South America travel guide

People contemplating overland travel in South America with children should remember that a lot of time can be spent waiting for public transport. Even then, buses can de delayed on the journey. Travel on trains allows more scope for moving about, but trains are few and far between these days. In many cases trains are luxurious and much more expensive than buses. If hiring a car, check that it has rear seat belts.

Dawood, R, editor, Travellers’ health, 3rd ed, Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2002.

Warrell, David, and Sarah Anderson, editors, Expedition Medicine, The Royal Geographic Society, ISBN 1 86197 040-4.

The major risks posed in the region are those caused by insect disease carriers such as mosquitoes and sandflies. The key parasitic and viral diseases are malaria, South American trypanosomiasis (Chagas’ disease) and dengue fever. Be aware that you are always at risk from these diseases. Malaria is a danger throughout the lowland tropics and coastal regions. Dengue fever (which is currently rife in Rio de Janeiro state in Brazil and in Paraguay) is particularly hard to protect against as the mosquitoes can bite throughout the day as well as night (unlike those that carry malaria); try to wear clothes that cover arms and legs and also use effective mosquito repellent. Mosquito nets dipped in permethrin provide a good physical and chemical barrier at night. Chagas’ disease is spread by faeces of the triatomine, or assassin bugs, whereas sandflies spread a disease of the skin called leishmaniasis.

Some form of diarrhoea or intestinal upset is almost inevitable, the standard advice is always to wash your hands before eating and to be careful with drinking water and ice; if you have any doubts about the water then boil it or filter and treat it. In a restaurant buy bottled water or ask where the water has come from. Food can also pose a problem, be wary of salads if you don’t know whether they have been washed or not.

There is a constant threat of tuberculosis (TB) and although the BCG vaccine is available, it is still not guaranteed protection. It is best to avoid unpasteurized dairy products and try not to let people cough and splutter all over you.

One of the major problems for travellers in the region is altitude sickness. It is essential to get acclimatized to the thin air of the Andes before undertaking long treks or arduous activities. The altitude of the Andes means that strong protection from the sun is always needed, regardless of how cool it may feel.

http://www.who.int World Health Organisation.

http://www.cdc.gov Centres for Disease Control and Prevention (USA).

http://www.dh.gov.uk/en/Policyandguidance/ Healthadvicefortravellers/index.htm Department of Health advice for travellers.

http://www.fitfortravel.scot.nhs.uk Fit for Travel (UK), a site from Scotland providing a quick A-Z of vaccine and travel health advice requirements for each country.

http://www.fco.gov.uk Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO), UK.

http://www.itg.be Prince Leopold Institute for Tropical Medicine.

If you are going to Brazil, you should learn some Portuguese. Spanish is not adequate: you may be understood but you will probably not be able to understand the answers. Language classes are available cheaply in a number of centres in South America, for instance Quito.

AmeriSpan, 1334 Walnut St, 6th Floor, Phila- delphia, PA 19107 (PO Box 58129) T215-751 1100 (worldwide), T1-800-879-6640 (USA), SKYPE: amerispan, http://www.amerispan.com, offers Spanish immersion programmes, educational tours, volunteer and internship positions throughout Latin America. Language programmes are offered in Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela.

Languages Abroad.com, 386 Ontario St, Toronto, Ontario, Canada, M5A 2V7, T416-925 2112, toll free T1-800-219 9924 (T0800-404 7738 – UK), http://www.languagesabroad.com, offers Spanish and Portuguese programmes in every South American country except Paraguay and Uruguay. They also have language immersion courses throughout the world.

Cactus, T0845-130 4775, www.cactus language.com.

Remember that politeness – even a little ceremoniousness – is much appreciated. Men should always remove any headgear and say “con permiso” (“com licença” in Brazil) when entering offices, and be prepared to shake hands (this is much more common in Latin America than in Europe or North America); always say “Buenos días” (until midday) or “Buenas tardes” (“Bom dia” or “Boa tarde” in Brazil) and wait for a reply before proceeding further. Always remember that the traveller from abroad has enjoyed greater advantages in life than most Latin American minor officials and should be friendly and courteous in consequence. Never be impatient. Do not criticize situations in public; the officials may know more English than you think and they can certainly interpret gestures and facial expressions. Be judicious about discussing politics with strangers. Politeness can be a liability, however, in some situations; most Latin Americans are disorderly queuers. In commercial transactions (eg buying goods in a shop), politeness should be accompanied by firmness, and always ask the price first (arguing about money in a foreign language can be very difficult).

The main ways of keeping in funds while travelling are with cash, either US dollars or, in a growing number of places, euros; credit cards/debit cards; US dollars traveller’s cheques (Tcs, increasingly hard to exchange). Sterling and other currencies are not recommended. Though the risk of loss is greater, the chief benefit of US$ notes is that better rates and lower commissions can usually be obtained for them. In many countries, US$ notes are only accepted if they are in excellent, if not perfect condition (likewise, do not accept local currency notes in poor condition). Low-value US$ bills should be carried for changing into local currency if arriving in a country when banks or casas de cambio (exchange shops) are closed (US$5 or US$10 bills). They are very useful for shopping: shopkeepers and casas de cambio tend to give better exchange rates than hotels or banks . The better hotels will normally change TCs for their guests (often at a poor rate), but if you are travelling on the cheap it is essential to keep in funds. At weekends, on public holidays and when travelling off the beaten track always have plenty of local currency, preferably in small denominations. When departing by air, make sure you can pay the airport departure tax which, unless included in your ticket price, is never waived.

Emergency contact numbers for credit card loss or theft are given in the relevant country. It is straightforward to obtain a cash advance against a credit card. Many banks are also linked to one, if not both of the main international ATM acceptance systems, Plus and Cirrus. Coverage is not uniform throughout the continent, though, so it may be wise to take two types of cards. Frequently, the rates of exchange on ATM withdrawals are the best available. Find out before you leave what ATM coverage there is in the countries you will visit and what international ‘functionality’ your card has. Check if your bank or credit card company imposes handling charges. Obviously you must ensure that the account to which your debit card refers contains sufficient funds. Before travelling, it may be worth setting up two bank accounts: one with all your funds but no debit card, the other with no funds but which does have a debit card. As you travel, use the internet to transfer money from the full account to the empty account when you need it and withdraw cash from an ATM. That way, if your debit card is stolen, you won’t be at risk of losing all your capital.

By using a debit card rather than a credit card you incur fewer bank charges, although a credit card is needed as well for some purchases. With a credit card, obtain a credit limit sufficient for your needs, or pay money in to put the account in credit. If travelling for a long time, consider a direct debit to clear your account regularly. Do not rely on one card, in case of loss. If you do lose a card, immediately contact the 24-hr helpline of the issuer in your home country (keep this number in a safe place).

South America has more local and community radio stations than nearly anywhere else in the world; a short wave (world band) radio offers a practical means to brush up on the language, sample popular culture and absorb some of the richly varied regional music. International broadcasters such as the BBC World Service, the Voice of America, Boston- (Mass) based Monitor Radio International (operated by Christian Science Monitor) and the Quito-based Evangelical station, HCJB, keep you abreast of news and events, in both English and Spanish.

Generally speaking, most places in South America are no more dangerous than any major city in Europe or North America. In provincial towns, main places of interest, on daytime buses and in ordinary restaurants the visitor should be quite safe. Nevertheless, in large cities (particularly in crowded places, eg bus stations, markets), crime exists, most of which is opportunistic. If you are aware of the dangers, act confidently and use your common sense, you will lessen many of the risks. The following tips are all endorsed by travellers. Keep all documents secure; hide your main cash supply in different places or under your clothes: extra pockets sewn inside shirts and trousers, pockets closed with a zip or safety pin, moneybelts (best worn under rather than outside your clothes at the waist), neck or leg pouches, a thin chain for attaching a purse to your bag or under your clothes and elasticated support bandages for keeping money above the elbow or below the knee. Be extra vigilant when withdrawing cash from an ATM: ensure you are not being watched; never give your card to anyone, however smart he may look or plausible he may sound as a ‘bank employee’ wishing to swipe your card to check for problems. Keep cameras in bags; take spare spectacles (eyeglasses); don’t wear expensive wristwatches or jewellery. If you wear a shoulder- bag in a market, carry it in front of you.

Ignore mustard smearers and paint or shampoo sprayers, and strangers’ remarks like “what’s that on your shoulder?” or “have you seen that dirt on your shoe?” Furthermore, don’t bend over to pick up money or other items in the street. These are all ruses to distract your attention and make you easy prey for an accomplice. Take local advice about being out at night and, if walking after dark, walk in the road, not on the pavement/sidewalk.

It is worth knowing that genuine police officers only have the right to see your passport (not your money, tickets or hotel room). Before handing anything over, ask why they need to see it and make sure you understand the reason. Insist on seeing identification and on going to the police station by main roads. On no account take them directly back to your lodgings. Be even more suspicious if he seeks confirmation of his status from a passer-by. A related scam is for a ‘tourist’ to gain your confidence, then accomplices create a reason to check your documents. If someone tries to bribe you, insist on a receipt. If attacked, remember your assailants may well be armed, and try not to resist.

Leave any valuables you don’t need in safe- deposit in your hotel when sightseeing locally. Always keep an inventory of what you have deposited. If there is no safe, lock your bags and secure them in your room (some people take eyelet-screws for padlocking cupboards or drawers). Hostels with shared rooms should provide secure, clean lockers for guests. If you lose valuables, always report to the police and note details of the report – for insurance purposes.

It is better to seek security advice before you leave from your own consulate than from travel agencies. You can contact:

British Foreign and Commonwealth Office, Travel Advice Unit, T0845 850 2829 (travel advice), 020-7008 1500 (consular assistance from abroad). Footprint is a partner in the Foreign and Commonwealth Office’s Know before you go campaign, http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel.

Website addresses for individual countries are given in the relevant chapter’s Planning your trip sections and throughout the text.

http://www.bootsnall.com/South-America Online travel guides for South America, updated monthly.

http://gosouthamerica.about.com/ Articles and links on sights, planning, countries, culture, gay and lesbian travel.

http://www.lanic.utexas.edu The Latin American Network Information Center: loads of information on everything.

http://www.lata.org Lists tour operators, hotels, airlines, etc. Has a useful (free) guide which can also be ordered by phoning T020-8715 2913.

http://www.oas.org The Organization of American States site, with its magazine Americas.

http://www.planeta.com Ron Mader’s website contains masses of useful information on ecotourism, conservation, travel, news, the web, language schools and articles.

http://www.rainforest-alliance.org Working for conservation and sustainability in Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Uruguay and Venezuela.

http://www.virtualtourist.com/f/4/ South America travel forum, which can take you down some interesting alleyways, lots of links, trips, etc; good exploring here.

The continent has an extensive road system with frequent bus services. The buses are often comfortable; the difficulties of Andean terrain affect the quality of vehicles. In mountainous country do not expect buses to get to their destination after long journeys anywhere near on time. Do not turn up for a bus at the last minute; if it is full it may depart early. Tall travellers are advised to take aisle rather than window seats on long journeys as this allows more leg room. When the journey takes more than three or four hours, meal stops at roadside restaurants (usually with toilets), good and bad, are the rule. Usually, no announcement is made on the duration of a stop; ask the driver and follow him, if he eats, eat. For drinks, stick to bottled water or soft drinks or coffee (black). The food sold by vendors at bus stops may be all right; watch if locals are buying, though unpeeled fruit is, of course, reliable.

A useful organization is Cyclo-Accueil-Cyclo (Marie-Claude Mimeau et Arnaud Jannière, 6 rue du petit village, 17370 Le Grand Village Plage, France, http://www.cci.asso.fr) an organization of long-haul tourers who open their homes for free to passing cyclists.

Unless you are planning a journey almost exclusively on paved roads – when a touring bike would suffice – a mountain bike is strongly recommended. The good quality ones (and the cast-iron rule is never to skimp on quality) are incredibly tough and rugged, with low gear ratios for difficult terrain, wide tyres with plenty of tread for good road-holding, V brakes, sealed hubs and bottom bracket and a low centre of gravity for improved stability. A chrome-alloy frame is a desirable choice over aluminium as it can be welded if necessary. Although touring bikes, and to a lesser extent mountain bikes and spares are available in the larger Latin American cities, remember that most locally manufactured goods are shoddy and rarely last. In some countries, such as Chile and Uruguay, imported components can be found but they tend to be extremely expensive. (Shimano parts are generally the easiest to find.) Buy everything you possibly can before you leave home.

Flight Centre, with offices throughout Australia and other countries. In Australia call T133 133 or http://www.flightcentre.com.au.

STA Travel, T134 782, http://www.statravel.com.au; branches throughout Australia. In NZ: T0800-474400, http://www.statravel.co.nz. 130 Cuba St, Wellington, T04-385 0561. Also in major towns and university campuses.

Discount Airfares Worldwide On-Line, http://www.etn.nl/discount.htm. A hub of consolidator and discount agent links.

STA Travel, 1-800-781-4040, http://www.statravel.com. 18 branches in the USA, including university campuses.

Travel CUTS, in major Canadian cities and on university campuses, T1-866-246-9762, www.travel cuts.com. Specialist in student discount fares, IDs and other travel services.

STA Travel, T0871-230 0040, http://www.statravel.co.uk. 45 branches in the UK, including many university campuses. Specialists in low-cost flights and tours, good for student IDs and insurance.