fought courageously to reach the final, but again despite valiant efforts, they lost to Alinghi for a second time and once again-for now-all hopes went out with the tide.

By 1907 New Zealand progressed to the title of ‘Dominion’ of Britain rather than merely a ‘colony’ and by the 1920s was in control of most of its own affairs. By virtue of its close links with Britain, New Zealand and the newly formed (trans-Tasman) Australia and New Zealand Army Corps (ANZAC) became heavily embroiled in the Boer War of 1899-1902 and again in the First World War, at Gallipoli and the Western Front. Although noted for their steadfast loyalty, courage and bravery, the ANZACs suffered huge losses. Over 17,000 never returned with one in every three men aged between 20 and 40 being killed or wounded. Almost a century on there remains a palpable sense of pride in both Australia and New Zealand for those lives lost and quite rightly so; their First World War casualties remain the greatest of any combat nation.

New Zealand joined the Western world in the Great Depression of the 1920s but it recovered steadily and independently progressed in an increasing atmosphere of optimism. Again from a solid base of agricultural production it prospered and immigration, particularly from Britain, grew steadily. The population had now passed one million. In 1935 New Zealand became the fist nation to enact a social welfare system, which included free health care and low-rental council properties. These pioneering acts of social reform, along with the economy, resources and common attitude, secured one of the highest standards of living in the world and New Zealand was an envied, prime ‘new-life’ destination.

However, along with the rest of the world, water was temporarily thrown on the fires of progress and prosperity with the outbreak of the Second World War. Once again, New Zealand and the loyal ANZACs answered the call. This time, in both Europe and Asia, it was the turn of the 28th Maori Battalion to earn a widespread admiration and respect for their tenacity and courage. It seemed their warrior spirit, if not their culture, was still alive and well. Like most warring nations the war effort extended to the home shores where women replaced men in the vast majority of industrial and social practices. With the spread of the conflict across the Pacific, it proved a nervous time for the nation and although many would be correct in saying it was not for the first time, the people of New Zealand were under a renewed threat of invasion. However, with the dropping of the atomic bomb in Japan the threat ceased and the war was over.

By 1838 there were about 2,000 British subjects in New Zealand and by this time the country was under the nominal jurisdiction of New South Wales in Australia. In 1833 James Busby was sent to Waitangi in the Bay of Islands as the official ‘British Resident’. He was given the responsibility of law and order, but without the means to enforce it. Matters were made worse with the arrival of boatloads of new British immigrants sent under the banner of the privately owned and non-government supported New Zealand Company. Four years after Busby’s arrival British settlers petitioned William IV for protection, citing the fact that Frenchman Baron de Thierry was threatening to pre-empt any British attempt to claim sovereignty of New Zealand. Fearful of losing any possibility of control, Britain appointed Captain William Hobson as Lieutenant Governor to replace Busby in New Zealand. His remit was to effect the transfer of sovereignty over the land from the Maori chiefs to the British Crown. In many ways the circumstances bore an uncanny resemblance to the situation in Britain before it became a United Kingdom. In essence the fact that the Maori were, like the Scots, a culture based on family (clan or tribe) and fought ferociously to protect that rather than a whole nation, would undoubtedly be in their favour. The lure for the Maori would of course be material gain in return for land and ‘full protection’ as British citizens. For many Maori iwi (tribes) whose power was inferior to that of others, this would of course be an attractive proposition. With the help of Busby who was now familiar with the ways and desires of the Maori, Hobson created what was to become the most important and controversial document in New Zealand history, the Treaty of Waitangi.

In the hastily-compiled document there were three main provisions. The first was the complete cession of sovereignty by the Maori to the Queen of England. The second was the promise of full rights and possession of Maori lands and resources (but with the right to sell, of course). The third, and perhaps the greatest, attraction, given the chaotic environment, was the full rights and protection of Maori as British citizens. After two days of discussions, a few amendments and amidst much pomp and ceremony, over 40 Maori chiefs eventually signed the Treaty on 5 February 1840. With these first few signatures from the predominantly Northland tribes, Hobson went on a tour of the country to secure others.

To this day the Treaty of Waitangi remains a very contentious document. From its very inception it was inevitably going to be a fragile bridge between two very different cultures. Given the many differences in communication, translation and meaning, at best it was spurious or vague but worse still could, as a result, be easily manipulated in both actual meaning and subsequent enactment. Indeed, a modern-day lawyer would look at the Treaty and rub his little hands with glee. In essence the best politician, public relations consultant or rabid optimist could only have sold it as a ‘beginning’ or a ‘start’ on the ‘difficult road to stable biculturalism’, while many a realist would have (and still would) declare it an unworkable ‘scam’.

By the September of 1840 Hobson had gathered over 500 signatures, all in the North Island. Feeling this was enough to claim sovereignty over New Zealand he did so, and declaring the right of discovery over the South Island, made New Zealand a Crown Colony, independent of New South Wales and Australia. But the refusal and subsequent omission of several key (and powerful) Maori chiefs paved the way for regional disharmony and eventually war.

New Zealand consists of three main islands – North Island, South Island and Stewart Island – with a handful of other small far-flung subtropical and sub-Antarctic islands (the largest being a group called the Chathams, which lie 853 km east of South Island) completing the family. The total land area is 268,704 sq km (slightly larger than the UK).

New Zealand’s boundaries extend from 33° to 53° south latitude and from 162° east longitude, to 173° west longitude, which results in a broad climatic range from north to south. It is bounded north and east by the South Pacific Ocean, on the west by the Tasman Sea and on the south by the great Southern Ocean. The nearest mainland is Australia, 1,600 km west, which is roughly the same distance as New Zealand is in length.

New Zealand is an ancient land that has been so isolated from any other land mass for so long that its biodiversity is described by some scientists as the closest one can get to studying life on another planet. The oldest rocks, which make up part of the New Zealand we know today, were first rafted away from the great Gondwana landmass over 100 million years ago by a process called continental drift. The modern landscape is the dramatic result of geological uplift and volcanic activity created by New Zealand’s location on the boundary of the Pacific and Indo-Australian Plates. Further ‘sculpturing’ occurred as a result of natural erosion, particularly the glacial erosion of numerous ice ages in the last two million years. Thanks to its long isolation, much of New Zealand’s biodiversity is not only ancient, but also highly unique, with such incredible oddities as the kiwi, tuatara and weta still in evidence today. A useful comparison is with the endemic biodiversity of Great Britain: having been separated from continental Europe for a mere 10,000 years it has only one endemic plant and one endemic animal species. In contrast, as a result of over 80 million years of isolation, the vast majority of New Zealand species are endemic. Around 90% of its insects and marine molluscs, 80% of its trees, ferns and flowering plants and 25% of it bird species, all 60 reptiles, four remaining frogs, two species of bat and eel are found nowhere else on earth. But on the tragic day that man arrived, a mere 1000 years ago, it was not only ‘paradise found’, but was to become ‘paradise lost’. Our arrival has caused more devastation to this ‘clean green land’ than anything else in 80 million years of evolution.

Like the country’s animal life, much of New Zealand’s plant life is very beautiful, very ancient and very unique, making it a veritable paradise for any ‘budding’ botanist. Over 80% of the country’s flowering plants are not endemic to any other land. But like the fauna, much of the country’s plant life is in a worrying state of decline, not as a result of predation, but by the clear felling and burning that has taken place since the arrival of man. Tragically, only about 15% of the New Zealand’s original forest remains. Even a brief description of New Zealand’s plant species is beyond the scope of this guide, but the following are some of the most notable species that you are likely to see.

New Zealand’s environment and highly unique biodiversity has been decimated by unwelcome and non-native wildlife and vegetation. Not surprisingly it has imposed strict bio-security laws. Be extra vigilant about not carrying any fruit, animal or plant matter of any kind without prior permission. Heavy fines are imposed on those who flout the rules. The New Zealand Customs Service website, http://www.customs.govt.nz, provides comprehensive advice for travellers including details of restricted items. The usual rules and regulations are also in force regarding pets or any live animals, drugs and firearms.

Apart from your personal effects and as long as you are over 17 years of age you are allowed the following importation concessions: 200 cigarettes or 250 g of tobacco or 50 cigars, or a mix of all three weighing no more than 250 g; 4½ litres of wine or beer and one 1125 ml bottle of spirits, liqueur or other libation. Goods up to a total combined value of NZ$700 are duty- and tax-free. New Zealand duty-free liquor is some of the cheapest in the world.

See also http://www.nzembassy.com

Australia High Commission:

Commonwealth Av, Canberra, ACT 2600, T+61-(0)2-6270 4211. Consulate General Level 10, 55 Hunter St, Sydney, PO Box 365, NSW 2001, T+61-(0)2-8265 2000

Canada High Commission:

Suite 727, 99 Bank St, Ottowa, Ont K1P 6G3, T+1-613-238 5991. Consulate General Suite 1200, 888 Dunsmuir St, Vancouver, BC, V6C 3K4, T+1-604-684 7388

France Embassy:

7 Rue Leonard de Vinci, 75116, Paris, T+33-01-45 01 43 43

Germany Embassy :

Friedrichstrasse 60, 10117, Berlin, T+49-30-206210

Netherlands Embassy :

Eisenhowerlaan 77n, 2517KK, The Hague, T+31-70-346 9324

UK High Commission:

New Zealand House, 80 Haymarket, London SW1Y 4TQ, T+44-(0)20-7930 8422

USA Embassy:

Observatory Circle NW, Washington DC, 20008, T+1-202-328 4800

Consulate General:
2425 Olympic Blvd, Suite 600E, Santa Monica, CA 90404, T+1-310-566 6555/T+1-310-460 4424.

Other than the occasional crazed driver, there are few dangerous creatures in New Zealand. An exception is the Katipo Spider. Small and black, about 25 mm from leg tip to leg tip, it is found on beaches, under stones and in driftwood throughout the North Island and parts of the South. It is not uncommon and can be fatal, with agonizing pain around the bite. Antivenin is readily available in hospitals.

Although not poisonous, the dreaded sandfly is found everywhere, but particularly common in the wetter and coastal areas of Fiordland. These black, pinhead sized ‘flying fangs’ can annoy you beyond belief. There are numerous environmentally friendly available such as: Shoo, Botanica and Repel.

Giardia is a water-borne bacterial parasite on the increase in New Zealand which, if allowed to enter your system, will cause wall-to-wall vomiting, diarrhoea and rapid weight loss. Don’t drink water from lakes, ponds or rivers without boiling it first.

The sun is dangerous and you should take care. Ozone depletion is heavy in the more southern latitudes and the incidence of melanomas and skin cancer is above average. Burn times, especially in summer, are greatly reduced so get yourself a silly hat and wear lots of sun block.

New Zealand’s weather, especially at higher elevations, is changeable and can be deadly. If you are tramping, or going ‘bush’ make sure you are properly clothed, take maps, a first-aid kit and a compass. Above all inform somebody of your intentions.

Volcanic eruptions and earthquakes are a rare but exciting factor and can prove fatal. In the event of an earthquake, stand in a doorway, get under a table and if you are in the open, get indoors or keep away from loose rock formations and trees. Apparently, all the major existing volcanoes in New Zealand are well ‘overdue’.

Should you come across any injured wildlife call the nearest DoC office and try to ensure the animal is taken to one of the few local wildlife rehabilitators. Provided the animal is not on the ‘Don’t touch’ list (ask DoC) and you use common sense, capture the animal and put it in a dark, fully-enclosed box with some ventilation holes. Then find out the location of the nearest rehabilitator and take it there yourself. If in doubt, leave it alone. If you come across a whale stranding or an obviously sick seal on the beach call DoC immediately or, in the South Island, Marine Watch, T02-535 8909.

Almost all towns and villages have at least one of the major bank branches. The main banks are the Bank of New Zealand, the National Bank of New Zealand, the ASB Bank, Post Bank and Countrywide Bank, with other trans- Tasman banks, like Westpac Trust and ANZ also in evidence. Bank opening hours are Mon-Fri 0900-1630 with some city branches opening on Sat until 1230. Exchange offices like Thomas Cook, Travelex and American Express tend to have longer opening hours, sometimes staying open until 2100 in the cities.

The minimum budget required, if staying in hostels or campsites, cooking for yourself, not drinking much and travelling relatively slowly is about $75 per person per day, but this isn’t going to be much fun. Going on the occasional tour, travelling faster and eating out occasionally will raise this to a more realistic $100-120. Those staying in modest B&Bs, hotels and motels as couples, eating out most nights and taking a few tours will need to budget for $200-300 per person per day. Costs in the major cities will be 20-50% higher. Non-hostelling single travellers should budget on spending around 60-70% of what a couple would spend.

All the major credit cards (Visa, MasterCard, Amex, JCB and Diners) are widely accepted. Most hotels, shops and petrol stations use EFTPOS (Electronic Funds Transfer at Point of Sale), meaning you don’t have to carry lots of cash. It is best suited to those who have a bank account in New Zealand, but credit cards can be used with the relevant pin number. If you intend to stay in New Zealand for a while you may be able to open an account with one of the major banks and secure an EFTPOS/ATM card and PIN. ATMs are readily available in almost all towns and though they accept non-host bank cards, it’s best to stick to your own bank’s ATMs so you do not incur hidden fees. Credit cards can of course be used and some banks are linked to foreign savings accounts and cards by such networks as Cirrus and Plus.

If you need money quickly or in an emergency the best way is to have it wired to you via any major bank with Western Union (NZ) T1800-325 6000, http://www.westernunion.com; or via Thomas Cook and Moneygram (NZ) T0800-872893, http://www.thomascook.com. The transfer can take less than an hour or up to a week depending how much is being transferred and how much you are willing to pay ($30-80). Charges are on a sliding scale; it will cost proportionately less to wire out more money. Most postshops can assist with money transfers.

The safest way to carry money is in TCs. These are available for a small commission from all major banks. American Express (Amex), Visa and Thomas Cook cheques are widely accepted. Most banks do not charge for changing TCs and usually offer the best exchange rates. Keep a record of your cheque numbers and keep the cheques you have cashed separate from the cheques themselves, so that you can get a full refund of all uncashed cheques. It is best to bring NZ$ cheques to avoid extra exchange costs.

Mail can be sent to ‘Post restante’, CPO (Chief Post Office) in the main centres, where it will be held for up to 30 days. If you are being sent any mail make sure the sender marks your surname in capitals and underlines it. The principal pick-up points are:

Auckland Wellesley St Post Shop, Bledisloe St, T09-3796714, Mon-Fri 0730-1730).

Christchurch Cathedral Square Post Shop, Cathedral Sq, T03-3775411, Mon-Fri 0800-1800, Sat 1000-1600.

Dunedin Dunedin Post Shop, 243 Princess St, T03-4773518, Mon-Fri 0830-1730.

Nelson Nelson Post Shop, corner of Trafalgar and Halifax sts, T03-5467818, Mon-Fri 0745-1700, Sat 0930-1230.

Queenstown Main Post Office, 15-19 Camp St, T03-4227670, Mon-Fri 0830- 1800, Sat 0900-1600.

Wellington 43 Manners St, T04-473 5922, Mon-Fri 0800-1730, Sat 1000-1330.

Newmans South Pacific Vacations, T1-800- 342 1956, http://www.newmansvacations.com. Lots of tours or fully independent itineraries.

Swain Tours, T1-800-22-SWAIN, www.swain tours.com. Tailor-made or group tours of around 16 days, from approximately $3000.

Tauck, T1-800-788 7885, http://www.tauck.com. Australia and New Zealand combos, or a 9-day NZ tour taking in the best of Auckland, Rotorua, Queenstown and Milford from $3000.

Abercrombie and Kent, T1-800-5547016, http://www.abercrombiekent.com. Well-established US company offering a diverse range of luxury guided trips of 9-13 days, with other longer trips in combination with Australia.

Explore Worldwide, T0870-3334002, http://www.exploreworldwide.co.uk. Special interest trips such as cycling, walking or family holidays.

High Places, T0114 275 7500, www.high places.co.uk. Specialists in mountain trekking and adventure travel.

Kuoni Worldwide, T01306741111, http://www.kuoni.co.uk. Tailor-made itineraries.

Travelmood, 214 Edgware Rd, London, W2 1DH; also at 1 Brunswick Court, Bridge St, Leeds, LS2 7QU; and 16 Reform St, Dundee, DD1 1RG, T0871-226 6151, www.travel mood.com. 21 years’ experience as a top travel specialist offering tailor-made trips to the Far East and adventure and activity travel in Asia.

Australian Pacific Touring (UK), T020- 88797444, http://www.aptouring.co.uk. Escorted tours or fully independent packages.

It is illegal to work on a visitor permit. Non- residents (with the exception of Australian citizens) must obtain a work visa which allows you to enter the country, then a work permit which allows you to work upon arrival. Applications for both are best made well before arrival. The NZIS website has details and application forms to download. An exception to this rule is the working holiday visa which is available for those aged 18-30 from a number of countries (including Canada, Japan, Ireland, Germany, France and the UK) and entitles you to work for 12 months; conditions apply. Student visas come under a separate category. You can also get extensions on your visitor permit for up to 9 months but you must meet certain criteria. For detailed information contact the NZIS direct.

For a residence visa an application must be made from your own country. It involves a points system relating to factors such as age, education and occupation. The target number required fluctuates depending on the perceived demand for immigrants and, to a degree, politics. For details, consult the ‘Migration’ section on the website or contact the NZIS direct. Be warned – you will need endless supplies of patience. Once a residence visa is secured you can apply for citizenship after 3 years’ residency in New Zealand.