India travel guide

India, with an estimated 1.17 billion people in 2009, is the second most populated country in the world after China. That population size reflects the long history of human occupation and the fact that an astonishingly high proportion of India’s land is relatively fertile. About 60% of India’s surface area is cultivated, compared with 10% in China and 20% in the US.

There is growing concern over the mountains of plastic bottles that are collecting and the waste of resources needed to produce them, so travellers are being encouraged to use alternative methods of getting safe drinking water. In some towns such as Dharam- shala and Leh, purified water is now sold for refilling your own container. You may wish to purify water yourself. A portable water filter is a good idea, carrying the drinking water in a plastic bottle in an insulated carrier. Always carry enough drinking water with you when travelling. It is important to use pure water for cleaning teeth.

Drinking water used to be regarded as one of India’s biggest hazards. It is still true that water from the tap or a well should never be considered safe to drink since public water supplies are often polluted. Bottled water is now widely available although not all bottled water is mineral water; most are simply purified water from an urban supply. Buy from a shop or stall, check the seal carefully (some companies now add a second clear plastic seal around the bottle top) and avoid street hawkers; when disposing bottles puncture the neck which prevents misuse but allows recycling for storage.

Tea and coffee are safe and widely available. Both are normally served sweet, and with milk. If you wish, say ‘no sugar’ (chini nahin), ‘no milk’ (dudh nahin) when ordering. Alternatively, ask for a pot of tea and milk and sugar to be brought separately. Freshly brewed coffee is a common drink in South India, but in the North, ordinary city restaurants will usually serve the instant variety. Even in aspiring smart cafés, espresso or cappuccino may not turn out quite as you’d expect in the West.

Bottled soft drinks such as Coke, Pepsi, Teem, Limca, Thums Up and Gold Spot are universally available but always check the seal when you buy from a street stall. There are also several brands of fruit juice sold in cartons, including mango, pineapple and apple – Indian brands are very sweet. Don’t add ice cubes as the water source may be contaminated. Take care with fresh fruit juices or lassis as ice is often added.

Indians rarely drink alcohol with a meal. In the past wines and spirits were generally either imported and extremely expensive, or local and of poor quality. Now, the best Indian whisky, rum and brandy (IMFL or ‘Indian Made Foreign Liquor’) are widely accepted, as are good Champagnoise and other wines from Maharashtra. If you hanker after a bottle of imported wine, you will only find it in the top restaurants for at least Rs 800-1000.

For the urban elite, refreshing Indian beers are popular when eating out and so are widely available. ‘Pubs’ have sprung up in the major cities. Elsewhere, seedy, all-male drinking dens in the larger cities are best avoided for women travellers, but can make quite an experience otherwise – you will sometimes be locked into cubicles for clandestine drinking. If that sounds unsavoury then head for the better hotel bars instead; prices aren’t that steep. In rural India, local rice, palm, cashew or date juice toddy and arak is deceptively potent. However, the Sikkimese chhang makes a pleasant change drunk out of a wooden tankard through a bamboo straw.

(See page for a food glossary. Regional cuisine is covered in the introduction to each state.)

You find just as much variety in dishes and presentation crossing South India as you would on an equivalent journey across Europe. Combinations of spices give each region its distinctive flavour.

The larger hotels, open to non-residents, often offer buffet lunches with Indian, Western and sometimes Chinese dishes. These can be good value (Rs 250-300; but Rs 450 in the top grades) and can provide a welcome, comfortable break in the cool. The health risks, however, of food kept warm for long periods in metal containers are considerable, especially if turnover at the buffet is slow. We have received several complaints of stomach trouble following a buffet meal, even in five-star hotels.

It is essential to be very careful since food hygiene may be poor, flies abound and refrigeration in the hot weather may be inadequate and intermittent because of power cuts. It is best to eat only freshly prepared food by ordering from the menu (especially meat and fish dishes). Avoid salads and cut fruit.

If you are unused to spicy food, go slow. Stick to Western or mild Chinese meals in good restaurants and try the odd Indian dish to test your reaction. Food is often spicier when you eat with families or at local places. Popular local restaurants are obvious from the number of people eating in them. Try a traditional thali, which is a complete meal served on a large stainless steel plate (or very occasionally on a banana leaf). Several preparations, placed in small bowls, surround the central serving of wholewheat chapati and rice. A vegetarian thali would include dhal (lentils), two or three curries (which can be quite hot) and crisp poppadums, although there are regional variations. A variety of pickles are offered – mango and lime are two of the most popular. These can be exceptionally hot, and are designed to be taken in minute quantities alongside the main dishes. Plain dahi (yoghurt) in the south, or raita in the north, usually acts as a bland ‘cooler’. Simple dhabas (rustic roadside eateries) are an alternative experience for sampling authentic local dishes.

Many city restaurants offer a choice of so-called European options such as toasted sandwiches, stuffed pancakes, apple pies, fruit crumbles and cheesecakes. Italian favourites (pizzas, pastas) can be very different from what you are used to. In the big cities, Goa and Dharamshala, the Western food is generally pretty good. Western confectionery, in general, is disappointing. Ice creams, on the other hand, can be exceptionally good; there are excellent Indian ones as well as some international brands.

India is not geared up to making provisions for the physically handicapped or wheelchair- bound traveller. Access to buildings, toilets (sometimes squat), pavements, kerbs and public transport can prove frustrating, but it is easy to find people to give a hand to help with lifting and carrying. Provided there is an able-bodied companion to help and you are prepared to pay for at least mid-price accom- modation, car hire and taxis, India should be rewarding, even if in a somewhat limited way.

Health care in the region is varied. There are many excellent private and government clinics/hospitals. As with all medical care, first impressions count. It’s worth contacting your embassy or consulate on arrival and asking where the recommended (ie those used by diplomats) clinics are. You can also ask about locally recommended medical do’s and don’ts. If you do get ill, and you have the opportunity, you should also ask your medical insurer whether they are satisfied that the medical centre/hospital you have been referred to is of a suitable standard.

Buying insurance with your air ticket is the most costly way of doing things: better go to an independent. Ask your bank too; some now offer travel insurance for current account holders. See also the website http://www.dh.gov.uk/ policyandguidance/healthadvicefortravellers.

If you are carrying specialist equipment – expensive cameras, VCRs, laptops – you will probably need to get separate cover for these items (otherwise you risk claims for individual items being limited to £250, not a good return on a digital SLR) unless they are covered by existing home contents insurance. It is always best to dig out all the receipts for these expensive personal effects. Take photos of the items and note down all serial numbers. Also check exactly what your medical cover includes, eg ambulance, helicopter rescue or emergency flights back home. Most importantly check for exclusions in the policy before you travel. You may find that even activities such as mountain biking are not covered and travellers would do well to note that drinking alcohol is likely to invalidate a claim in the event of an accident. Also check the payment protocol. You may have to pay first – known as an excess charge – before the insurance company reimburses you.

Always carry the telephone number of your insurer’s 24-hr emergency helpline and your insurance policy number (and details).

Most annual policies have a trip limit of around a month. If you plan to be abroad for longer insurers including Columbus, Direct Travel Insurance, Flexicover and Insure and Go offer suitable cover. If travelling abroad several times in a year, an annual, worldwide insurance policy will save you money. A 45- year-old buying no-frills annual, worldwide cover can expect to pay between £55-110. A family of 4 should expect to pay £100-200. Prices vary widely so it is best to get several quotes before you buy.

India is at the forefront of the technology revolution and raced to embrace the internet. In 2007, 21.1 million Indians were online, making it the third largest user in the world, behind only the USA and China. You’re never far from an internet café or PCO (public call office), which also offers the service. Note that internet cafés now require you to produce ID.

Hindi, spoken as a mother tongue by over 400 million people, is India’s official language. The use of English is also enshrined in the Constitution for a wide range of official purposes, notably communication between Hindi and non-Hindi speaking states. The most widely spoken Indo-Aryan languages are: Bengali (8.3%), Marathi (8%), Urdu (5.7%), Gujarati (5.4%), Oriya (3.7%) and Punjabi (3.2%). Among the Dravidian languages Telugu (8.2%), Tamil (7%), Kannada (4.2%) and Malayalam (3.5%) are the most widely used. Most of these languages have their own scripts. In all, there are 15 major and several hundred minor languages and dialects.

English now plays an important role across India. It is widely spoken in towns and cities and even in quite remote villages it is usually not difficult to find someone who speaks at least a little English. Other European languages are almost completely unknown. The accent in which English is spoken is often affected strongly by the mother tongue of the speaker and there have been changes in common grammar which sometimes make it sound unusual. Many of these changes have become standard Indian English usage, as valid as any other varieties of English used around the world. It is possible to study a number of Indian languages at language centres.

International newspapers (mainly English language) are sold in the bookshops of top hotels in major cities and occasionally by booksellers elsewhere. India has a large and lively English language press. They all have extensive analysis of contemporary Indian and some international issues. The major papers now have websites, excellent for keeping track of events, news and weather.

The best known are the traditionalist The Hindu, http://www.hinduonline.com/today. The Hindustan Times, http://www.hindustantimes.com, the slightly more tabloid-establishment Times of India, http://www.timesofindia.com/ and The Statesman, http://www.thestatesman.org. The Economic Times is good for world coverage. The Telegraph, http://www.telegraphindia.com, has good foreign coverage. The Indian Express, www.express india.com, stands out as being consistently critical of the Congress Party and the government. The Asian Age is now published in the UK and India simultaneously and gives good coverage of Indian and international affairs. Of the news weeklies, some of the most widely read are current affairs India Today, Frontline and The Week, which are journals in the Time or Newsweek mould. Business Today is of course economy- based, while Outlook has a broader remit and has good general interest features. There is also Outlook Traveller, probably the best of the domestic travel titles.

The post is frequently unreliable, and delays are common. It is best to use a post office where you can hand over mail for franking across the counter, or a top hotel post box. Valuable items should only be sent by registered mail. Government emporia or shops in the larger hotels will send purchases home if the items are difficult to carry. Seamail and Book Post have been on hold since Jan 2008 because of the Somali pirate situation – best to check for availability.

Airmail services to Europe, Africa and Australia take at least a week and a little longer for the Americas. Speed post (which takes about 4 days to the UK) is available from major towns. Speed post to the UK from Tamil Nadu costs Rs 675 for the first 250g sent and an extra Rs 75 for each 250g thereafter. Specialist shippers deal with larger items, normally around US$150 per cubic metre. Courier services (eg DHL) are available in the larger towns. At some main post offices you can send small packages under 2 kg as letter post (rather than parcel post), which is much cheaper at Rs 220. Check that the post office holds necessary customs declaration forms (2-3 copies needed). Write ‘No commercial value’ if returning used clothes, books etc. Sea mail, costs Rs 800 for 10 kg. ‘Packers’ do necessary cloth covering, sealing etc for Rs 20-50; you address the parcel, obtain stamps from a separate counter; stick stamps and a customs form to the parcel with glue available (the other form/s must be partially sewn on). Post at the Parcels Counter and obtain a registration slip. Cost varies by destination and is normally displayed on a board beside the counter. Sea Mail is currently being phased out to be replaced by SAL (Surface Air Lifted). The prices are fractionally lower than airmail, Rs 500-600 for the first kg and Rs 150-250 per extra kg. Delivery can take up to 2 months.

A double ring repeated regularly means it is ringing; equal tones with equal pauses means engaged (similar to the UK). If calling a mobile, rather than ringing, you might hear music while you wait for an answer.

The international code for India is 0091. International Direct Dialling is now widely available in privately run call booths, usually labelled on yellow boards with the letters ‘PCO-STD-ISD’. You dial the call yourself, and the time and cost are displayed on a computer screen. Cheap rate (2100-0600) means long queues may form outside booths. Telephone calls from hotels are usually more expensive (check price before calling), though some will allow local calls free of charge. Internet phone booths, usually associated with cybercafés, are the cheapest way of calling overseas.

Virtually all foreign nationals, including children, require a visa to enter India. Nationals of Bhutan and Nepal only require a suitable means of identification. The rules regarding visas change frequently and arrangements for application and collection also vary from town to town so it is essential to check details and costs with the relevant embassy or consulate. These remain closed on Indian national holidays. Now many consulates and embassies are outsourcing the visa process, it’s best to find out in advance how long it will take. For example, in London where you used to be able to get a visa in person in a morning if you were prepared to queue, it now takes 2-3 working days and involves 2 trips to the office.

At other offices, it can be much easier to apply in advance by post, to avoid queues and frustratingly low visa quotas. Postal applications can 15 working days to process.

Visitors from countries with no Indian representation may apply to the resident British representative, or enquire at the Air India office. An application on the prescribed form should be accompanied by 2 passport photographs and your passport which should be valid 6 months beyond the period of your visit. Note that visas are valid from the date granted, not from the date of entry. For up-to-date information on visa requirements visit http://www.india-visa.com.

No foreigner needs to register within the 180-day period of their tourist visa. All foreign visitors who stay in India for more than 180 days need to get an income tax clearance exemption certificate from the Foreign Section of the Income Tax Department in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata or Chennai.

Independent travel is still largely unheard of for Indian women. Although it is relatively safe for women to travel around India, most people find it an advantage to travel with a companion. Even then, privacy is rarely respected and there can be a lot of hassle, pressure and intrusion on your personal space, as well as some outright harassment. Backpackers setting out alone often meet like-minded travelling companions at budget hotels. Cautious women travellers recommend dying blonde hair black and wearing wedding rings, but the most important measure to ensure respect is to dress appropriately, in loose-fitting, non-see-through clothes, covering shoulders, arms and legs (such as a salwaar kameez, which can be made to fit in around 24 hrs for around Rs 400-800). Take advantage, too, of the gender segregation on public transport, to avoid hassle and to talk to local women. In mosques women should be covered from head to ankle. Independent Traveller, T0870-760 5001, www.independent traveller.com, runs women-only tours to India.

‘Eve teasing’, the euphemism for physical harassment, is an unfortunate result of the sexual repression latent in Indian culture, combined with a young male population whose only access to sex education is via the dingy cybercafés. Unaccompanied women are most vulnerable in major cities, crowded bazars, beach resorts and tourist centres where men may follow them and touch them; festival nights are particularly bad for this. Women have reported that they have been molested while being measured for clothing in tailors’ shops. If you are harassed, it can be effective to make a scene. Be firm and clear if you don’t wish to speak to someone. The best response to staring, whether lascivious or curious, is to avert your eyes down and away. This is not the submissive gesture it might seem, but an effective tool to communicate that you have no interest in any further interaction. Aggressively staring back or confronting the starer can be construed as a come-on. It is best to be accompanied at night, especially when travelling by rickshaw or taxi in towns. Be prepared to raise an alarm if anything unpleasant threatens.

It is best to arrange voluntary work well in advance with organizations in India (addresses are given in some towns, eg Delhi, Darjeeling, Dharamshala, Kolkata and Leh); alternatively, contact an organization abroad.

Apr Mahavir Jayanti. Baisakhi in North India.

Jan New Year’s Day (1 Jan) is accepted officially when following the Gregorian calendar but there are regional variations which fall on different dates, often coinciding with spring/ harvest time in Mar and Apr: Losar in Ladakh, Naba Barsha in Bengal (14 Apr), Goru in Assam, Ugadi in Andhra, Vishu in Kerala and Jamshed Navroj for the Parsi community. 14 Jan Makar Sankranti marks the end of winter and is celebrated with kite flying, especially in Gujarat. Pongal is Tamil Nadu’s harvest festival. 26 Jan Republic Day Parade in New Delhi. Communist-style display of military strength.

Feb Vasant Panchami, the spring festival when people wear bright yellow clothes to mark the advent of the season with singing, dancing and feasting. In Bengal it is also Saraswati Puja when the goddess of learning is worshipped. Desert Festival – Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. Nagaur Camel Fair in Rajasthan. Surajkund Crafts Mela in Haryana. Inter- national Yoga Festival in Rishikesh, Uttarak- hand. Elephanta Festival in Maharashtra. Konark Festival in Orissa.

Feb-Mar Maha Sivaratri marks the night when Siva danced his celestial dance of destruction (Tandava), which is celebrated with feasting and fairs at Siva temples, but preceded by a night of devotional readings and hymn singing. Carnival in Goa. Spectacular costumes, music and dance, float processions and feasting mark the 3-day event.

Mar Ellora Festival of Classical Dance and Music in Maharashtra. Khajuraho Dance Festival in Madhya Pradesh. Gangaur Mela in Rajasthan. Holi, the festival of colours, marks the climax of spring. The previous night bon- fires are lit in parts of North India symbolizing the end of winter (and conquering of evil). People have fun throwing coloured powder and water at each other and in the evening some gamble with friends. If you don’t mind getting covered in colours, you can risk going out but celebrations can sometimes get very rowdy (and unpleasant). Some worship Krishna who defeated the demon Putana.

Apr/May Buddha Jayanti, the first full moon night in Apr/May marks the birth of the Buddha. Pooram in Thrissur, Kerala; a grand spectacle staged by rival temples with elaborately ornamented elephants.

Jun/Jul Rath Yatra in Puri, Orissa. Hemis Festival in Leh, Ladakh. Teej in Jaipur, Rajasthan.

Jul/Aug Raksha (or Rakhi) Bandhan symbolizes the bond between brother and sister, celebrated mainly in North India at full moon. A sister says special prayers for her brother and ties coloured threads around his wrist to remind him of the special bond. He in turn gives a gift and promises to protect and care for her. Sometimes rakshas are exchanged as a mark of friendship. Narial Purnima on the same full moon. Hindus, particularly in coastal areas of West and South India, make offerings of narial (coconuts) to the Vedic god Varuna (Lord of the waters) by throwing them into the sea. 15 Aug is Independence Day, a national secular holiday is marked by special events, and in Delhi there is an impressive flag-hoisting ceremony at the Red Fort. Ganesh Chaturthi was established just over 100 years ago by the Indian nationalist leader Tilak. The elephant-headed God of good omen is shown special reverence. On the last of the 5-day festival after harvest, clay images of Ganesh are taken in procession with dancers and musicians, and are immersed in the sea, river or pond.

Aug/Sep Janmashtami, the birth of Krishna is celebrated at midnight at Krishna temples. Special festivities are held in Mathura his birth place and nearby at Vrindavan where Rasalilas (dance dramas) are performed all night.

Sep/Oct Dasara has many local variations. In North India, celebrations for the 9 nights (navaratri) are marked with Ramlila, various episodes of the Ramayana story are enacted with particular reference to the battle between the forces of good and evil. In some parts of India it celebrates Rama’s victory over the Demon king Ravana of Lanka with the help of loyal Hanuman (Monkey). Huge effigies of Ravana made of bamboo and paper are burnt on the 10th day (Vijaya dasami) of Dasara in public open spaces. other regions the focus is on Durga’s victory over the demon Mahishasura. Bengal celebrates Durga puja. Onam in Kerala.

Oct/Nov Gandhi Jayanti (2 Oct), Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday, is remembered with prayer meetings and devotional singing.

Diwali/Deepavali (Sanskrit ideepa lamp), the festival of lights, is celebrated particularly in North India. Some Hindus celebrate Krishna’s victory over the demon Narakasura, some Rama’s return after his 14 years’ exile in the forest when citizens lit his way with oil lamps. The festival falls on the dark chaturdasi (14th) night (the one preceding the new moon), when rows of lamps or candles are lit in remembrance, and rangolis are painted on the floor as a sign of welcome. Fireworks have become an integral part of the celebration which are often set off days before Diwali. Equally, Lakshmi, the Goddess of Wealth (as well as Ganesh) is worshipped by merchants and the business community who open the new financial year’s account on the day. Most people wear new clothes; some play games of chance.

In Bengal Kali Puja is celebrated the day before Diwali but is a distinct festival. Pushkar Fair in Rajasthan. Guru Nanak Jayanti commemorates the birth of Guru Nanak. Akhand Path (unbroken reading of the holy book) takes place and the book itself (Guru Granth Sahib) is taken out in procession. Sonepur Fair in Bihar.

These are fixed according to the lunar calendar . According to the Gregorian calendar, they tend to fall 11 days earlier each year, dependent on the sighting of the new moon.

Ramadan is the start of the month of fasting when all Muslims (except young children, the very elderly, the sick, pregnant women and travellers) must abstain from food and drink, from sunrise to sunset.

Id ul Fitr is the 3-day festival that marks the end of Ramadan.

Id-ul-Zuha/Bakr-Id is when Muslims commemorate Ibrahim’s sacrifice of his son according to God’s commandment; the main time of pilgrimage to Mecca

(the Hajj). It is marked by the sacrifice of a goat, feasting and alms giving.

Hindus follow two distinct eras: The Vikrama Samvat which began in 57 BC and the Salivahan Saka which dates from AD 78 and has been the official Indian calendar since 1957. The Saka new year starts on 22 March and has the same length as the Gregorian calendar. The 29½ day lunar month with its ‘dark’ and ‘bright’ halves based on the new and full moons, are named after 12 constellations, and total a 354-day year. The calendar cleverly has an extra month (adhik maas) every 2½-3 years, to bring it in line with the solar year of 365 days coinciding with the Gregorian calendar of the West.

India has a comprehensive network linking the major cities of the different states. Deregulation of the airline industry has had a transformative effect on travel within India, with a host of low-budget private carriers offering sometimes unbelievably cheap fares on an ever-expanding network of routes in a bid to woo the train-travelling middle class. Promotional fares as low as Rs 9 (US$0.20) are not unknown, though such numbers are rendered somewhat meaningless by additional taxes and fuel charges – an extra US$60-70 on most flights. On any given day, booking a few days in advance, you can expect to fly between Delhi and Mumbai for around US$90 one way including taxes.

Competition from the efficiently run private sector has, in general, improved the quality of services provided by the nationalized airlines. It also seems to herald the end of the two-tier pricing structure, meaning that ticket prices are now usually the same for foreign and Indian travellers. The airport authorities too have made efforts to improve handling on the ground.

Although flying is expensive, for covering vast distances or awkward links on a route it is an option worth considering, though delays and re-routing can be irritating. For short distances, and on some routes (eg Delhi–Agra–Delhi), it makes more sense to travel by train. If you don’t want to take a connecting flight down to Goa, the Konkan railway makes a pretty, and increasingly speedy, alternative. Don’t be tempted to take the bus.

The following were well established at the time of writing, although the pace of change is rapid:

Air Deccan, T011-3900 8888, http://www.deccanairlines.in. The best connected of the budget airlines, with flights to obscure destinations and ambitious expansion plans.

Go Air, T(0)9223-222111, http://www.goair.in. Comparable to SpiceJet, flies Delhi–Jaipur– Mumbai among other routes.

Indian Airlines, http://www.indianairlines.in. The nationalized carrier, with the widest network of routes. Subsidiary Alliance Air flies some of the oldest aircraft in Indian skies and has a poor safety record.

Indigo, T(0)9910-383838, http://www.goindigo.in. Comparable to SpiceJet.

Jagson Airlines, T011-2372 1593, www.jag sonairline.com. Flies from Delhi to a variety of Himalayan destinations, but a real challenge to book. Has a reputation for cancelling flights.

Jet Airways, T1800-225522, T011-3989 3333, http://www.jetairways.com. The longest- established of the private airlines, offering full-service domestic flights.

Kingfisher, T0124-284 4700 (toll free T1-800-209 3030, http://www.flykingfisher.com. Similar service and prices to Jet.

India is accessible by air from virtually every continent. Most international flights arrive in Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai or Kolkata. There are also international airports in several other cities (eg Ahmadabad, Thiruvananthapuram, Goa), some of which allow customs formalities to be completed there although the flight may be routed through a principal airport. Some carriers permit ‘open-jaw’ travel, arriving in, and departing from, different cities in India. Some (eg Air India, British Airways) have convenient non-stop flights from Europe, eg from London to Delhi, takes only nine hours.

Beggars are often found on busy street corners in large Indian cities, as well as at bus and train stations where they often target foreigners. In the larger cities, beggars are often exploited by syndicates which cream off most of their takings. Yet those seeking alms near religious sites are another matter, and you may see Indian worshippers giving freely to those less fortunate than themselves, since this is tied up with gaining ‘merit’. How you deal with begging is a matter of personal choice. Young children sometimes offer to do ‘jobs’ such as call a taxi, carry shopping or pose for a photo. You may want to give a coin in exchange. While travelling, some visitors prefer to hand out fruit to the many open-palmed children they encounter.

A pledge to donate a part of one’s holiday budget to a local charity could be an effective formula for ‘giving’. Some visitors like to support self-help cooperatives, orphanages, refugee centres, disabled or disadvantaged groups, or international charities like Oxfam, Save the Children or Christian Aid which work with local partners, by either making a donation or by buying their products. Some of these charities are listed under the appropriate towns. A few (which also welcome volunteers) are listed here.

Concern India Foundation, 6 K Dubash Marg, Mumbai, T022-2202 9708, http://www.Concernindia.org. An umbrella organization working with local charities.

Oxfam, 2nd floor, 1 Community Centre, New Friends Colony, New Delhi 110065, T011-4653 8000; 274 Banbury Rd, Oxford OX2 7D2, UK, http://www.oxfamindia.org (400 grassroots projects).

Salaam Baalak Trust, several centres in Mumbai and Delhi, www.salaambaalak trust.com. Set up by the team who made the movie Salaam Bombay 20 years ago, Salaam Baalak’s mission is to give streetkids the joys of childhood and prepare them for a productive adulthood – they offer food, shelter, education, vocational training. They hold dramas and dance events to raise awareness about community and health issues.

Save the Children India, 4th floor, Farm Bhawan, 14-15 Nehru Place, New Delhi 110019, T011-4229 4900.

Trek-Aid, 2 Somerset Cottages, Stoke Villages, Plymouth, Devon, PL3 4AZ, http://www.a38.com/trekaid. Health, education, etc, through self-help schemes for displaced Tibetan refugees.

Urmul Trust, Urmul Dairy, Ganganagar Rd, Bikaner, Rajasthan, T0151-252 2139. Healthcare, education and rural crafts in Rajasthani villages.

Visitors to all religious places should be dressed in clean, modest clothes; shorts and vests are inappropriate. Always remove shoes before entering (and all leather items in Jain temples). Take thick socks for protection when walking on sun-baked stone floors. Menstruating women are considered ‘unclean’ and should not enter places of worship. It is discourteous to sit with one’s back to a temple or shrine. You will be expected to sit cross-legged on the floor – avoid pointing your feet at others when attending prayers at a temple. Walk clockwise around a shrine (keeping it to your right).

Non-Hindus are sometimes excluded from the inner sanctum of Hindu temples and occasionally even from the temple itself. Look for signs or ask. In certain temples and on special occasions you may enter only if you wear unstitched clothing such as a dhoti.

In Buddhist shrines, turn prayer wheels in a clockwise direction. In Sikh gurudwaras, everyone should cover their head, even if it is with a handkerchief. Tobacco and cigarettes should not be taken in. In Muslim mosques, visitors should only have their face, hands and feet exposed; women should also cover their heads. Mosques may be closed to non-Muslims shortly before formal prayers.

Indian women in urban and rural areas differ in their social interactions with men. To the Westerner, Indian women may seem to remain in the background and appear shy when approached. Yet you will see them working in public, often in jobs traditionally associated with men in the West, in the fields or on construction sites. It is not considered polite for men to photograph women without their consent, so ask before you start snapping.

Two weeks Delhi (2) has both the British-built New Delhi and Shah Jahan’s 17th-century capital. The city also provides access to some of the most beautiful sights in the Himalayan foothills and awe-inspiring mountain peaks. You can fly to Shimla (2), the British summer capital, then continue by road to Dharamshala (3) associated with the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan settlement. Spend a night in Mandi (1) en route to Naggar (2) and Manali (4) for some trekking. Fly back to Delhi from Kullu and take the fast Shatabdi Express to Agra (1) for the Taj Mahal and splendid fort.

Northern tour This starts in Delhi (2) and goes via Bhopal (2) and Jabalpur (1) to Kanha (3), one of the most outstanding reserves in Central India, with a very rich habitat and still little visited. It continues to Khajuraho (2), where there is a chance to see magnificent 10th-century temples, en route to Agra’s (2) magnificent Taj Mahal and the abandoned city of Fatehpur Sikri before arriving at the peaceful bird sanctuary at Bharatpur (2), excellent for waterside birds.

Horse safaris

Between the new city and the River Yamuna, Shah Jahan built a fort. Most of it was built out of red lal (sandstone), hence the name Lal Qila (Red Fort), the same as that at Agra on which the Delhi fort is modelled. Begun in 1639 and completed in 1648, it is said to have cost Rs 10 million, much of which was spent on the opulent marble palaces within.

Southern tour This starts in Chennai (2) to visit the bird sanctuary of Vedanthangal and Mahabalipuram (2), by the sea, with its ancient temples. Then travel down to Trichy (2) to climb up the rock fort and see the great temple of Srirangam on the banks of the Kaveri. From there the route continues to the hill station of Coonoor (1) going up to Udhagamandalam (Ooty) (1) on the Blue Mountain Railway (if it is running), then on to the rich wildlife sanctuary of Mudumalai- Bandipur (3). Travelling north into Karnataka, you can visit the beautiful national park of Nagarhole (3).

YTemples, forts and palaces

Golden Temple, Amritsar

The spiritual nerve centre of the Sikh faith, every Sikh tries to make a visit to the temple and bathe in the holy water. It is an immensely powerful and spiritual experience, with an all-pervasive air of strength and self- sufficiency. Visitors of all faiths are welcome.

Jaisalmer Fort

On the roughly triangular-shaped Trikuta Hill, the fort stands 76 m above the town, enclosed by a 9-km wall with 99 bastions (mostly 1633-1647). Often called the Golden Fort because of the colour of its sandstone walls, it dominates the town. You enter the fort from the east from Gopa Chowk. The inner, higher fort wall and the old gates up the ramp (Suraj Pol, Ganesh Pol, Hawa Pol and Rang Pol) provided further defences. The Suraj Pol (1594), once an outer gate, is flanked by heavy bastions and has bands of decoration which imitate local textile designs.

Red Fort, Delhi

Taj Mahal, Agra

Of all the world’s great monuments, the Taj Mahal is one of the most written about, photographed, televised and talked about. To India’s Nobel Laureate poet, Tagore, the Taj was a “tear drop on the face of humanity”, a building to echo the cry “I have not forgotten, I have not forgotten, O beloved” and its mesmerizing power is such that despite the hype, no one comes away disappointed.

Hawa Mahal, Jaipur

The ‘Palace of the Winds’ (circa 1799) forms part of the east wall of the City Palace complex and is best seen from the street outside. Possibly Jaipur’s most famous building, this pink sandstone façade of the palace was built for the ladies of the harem by Sawai Pratap Singh. The five storeys stand on a high podium with an entrance from the west. The elaborate façade contains 953 small casements in a huge curve, each with a balcony and crowning arch. The windows enabled hawa (cool air) to circulate and allowed the women who were secluded in the zenana to watch processions below without being seen.

Hampi-Vijayanagar

Hampi, in Karnataka, is the site of the capital city of the Vijayanagar Hindu Empire that rose to conquer the entire south of India in the 14th century. It is an extraordinary site of desolate temples, compounds, stables and pleasure baths, surrounded by a stunning boulder-strewn landscape. Little of the kingdom’s riches remains; now the mud huts of gypsies squat under the boulders where noblemen once stood, and the double-decker shopfronts of the bazaar where diamonds were once traded by the kilo is now geared solely towards profiting from Western tourists and domestic pilgrims. Away from the bazaar, there is a unique romantic desolation. You’ll need at least a full day to do it justice.

YFestivals

Makar Sankranti

One date that remains constant is Makar Sankranti (14 January), marking the start of the northern journey of the sun. In West and North India this is the time of the Kite Festival. The clear blue winter sky comes alive with delicate tissue paper squares of every hue as children and adults skilfully manipulate the ends of their glass-encrusted threads to ‘cut‘ and down their rivals‘ kites.

Pongal

In the south, the winter festival is Pongal, the Tamil Harvest Thanksgiving, when cows and bulls are specially honoured in recognition of their invaluable contribution to village life. They are allowed to share the first rice which is ritually offered to the Sun God. Swathed in garlands, their long horns painted in vivid colours, the cattle are taken around neigh- bouring villages accompanied by bands of rustic musicians and cheering children.

Rath Yatra of Orissa

Under the blazing summer sun in June, the Raja of Puri, dressed as a humble servant of the gods, ceremonially sweeps the path before the massive wooden raths, or temple chariots, in the great Rath Yatra of Orissa in Eastern India. The chariot, drawn by hundreds of heaving men and watched by thousands of pilgrims, carries Jagannath and his brother and sister on their slow annual journey from the temple. This was the ceremony that led early English observers to borrow the name of the god for any apparently unstoppable vehicle, or ‘juggernaut‘.

Holi

Spring brings new hope and the promise of plenty. Holi, which coincides with the March/April full moon, is marked by the lighting of great bonfires to symbolize the triumph of good over evil in the burning of the insatiable demoness Holika, who demanded a diet of children. If you venture out you may find it hard to escape the coloured powder and water thrown in remembrance of the romantic Lord Krishna who engaged in similar playful games with his favourite milkmaids. Take great care though, as the revelry can get out of hand.

Navratri

The nine autumnal nights of Navratri in October culminate in the great Dasara celebration commemorating the victory of Rama over the supposedly invincible 10-headed King Ravana who had stolen his beautiful wife Sita. The Ramlila, drawing on Ramayana stories, is enacted for nine nights leading up to the 10th (dasara) when gigantic bamboo and paper effigies of the evil giant and his aides are set alight amidst great jubilation. Bengalis celebrate the festival by communal worship or Puja of the triumphant mother goddess Durga riding a lion who defeats the buffalo demon after a great battle. On the 10th night, her splendid image, together with those of her four children, is taken in procession by cheering crowds to be immersed in the waters of the holy river, returning clay to clay.

Diwali

Perhaps the most striking of all festivals is Diwali which follows soon after Navratri, on the dark night of the new moon in October-November, when row upon row of little clay oil lamps (now often enhanced by strings of electric bulbs) are lined up on window ledges and balconies, in remem- brance of the lights which greeted Rama‘s return after 14 years in exile. The night sky bursts out with spectacular displays of fireworks while deafening firecrackers take passers-by by surprise.

When to go

India is divided almost exactly in half by the Tropic of Cancer, stretching from the near- equatorial Kanniyakumari to the Mediter- ranean latitudes of Kashmir – roughly the same span as from the Amazon to San Francisco, or from Melbourne to Darwin. Not surprisingly, climate varies considerably and high altitudes further modify local climates.

In most of India, by far the best time to visit is from the end of the monsoon in October to the end of March. However, there are important exceptions. The hill stations in the Himalaya and the Western Ghats are beautiful in the hot months of April to early June. Parts of the western Himalaya can be excellent until September though it can be very cold and sometimes wet in the spring.

The monsoon season lasts from between three and five months depending on the region. If you are travelling in the wetter parts of India during the monsoon you need to be prepared for extended periods of torrential rain and disruption to travel. However, many parts of India receive a total of under 1000 mm a year, mainly in the form of heavy isolated showers. Rainfall generally decreases towards the northwest, Rajasthan and northern Gujarat merging imperceptibly into genuine desert. Tamil Nadu in the southeast has an exceptional rainfall pattern, receiving most of its rain in the period of the retreating monsoon, October to December.

Some of the country’s great festivals such as Dasara and Diwali (celebrated across India) and Pongal (celebrated in Tamil Nadu) take place in the autumn and winter. In Rajasthan, local camel and cattle fairs and the Desert Festival among the dunes are added attractions during these seasons.

Sport and activities

India has a wealth of opportunities for adventure sports. Such thrills can be combined with more conventional sightseeing. Apart from the activities listed here, you can also try ballooning, heli-skiing, hang-gliding, mountain or rock climbing and even motor rallying. There are even ski resorts in Himachal Pradesh (namely Manali and Narkanda) but don’t expect them to compare to Western resorts.

Birdwatching

http://www.delhibird.net, www.orientalbird club.org, http://www.sacon.org. Bird Link, biks@giasdl01.vsnl.net.in, is concerned with conservation of birds and their habitat.

The country’s diverse and rich natural habitats harbour over 1200 species of bird of which around 150 are endemic. Visitors to all parts of the country can enjoy spotting oriental species whether it is in towns and cities, in the countryside or more abundantly in the national parks and sanctuaries. On the plains, the cooler months (November to March) are the most comfortable for a chance to see migratory birds from the hills, but the highlands themselves are ideal between May and June and again after the monsoons when visibility improves in October and November. Water bodies large and small draw visiting waterfowl from other continents during the winter.

It is easy to get to some parks from the important tourist centres. A Birdwatcher’s Guide to India, by Krys Kazmierczak and Raj Singh (published by Prion Ltd, Sandy, Bedfordshire, UK, 1998), is well researched and comprehensive, with helpful practical information and maps.

Some prime spots include: Chilika Lake in Orissa; Keoladeo Ghana National Park in Rajasthan; Nalsarovar Bird Sanctuary in Gujarat; Pulicat Lake in Andhra Pradesh; Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary in Karnataka; Saharanpur Bird Sanctuary in Delhi; Taroba National Park in Maharashtra; and Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary in Tamil Nadu.

Camel safaris

Today’s camel safaris try to recreate something of the atmosphere of the early camel trains. The guides are expert navigators and the villages that are passed through along the way add colour to an unforgettable experience, if you are prepared to sit out the somewhat uncomfortable ride.

Cycling

Cycling offers a peaceful and healthy alter- native to cars, buses or trains. Touring on locally hired bicycles is possible along country roads – ideal if you want to see village life in India and the lesser-known wildlife parks. Consult a good Indian agent for advice. For example, a week’s cycling trip could cover about 250 km in the Garhwal foothills, starting in Rishikesh, passing through the Corbett and Rajaji national parks over easy gradients, to finish in Ramnagar. Expert guides, cycles and support vehicle, accommodation in simple rest houses or tents, are included.

Shekhawati and Kumbhalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary, pages 392 and 481.

Gaining in popularity, the conditions are similar to camel safaris with grooms (and often the horse owner) accompanying. The best months are November to March when it is cooler in the day (and often cold at night). The trails chosen usually enable you to visit small villages, old forts and temples, and take you through a variety of terrain and vegetation from scrub-covered arid plains to forested hills. The charges can be a lot higher than for a camel safari but the night stays are often in comfortable palaces, forts or havelis.

Watersports

Andaman Islands, page 853; Goa, page 1285; Lakshadweep, Minicoy and Amindivi Islands, page 1074.

Snorkelling, parasailing, windsurfing and waterskiing are popular along the long stretches of unspoilt coastal India. Scuba-diving centres are on Vainguinim Beach and Bogmalo in Goa, on Havelock Island and the Marine National Park in the Andamans, and on Bangaram in the Laccadives. Courses are well run and cost US$85 for an introductory dive, US$400 for 4 days, or US$600 for a 2-week Dive Master course. Coastal resorts in Kerala and Goa also offer fishing trips and dolphin viewing.

Whitewater rafting

For local operators.

The snow-fed rivers that flow through regions such as Sikkim offer excellent whitewater rafting. The popular waters range from Grades II-III for amateurs (Zanskar, Indus) to the greater challenges of Grades IV-VI for the experienced (eg Chenab, Beas, Sutlej, Rangit, Tons). Trips range from a half day to several days and allow a chance to see scenery, places and people off the beaten track. The trips are organized and managed by professional teams who have trained abroad. The rivers can sometimes be dangerous in August and September when the water levels are high.

Trekking in India

The Himalaya offers unlimited opportunities to view the natural beauty of mountains, unique flora and fauna and the diverse groups of people who live in the ranges and valleys, many of whom have retained cultural identities because of their isolation. The treks described in this book are only for guidance. They try to give a flavour of an area or a destination. Some trails fall within the ‘Inner Line’ for which special permits are required .

Types of trekking

There are some outstandingly beautiful treks, though they are often not through the wilderness that ‘trekking in the Himalaya’ conjures up. Nevertheless, trekking alone is not recommended as you will be in unfamiliar territory where you may not be able to communicate with the local people and if injured help may not be at hand. Independent trekkers should get a specialist publication with detailed route descriptions and a good map. Remember, mountain topography is subject to constant change, and tracks and crossings can be affected very rapidly. Speak to those who know the area well and have been trekking to the places you intend to visit.

Backpacking/camping Hundreds of people arrive each year with a pack and some personal equipment, buy some food and set off trekking, carrying their own gear and choosing their own campsites or places to stay. Serious trekkers will need a framed backpack. Supplies of fuel wood are scarce and flat ground suitable for camping rare. It is not always easy to find isolated and ‘private’ campsites.

Trekking without a tent Although common in Nepal, only a few trails in India offer the ease and comfort of this option. Exceptions are the Singalila Ridge trail in the Darjeeling area, the Sikkim Khangchend- zonga trek, the Markha Valley trek in Ladakh and some lower-elevation trails around Shimla and Manali. On these, it is often possible to stay in trekking huts or in simple village homes. You carry clothes and bedding, as with youth hostelling and, for a few rupees a night you get a space on the floor, a wooden pallet or a camp bed or, in the more luxurious inns, a room and shower. The food is simple, usually vegetable curry, rice and dhal which, although repetitive, is healthy and often tasty. This approach brings you into closer contact with the local population, the limiting factor being the routes where accommodation is available.

Locally organized treks Porters can usually be hired through an agent in the town or village at the start of a trek. Porters hired in the bazaar may be cheaper than agency porters but can be unreliable. Make sure they are experienced in carrying loads over distances at high altitude. They will help carry your baggage, sometimes cook for you, and communicate with the local people. A good porter will know the area and some can tell you about local customs and point out interesting details en route. Away from roads, the footpath is the principal line of communication between villages. Tracks tend to be well graded and in good condition. In remoter areas away from all habitation, tracks may be indistinct and a local guide is recommended. Although some porters speak a little English (or another foreign language) you may have communication problems and misunderstandings. Remember, you may be expected to provide your porter’s warm clothing and protective wear including shoes, gloves and goggles on high-altitude treks.

Hiring a sardar (mountain guide) and crew is more expensive but worthwhile since they will speak some English, take care of engaging porters and cooks, arrange for provisions and sort out all logistical problems. A sardar will cost more and although they may be prepared to carry a load, their principal function will be as a guide and overseer for the porters. Make sure your sardar is experienced in the area you will be travelling in and can provide references which are their own and not borrowed.

Using a trekking agent Trekking agents based in Delhi or at hill stations (eg Dehradun, Shimla, Manali, Dharamshala, Leh, Darjeeling, Gangtok) will organize treks for a fee and provide a sardar, porters, cooks, food and equipment, but it requires effort and careful thought on your part. This method can be excellent and is recommended for a group, preferably with some experience, that wants to follow a specific itinerary. In some areas, a pre-arranged itinerary must be followed, as required by the government, and to allow porters to arrive at certain points on schedule. You can make arrangements from abroad in advance; often a protracted business with faxes and emails. Alternatively, wait until you get to India but allow at least a week to make arrangements.

Fully organized and escorted treks This is where a company or individual with local knowledge and expertise organizes a trip and sells it. Some or all camping equipment, food, cooking, decision-making based on progress and weather conditions, liaison with porters, shopkeepers, etc, are taken care of. When operating abroad, the agency may take care of all travel arrangements, ticketing, visas and permits. This option has the advantage of being a good, safe introduction to the country. You will be able to travel with limited knowledge of the region and its culture and get to places you may not have reached alone and without the expense of completely kitting yourself out. You should take full note of any advice in the preparatory material you are sent, as your enjoyment greatly depends on it.

An escorted trek will involve going with a group; you will camp together but not necessarily walk together. If you are willing to trade some of your independence for careful, efficient organization and make the effort to ensure the group works well together, the experience can be very rewarding. Ideally there should be no more than 20 trekkers (preferably around 12). Companies have reputations to maintain and try to comply with Western concepts of hygiene. Before booking, check the itinerary – is it too demanding, or not adventurous enough? Is the leader qualified and familiar with the route? Also make sure both you and the trekking company understand exactly who is to provide what equipment.

Trekking seasons

These vary with the area you plan to visit and the elevation. Autumn is best in most parts of the Himalaya though March to May can be pleasant. The monsoons (mid-June to end-September) can obviously be very wet and localized thunderstorms can occur at any time, particularly in the spring and summer. Start your trek early in the morning as the monsoon approaches. It often continues to rain heavily up to mid-October in the eastern Himalaya. The Kullu valley is unsuitable for trekking during the monsoons but areas beyond the central Himalayan range, eg Ladakh, Zanskar, Lahul and Spiti, are largely unaffected. Be prepared for extremes in temperatures in all seasons and come prepared with light clothing as well as enough waterproof protection. Winters can be exceptionally cold; high passes can be closed and you will need more equipment. Winter treks on all but a few low-altitude ones (up to 3200 m) are only recommended for the experienced trekker accompanied by a knowledgeable local guide.

Trekking permits

Trekking is permitted in all areas other than those described as Restricted or Protected and within the ‘Inner Line‘; you may not go close to the international boundary in many places. Often, destinations falling within these ‘sensitive‘ zones, which have recently been opened for trekking, require treks to be organized by a recognized Indian travel agent for groups of at least four, travelling on a specified route, accompanied by a representative/liaison officer. Sometimes there are restrictions on the maximum number of days, season and type of transport used. The ‘Inner Line‘ runs parallel and 40 km inside the international boundary. Kaza (Himachal Pradesh) , how- ever, is now open to group trekkers though overnight stays are not allowed at Puh, Khabo or Sumdo. Other areas now open to tourists include Kalindi Khal (Garhwal), Milam Glacier (Kumaon), Khardung La, Tso Moriri and Pangong (Ladakh), Tsangu Lake, Lachung and Yumthang (Sikkim) and Kameng Valley (Arunachal Pradesh). On arrival in India, government-approved trekking agencies can obtain permits relatively easily, usually within three or four days. It can be much slower applying for trekking permits from abroad and may also slow down your visa application. Some restricted areas are still totally closed to foreigners. For other restricted areas, permits are issued at the Foreigners‘ Regional Registration Offices in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai (and sometimes at a local FRRO), from immigration officers at some points of entry, and sometimes at the district magistrate‘s. There are also entrance fees for the various national parks and conservation areas which can be as much as Rs 350 for foreigners.

Himalayan environment trust code of practice

Deforestation Do not make open fires and discourage others from making one for you. Limit use of firewood and heated water and use only permitted dead wood. Choose accommodation where kerosene or fuel-efficient wood-burning stoves are used.

Litter Remove it. Burn or bury paper and carry away non-degradable litter. If you find other people’s litter, remove it too. Pack food in biodegradable containers.

Plants Do not take cuttings, seeds and roots – it is illegal in all parts of the Himalaya.

Water Keep local water clean. Do not use detergents and pollutants in streams and springs. Where there are no toilets be sure you are at least 30 m away from a water source and bury or cover. Do not allow cooks or porters to throw rubbish in streams and rivers.

Begging Giving to children can encourage begging. Donations to a project, health centre or school may be more constructive.

Be aware of local traditions and cultures; respect peoples’ privacy, and ask permission before taking photographs; respect holy places, never touching or removing religious objects, and removing shoes before entering temples; be aware of local etiquette, dressing modestly particularly when visiting temples and shrines and, while walking through villages, avoiding shorts, skimpy tops and tight-fitting outfits.

How big is your footprint?

The travel industry is growing rapidly and increasingly the impact is becoming apparent. This can seem remote and unrelated to an individual trip or holiday, but air travel is clearly implicated in global warming and damage to the ozone layer and resort location and construction can destroy natural habitats and restrict traditional rights and activities. With this in mind, individual choice and awareness can make a difference in many instances; collectively, travellers can have a significant effect in shaping a more responsible and sustainable industry. In an attempt to promote awareness of and credibility for responsible tourism, organizations such as Green Globe 21 (http://www.greenglobe21.com) offer advice on selecting destinations and sites that aim to achieve certain commitments to conservation and sustainable development. Generally these are larger mainstream destinations and resorts but they are still a useful guide and increasingly aim to provide information on smaller operations. Of course travel can have beneficial impacts and this is something to which every traveller can contribute – many national parks are part funded by receipts from visitors. Similarly, travellers can support small-scale enterprises by staying in locally run hotels and hostels, eating in local restaurants and by buying local goods, supplies and crafts.

Travelling light

As well as respecting local cultural sensitivities, travellers can take a number of simple steps to reduce, or even improve, their impact on the local environment. Environmental concern is relatively new in India. Don’t be afraid to pressurize businesses by asking about their policies.

c Litter Many travellers think that there is little point in disposing of rubbish properly when the tossing of water bottles, plastic cups and other non-biodegradable items out of train windows is already so widespread. Don’t follow an example you feel to be wrong. You can immediately reduce your impact by refusing plastic bags and other excess packaging when shopping – use a small backpack or cloth bag instead – and if you do collect a few, keep them with you to store other rubbish until you get to a litter bin.

c Filtered water or bottled water Plastic mineral water bottles, an inevitable corollary to poor water hygiene standards, are a major contributor to India’s litter mountain. However, many hotels, including nearly all of the upmarket ones, most restaurants and bus and train stations, provide drinking water purified using a combination of ceramic and carbon filters, chlorine and UV irradiation. Ask for ‘filter paani’; if the water tastes like a swimming pool it is probably quite safe to drink, though it’s best to introduce your body gradually to the new water. If purifying water yourself, bringing it to a boil at sea level will make it safe, but at altitude you have to boil it for longer to ensure that all the microbes are killed. Various sterilizing methods can be used that contain chlorine (eg Puritabs) or iodine (eg Pota Aqua) and there are a number of mechanical or chemical water filters available on the market.

c Bucket baths or showers The biggest issue relating to responsible and sustainable tourism is water. Much of northwest India is afflicted by severe water restrictions, with certain cities in Rajasthan and Gujarat having water supply for as little as 20 minutes a day. The traditional Indian ‘bucket bath’, in which you wet, soap then rinse off using a small hand-held plastic jug dipped into a large bucket, uses on average around 15 litres of water, as compared to 30-45 for a shower. These are commonly offered except in four- and five-star hotels.

c Support responsible tourism Spending your money carefully can have a positive impact. Sleeping, eating and shopping at small, locally owned businesses directly supports communities, while specific community tourism concerns, such as those operated by The Blue Yonder in Kerala and Village Ways in Uttarakhand , provide an economic motivation for people to stay in remote communities, protect natural areas and revive traditional cultures, rather than exploit the environment or move to the cities for work.

c Transport Choose walking, cycling or public transport over fuel-guzzling cars and motorbikes.

Sustainable tourism projects

In a country of a billion people, conservation efforts can only succeed when they bring real, tangible benefits to local communities, while eco-tourism worthy of the name also has to provide you, the traveller, with an unforgettable experience. The following ventures in sustainable tourism are among India’s very best.

The Blue Yonder, River Nila, Kerala

The River Nila flows through some of Kerala’s richest scenic and cultural landscapes, exercising a Ganga-like influence over the spiritual and artistic life of northern Kerala. The Blue Yonder’s tours, born of a desire to halt degradation of the river, have had a transformative effect on local cultures. Journeying by jeep, hand-propelled thoni boat and bamboo raft, passionate local guides introduce guests to classical musicians, snake worshippers and sand miners, and decode unforgettable folk performances a million miles removed from the tourist spectacle proffered by the big resorts. In doing so, the tours demonstrate – to the locals as much as travellers – that the river and its traditions are integral elements of a sustainable, fruitful future. For further information, see http://www.theblueyonder.com.

Anant Van, Bandhavgarh NP, Madhya Pradesh

Anant Van epitomizes the inter-relationship between forests, the community and tourism. A self-described ‘homestay’ of two earth- and-stone cottages and two tented cottages, the atmosphere is a cross between rustic-chic resort, ashram and organic farm. The building materials, as well as being locally sourced and sustainable, are intentionally designed to be degradable so as to ensure a continuous supply of work for local craftsmen. Guests are encouraged to look beyond the standard tiger tours and become heartily involved in social and environmental ventures, from restoring natural forest cover on the 9-ha property to sharing knowledge with kids at a nearby school. For further information, see http://www.anantvan.com.

Sikkim homestays

This project, planted in four remote villages in the sublime mountain landscape of Sikkim, takes the time-honoured B&B concept and transposes it to a Himalayan stage: you stay as a family guest, sharing meals around their kitchen table, joining in the cardamom harvest, and toasting new-found friendships over gourds of hot, head-lightening chhang. Each village runs its homestay program independently, but all share the principle of spreading income fairly among the community, while deliberately limiting the scale of the operation to maintain the authentic village atmosphere. For further information, see http://www.sikkimfoundation.org.

Village Ways, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

Village Ways offers extended walking holidays in the peaceful and stunningly beautiful Himalayan foothills around Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary. Guests explore the oak, pine and rhododendron forests in the company of trained local guides, and spend each night in a traditional-style guesthouse, built, owned and managed by the local village tourism committee. Lodgings are simple but comfort- able, and give a flavour of the Kumaoni way of life while incorporating modern refinements such as solar water heating and lighting. The five villages involved benefit from a strong sense of community ownership, heightened awareness of environmental issues and, crucially, a sustainable source of wealth in a region that until recently offered few opportunities. For further information, see http://www.villageways.com.

Sunderbans Jungle Camp, West Bengal

This rustic eco-resort supports a number of social development programmes in the Sunderbans region, the last strong- hold of the fearsome, amphibious Royal Bengal tiger. The lodge was initially established to finance a group of poachers- turned-conservation-volunteers; it now provides an income to villagers in a region where poaching and revenge killings of tigers were rife. Tourist rupees are also funnelled into medical camps, book banks and an evening school for the adjacent village. The lodge is jointly managed by Kolkata-based Help Tourism, who run an intriguing array of eco-tours throughout northeast India. For further information, see http://www.helptourism.com.

Shaam-e-Sarhad, Hodka, Gujarat

Set in northwest Kachchh, one of India’s driest and furthest-flung regions, Shaam-e- Sarhad offers a chance to stay in a traditional mud-walled bhunga and meet the tribal craftswomen who produce some of India’s most exquisite embroidery. Guided by interpreters from Hodka village, guests can interact directly with local people, and learn the finer points of Kachchhi handicrafts in workshops with the artisans. Hodka is part of a government project supporting similar village tourism enterprises in Orissa, Bihar, Andhra Pradesh and elsewhere.

India on page and screen

Books to read

VS Naipaul’s A Million Mutinies Now (Penguin, 1992) is a ‘revisionist’ account of India which turns away from the despondency of his earlier two India books (An Area of Darkness and India: a wounded civilisation). RK Narayan has written many gentle and humorous novels and short stories of South India such as The Man-eater of Malgudi, Under the Banyan Tree and The Grandmother’s Tale (London, Penguin, 1985). Arundhati Roy’s The God of Small Things (Indian Ink/Harper Collins, 1997) is an excellent first novel about family turmoil in a Syrian Christian household in Kerala. Salman Rushdie’s Midnight’s Children (London, Picador, 1981) is a novel of India since Independence, offering at the same time funny and bitterly sharp critiques of South Asian life in the 1980s. The Moor’s Last Sigh (Viking, 1996) which is of particular interest to those travelling to Kochi and Mumbai. Vikram Seth’s A Suitable Boy (Phoenix House London, 1993) is a prize-winning novel of modern Indian life. William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns (Indus/Harper Collins, 1993, paperback) is a superb account of Delhi, based on a year living in the city, while The Age of Kali, published in edited form in India as In the Court of the Fish-eyed Goddess, is his second anecdotal but insightful account.

Films to watch

Salaam Bombay

A darker, grittier cousin to Slumdog Millionaire, this is the heartbreaking tale of a country boy’s encounters with drug addicts, thieves, pimps and the police, as he struggles to survive the big city and earn a measly Rs 500 to send to his mother.

Water

In 1930s Varanasi, a child widow, a young prostitute and a devout older woman challenge the structures that shunned Hindu widows who refused to burn with their husbands in sati. The powerful and beautiful final instalment of Deepa Mehta’s Elements trilogy had to be filmed in Sri Lanka after protesters threw the original Varanasi film set into the Ganga.

Lagaan

If you think cricket is boring, this 2001 classic might change your mind. Aamir Khan, Bollywood’s De Niro, leads a team of drought-stricken Gujarati farmers in a desperate match against the brutal Captain Russell. If they lose, Russell gets to double their land tax and ruin the village. If they win, the raj loses face and its taxes.

Pather Panchali