Background
History
Columbus sighted Montserrat on 11 November 1493, naming it after an abbey of the same name in Spain, where the founder of the Jesuits, Ignacio de Loyola, experienced the vision which led to his forming that famous order of monks. At that time, a few Carib Indians lived on the island but by the middle of the 17th century they had disappeared. The Caribs named the island Alliouagana, which means ‘land of the prickly bush’. Montserrat was eventually settled by the British Thomas Warner, who brought English and Irish Catholics from their uneasy base in the Protestant island of St Kitts. Once established as an Irish-Catholic colony, the only one in the Caribbean, Catholic refugees fled there from persecution in Virginia and, following his victory at Drogheda in 1649, Cromwell sent some of his Irish political prisoners to Montserrat. By 1648 there were 1,000 Irish families on the island. It was an Irishman who brought some of the first slaves over in 1651 and the economy became based on sugar. Slaves quickly outnumbered the original British indentured servants. A slave rebellion in 1768, appropriately enough on St Patrick’s Day, led to all the rebels being executed, and today they are celebrated as freedom fighters. Montserrat was invaded several times by the French during the 17th and 18th centuries, sometimes with assistance from the resident Irish, but the island returned to British control under the Treaty of Versailles (1783) and has remained a colony.
Political parties include the New People’s Liberation Movement (NPLM), the Montserrat Democratic Party (MDP) and the Movement for Change and Prosperity (MCAP). In General Elections in May 2006, the MCAP won four seats, the NPLM three seats, the MDP one seat and an independent candidate one seat. A coalition government was formed by the NPLM, the MDP and the independent. Dr Lowell Lewis (MDP) became Chief Minister.
The main concern of the government since the eruption of the volcano began has been to replace the destroyed infrastructure of the south. British and EU funding has contributed to the building of new schools, housing, hospital, fuel terminal, power station, factory shells, offices, roads, water systems, port and airport. In all, over £300 million has been spent by the British Government and the EU to rebuild Montserrat. A few Montserratians are beginning to return home from overseas and there has been an influx of workers from other Caricom countries to help the rebuilding process.
Economy
Gross domestic product grew rapidly at the end of the 1980s, expanding by 12.8% in 1988, although a slower rate was recorded in 1989 because of the devastation wreaked by Hurricane Hugo. 95% of the housing stock was totally or partially destroyed; production and exports were disrupted, infrastructure was severely damaged; public sector finances were hit by reduced income and greater expenditure demands; tourism slumped. Similar economic disruption occurred as a result of the volcanic eruption in 1995-1997 when the south had to be evacuated to the north. Most ex-pats left the island and tourists stayed away. The island now depends on aid from the UK but is beginning to recover, with new construction and hotels opening up again. A new airport has been built with British and EU monies and daily flights began in 2005.
People
The vast majority of the people are of African descent. Before the volcano erupted there was an influx of white Americans, Canadians and Britons who purchased retirement homes on the island. Montserratians are notable for their easy friendliness to visitors, speaking English flavoured by dialect and the odd Irish expression. There is virtually no crime and everyone leaves their doors unlocked. The population used to hover around 11,000, but emigration since the volcano started erupting in 1995 has reduced numbers to 4,800. Montserratians are British citizens with the right of abode in the UK. Around 30% of the current population are nationals of other Caribbean countries who have come to work in the rebuilding industry.
Culture
The Irish influence can still be seen in national emblems. On arrival your passport is stamped with a green shamrock. The island’s flag and crest show a woman, Erin, of Irish legend, complete with her harp; there are many Irish names, of both people and places, and the national dish, goat water stew, is supposedly based on a traditional Irish recipe, although some historians claim it is of African origin. A popular local folk dance, the Bam-chick-a-lay resembles Irish step dances and musical bands may include a fife and a drum similar to the Irish bodhran. The new Government House at Woodlands has a shamrock fixed to its roof.
The African heritage dominates, however, whether it be in Caribbean musical forms like calypso (the veteran Arrow is now an international superstar and can still be found on the island, having moved his operation north out of the volcano evacuation zone), steel bands or the costumed masqueraders who parade during the Christmas season. Another element in the African cultural heritage are the Jumbie Dancers, who combine dancing and healing. Only those who are intimate with the island and its inhabitants will be able to witness their ceremonies, though. Local choirs, like the long-established Emerald Community Singers, who can often be seen performing at the Vue Pointe Hotel, mix calypso with traditional folk songs and spirituals in their repertoire, and the String Bands of the island play the African shak-shak, made from a calabash gourd, as well as the imported Hawaiian ukelele.
Sir George Martin’s famed recording studios, the Air Studios, on the edge of Belham Valley, used to attract rock megastars such as Elton John, the Rolling Stones and Sting to the island, but the studios were closed after Hurricane Hugo. You can stroll around the gardens associated with the studios. Sir George recently built a Performing Arts/Cultural Centre at Little Bay with funds raised in 1997 at a gala fundraising concert for Montserrat at the Royal Albert Hall in London. Participating stars included Paul McCartney, Elton John, Eric Clapton, Sting, Mark Knopfler, Jimmy Buffet and Arrow, all of whom had used Air Studios in the past. At the same time a show was put on at Gerald’s Bottom on Montserrat by other musicians who had used the recording studios. The Climax Blues Band reformed for the occasion and Bankie Banks appeared, along with 18 local acts in what was optimistically called ‘Many Happy Returns’. Lately, some of the touring calypso artists such as Shadow and Sparrow, that have played Antigua, have taken the opportunity to come over to Montserrat and put on memorable shows at the Bitter End Beach Bar in Little Bay.
