Ecuador travel guide

Ridgely, R and Greenfield, P, Birds of Ecuador (Cornell University Press, Ithaca, NY, USA, 2001).

Canaday, C and Jost, L, Common Birds of Amazonian Ecuador (Ediciones Libri Mundi, Quito, 1997).

Cooper, M and Gellis, R, Plumas (Latin Web, 2006).

Hilty, S, Birds of Tropical America (Chapters Publishing, Shelburne, VT, USA).

Hilty, S and Brown, W, A Guide to the Birds of Colombia (Princeton University Press, USA, 1986).

Moore, J, CDs of Ecuadorean birdsongs. Available at Libri Mundi in Quito.

Brain, Y, Ecuador: A Climbing Guide (The Mountaineers, Seattle, 2000).

Cruz, M, Montañas del Ecuador (Dinediciones, Quito, 1993) and Die Schneeberge Ecuador.

There are a great many gorgeous photo collections of Ecuador. Among the most original and beautiful are:

Anhalzer, J, Ecuador as Seen from Space (and Guevara Nogales, M, Imprenta Mariscal, Quito, 2003); and The High Andes of Ecuador (Imprenta Mariscal, Quito, 2008).

de Roy, T, Los Andes a Vuelo de Cóndor (Ediciones Libri Mundi, 2005).

Kane, J, Savages (Vintage Books, New York, 1996).

Kimerling, J, Amazon Crude (Natural Resource Defense Council, 1991; Spanish translation, Abya-Yala, 2006).

Latorre, O, La Expedición a la Canela y el Descubrimiento del Amazonas (1995).

Perkins, J, Confessions of an Economic Hit Man (Berrett-Koehler, 2004).

Smith, A, The Lost Lady of the Amazon (Constable, UK, 2003).

Smith, R, Crisis Under the Canopy (Abya- Yala, Quito).

Barrera Valverde, A, El País de Manuelito (Editorial El Conejo, Quito, 1981).

Condamine, C, Diario del viaje al Ecuador (1745; N Gómez ed, Ediguias, Quito, 1994).

Hassaurek, F, Four Years among the Ecuadorians (1867; Southern Illinois University Press, 1967; Cuatro Años Entre Los Ecuatorianos, Abya-Yala, Quito, 1997).

Honigsbaum, M, Valverde’s Gold (Macmillan, London, 2004).

Lafond de Lurcy, G, Viajero y testigo de la historia ecuatoriana (Banco Central del Ecuador, Quito, 1988).

Lara, D, Viajeros franceses al Ecuador en el siglo XIX (Casa de la Cultura Ecuatoriana, Quito, 1972).

Lourie, P, Sweat of the Sun, Tears of the Moon (Antheneum, New York, 1991).

Michaux, H, Ecuador (1929; OUP, 1952).

Miller, T, The Panama Hat Trail (Abacus, 1986).

Thomsen, M, Living Poor (University of Washington Press, Seattle, 1969); and Farm on the River of Emeralds (Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1978).

Kunstaetter, R and D, Trekking in Ecuador (The Mountaineers, Seattle, 2002, http://www.trekkinginecuador.com).

Culturally, ethnically and geographically, Ecuador is very much two countries – the Andean highlands with their centre in Quito and the Northern Pacific Lowlands behind Guayaquil. In spite of this, the music is relatively homogeneous and it is the Andean music that would be regarded as ‘typically Ecuadorean’.

The principal highland rhythms are the Sanjuanito, Cachullapi, Albaza, Yumbo and Danzante, danced by indígenas and mestizos alike. These may be played by brass bands, guitar trios or groups of wind instruments, but it is the rondador, a small panpipe, that provides the classic Ecuadorean sound, although of late the Peruvian quena has been making heavy inroads via pan-Andean groups and has become a threat to the local instrument.

The coastal region has its own song form, the Amorfino, but the most genuinely ‘national’ song and dance genres, both of European origin, are the Pasillo (shared with Colombia) in waltz time and the Pasacalle, similar to the Spanish Pasodoble.

Music of the highland indigenous communities is, as elsewhere in the region, related to religious feasts and ceremonies and geared to wind instruments such as the rondador, the pinkullo and pifano flutes and the long guarumo horn with its mournful note. The guitar is also usually present and brass bands with well-worn instruments can be found in even the smallest villages.

According to official statistics, over 90% of the population belongs to the Roman Catholic faith and the church remains a formidable force in society. In recent decades a variety of Evangelical Protestant groups from the USA, Seventh-Day Adventists, Mormons and Jehovah’s Witnesses have increased their influence. Freedom of worship is guaranteed by the Ecuadorean constitution.

Just as many of the great colonial churches of Ecuador are built over Inca and pre-Inca temples, the nation’s impressive edifice of Roman Catholic faith rests firmly on pre-Christian foundations. The syncretism (mixing) of Catholic and earlier beliefs can be seen in many traditions and practices. Fanesca is a traditional soup eaten during Holy Week, made with salt fish and many different grains. The Catholic component is the lack of meat, which was not consumed during Lent, while the many grains came from native traditions to celebrate the beginning of the harvest at this time of year. The original native fanesca might have been made with cuy.

Further examples of syncretism are found among the traditions for Día de los Difuntos (Day of the Dead, 2 November). Colada morada, a sweet drink made from various fruits and purple corn is prepared, as are guaguas de pan (bread dolls). In a few places, native families may build a special altar in their homes or take their departed relatives’ favourite food and drink to the cemetery.

The contribution of agriculture and fishing to the GDP has dwindled since the start of petroleum exports, but many jobs are still in farming, and agro-exports still generate important foreign earnings. Ecuador is the world’s largest exporter of bananas, supplying 29% of world demand. In 2008, the country had 233,000 ha under cultivation for bananas and produced 6.7 million metric tons of the fruit. Other agro-exports include coffee, cocoa, roses and other cut flowers, as well as mangoes, strawberries, palm hearts and other fruits and vegetables, many of which are processed before export.

Although Ecuador’s share of total world oil production is small (about 1%), earnings from oil exports are crucial. Since 1990, annual revenue from petroleum exports has exceeded US$1000 million, and in 2008 it reached US$10.1 billion, based on an average daily production of 540,000 barrels. This accounts for 7% of Ecuador‘s GDP, 40% of its exports and 33% of government revenue. With the instability of world oil prices since 2008, petroleum has once again proven to be a very mixed blessing for the Ecuadorean economy.

The main producing area is in the northern Oriente, and two trans-Andean pipelines carry the oil to Esmeraldas on the coast, where it is refined and/or exported. But refining capacity falls well below domestic demand and Ecuador must import significant quantities of petroleum products. Relations are poor between the current (2006-present) government and international oil companies, with repeated wrangling over royalties and taxes.

Civil war broke out between the two halves of the empire, and in 1532 Atahualpa secured victory over Huáscar and established his capital in Cajamarca, in northern Peru. In the same year, conquistador Francisco Pizarro set out from Tumbes, on the Peru-Ecuador border, finally reaching Cajamarca. There, he captured the Inca leader and put him to death in 1533. This effectively ended Inca resistance and their empire collapsed.

Pizarro claimed the northern kingdom of Quito, and his lieutenants Sebastián de Benalcázar and Diego de Almagro took the city in 1534. Pizarro founded Lima in 1535 as capital of the whole region and four years later replaced Benalcázar at Quito with Gonzalo, his brother. Gonzalo Pizarro later set out on the exploration of the Oriente. He moved down the Napo river, and sent Francisco de Orellana ahead to prospect. Orellana did not return. He drifted down the river finally to reach the mouth of the Amazon, thus becoming the first white man to cross the continent in this way; an event which is still considered significant in the history of Ecuador .

The oldest archaeological artefacts that have been uncovered in Ecuador date back to approximately 10,000 BC. They include obsidian spear tips and belong to a pre-ceramic period during which the region’s inhabitants are thought to have been nomadic hunters, fishers and gatherers. A subsequent formative period (4000-500 BC) saw the development of pottery, presumably alongside agriculture and fixed settlements. One of these settlements, known as Valdivia, existed along the coast of Ecuador and remains of buildings and earthenware figures have been found dating from 3500-1500 BC .

Between 500 BC and AD 500, many different cultures evolved in all the geographic regions of what is today Ecuador. Among these were the Bahía, Guangalá, Jambelí and Duale-Tejar of the coast; Narrío, Tuncahuán and Panzaleo in the highlands; and Upano, Cosanga and Yasuní in Oriente. The period AD 500-1480 was an era of integration, during which dominant or amalgamated groups emerged. These included, from north to south in the Sierra, the Imbayas, Shyris, Quitus, Puruhaes and Cañaris; and the Caras, Manteños and Huancavilcas along the coast.

There are 24 provinces, including the Galápagos Islands. Provinces are divided into cantones which are subdivided into parroquias for administration.

Ecuadorean independence came about in several stages beginning in 1809, but was not completed until royalist forces were defeated by Antonio José de Sucre in the Battle of Pichincha in 1822. For the next eight years Ecuador was a province of Gran Colombia under the leadership of Simón Bolívar. As Gran Colombia collapsed in 1830, Ecuador at last became a fully independent nation.

Following independence, Ecuadorean politics were dominated by various elites. They were sometimes divided along regional lines (Quito and the highlands versus Guayaquil and the coast) and frequently fought among each other. Rule by rival oligarchies under the cloak of constitutional democracy or military dictatorship, has proved to be an enduring theme in Ecuadorean history.

Ecuadorean politics have long kept time with the country’s fragile economy, with greater stability during occasional periods of prosperity and chaos during the more frequent lean years. The Great Depression exemplified the latter. Between 1931 and 1948 there were 21 governments, none of which succeeded in completing its term of office. “There were ministers who lasted hours, presidents who lasted for days, and dictators who lasted for weeks.” (G Abad, El proceso de lucha por el poder en el Ecuador, Mexico 1970.) Political stability was only restored after the growth of coastal banana plantations created a fresh source of national revenue. The country’s next larger-than-life president was José María Velasco Ibarra, a fiery orator who was elected four times in the 1950s and 1960s, and ousted each time by a military coup.

Like most other South American countries Ecuador experienced several periods of military rule during the 1960s and 1970s, but it did not suffer the widespread human rights abuses which took places in some other nations. Since 1979, Ecuador has enjoyed its longest period of civilian constitutional government since independence. In 1978 a young and charismatic Jaime Roldós was elected president, but died three years later in a still-mysterious plane crash. The following twenty years saw a series of governments which ostensibly alternated between the political right and left but, in practice, were little different from one another.

One of the outstanding personalities of this period was León Febres Cordero of the right-wing Partido Social Cristiano, strong-armed president 1984-1988, then twice popular mayor of Guayaquil and twice member of Congress. He retained influence in circles of power until his death in 2008. Equally newsworthy was Abdalá Bucaram of the populist Partido Roldosista Ecuatoriano, who was swept to power in 1996, but lasted barely six months. In 1997, following mass demonstrations, Congress voted to remove him on the grounds of ‘mental incapacity’. Bucaram fled to Panama from where he remained for a time closely involved with Ecuadorean politics by remote control. Febres Cordero and Bucaram were Ecuador‘s late 20th century caudillos par excellence.

In 2002 Colonel Lucio Gutiérrez, leader of the Partido Sociedad Patriótica (PSP) and leader of the failed 2000 coup, was elected president. He had run on a populist platform in alliance with the indigenous movement and labour unions, but began to change his stripes soon after taking office. In 2005, he became the third Ecuadorean president in eight years to be deposed by popular unrest. The colonel briefly took asylum in Brazil but soon returned home to again become an active political player.

The Inca Kingdom already existed in southern Peru from the 11th century. It was not until the mid-15th century, however, that the empire began to expand northwards. Pachacuti Yupanqui became ruler of the Incas in 1428 and, along with his son Túpac Yupanqui, led the conquest of the Andean highlands north into present-day Ecuador. The Cañaris resisted for several years but were defeated around 1470. Their northern counterparts fought on for some decades, defeating various Inca armies.

Geologically, Ecuador is the creation of the Andean mountain-building process, caused in turn by the South American Plate moving west, meeting the Nazca plate which is moving east and sinking beneath the continent. This process began in the late Cretaceous Period around 80 million years ago and has continued to the present day. Before this, and until as late as perhaps 25 million years ago, the Amazon basin tilted west and the Amazon river drained into the Pacific through what is now southern Ecuador.

The Andes between Peru and Colombia are at their narrowest (apart from their extremities in Venezuela and southern Chile), ranging from 100-200 km in width. Nevertheless, they are comparatively high with one point, Chimborazo, over 6000 m and several others not much lower. Unlike Peru to the south, most of the peaks in Ecuador are volcanoes, and Cotopaxi is one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, at 5897 m. The 55 volcanic craters that dot the landscape of the northern highlands suggest a fractured and unstable area beneath the surface. A dramatic example of volcanic activity was an eruption of Cotopaxi in 1877 which was followed by a pyroclastic flow or nuée ardente (literally, a burning cloud) which flowed down the side of the volcano engulfing many settlements. Snow and ice at the summit melted to create another volcanic phenomenon called a lahar, or mud flow, which reached Esmeraldas (150 km away) in only 18 hours. The most recently volcanic episodes began in 1999, with eruptions of Guagua Pichincha, Tungurahua and Reventador.

The eastern third of the country is part of the Amazon basin filled with sedimentary deposits from the mountains to the west. The coastlands rise up to 1000 m and are mainly remnants of Tertiary basalts, similar to the base rocks of the Amazon basin on the other side of the Andes.

In the Transparency International 2008 Corruption Perceptions Index, Ecuador ranks as one of the three most corrupt countries in South America, and one of the 27 most corrupt in the world. This unenviable distinction is felt at various levels. Obviously, vast quantities of public resources can end up in the pockets of senior officials, but the real impact of widespread corruption is far more subtle and pervasive. Most minor official business, anything from the registration of a motor vehicle to the repair of a broken phone line, can be an agonizingly slow and complicated process. If, however, you have ‘connections’ or can pay for the services of a ‘facilitator’ then all is expedited. The Ecuadorean judicial system has likewise come in for its share of criticism, with political favouritism and other corrupt practices being blamed for both the extended detention of the innocent as well as the prompt release of criminals.

Children are entitled to 10 years of compulsory education by law, but in practice this is not always the case. Nationwide, 98% complete elementary school but only 52% go on to secondary education.

The gulf between rich and poor in Ecuador is exacerbated by the two-tier healthcare system. This division works on two levels – rural and urban; state and private. Doctors and hospitals are disproportionately concentrated in Quito and Guayaquil, and private hospitals have traditionally thrived at the expense of an under-funded state health service. The current (2006-present) government however, has at last made public health a greater priority.

In an attempt to escape rural poverty, many people move from the coast and the highlands to the towns and cities, particularly Guayaquil and Quito, where they are usually even worse off. In the countryside those with even a small plot of land or a fishing net can usually manage to eat, whereas in the city one must either earn or steal money in order to survive. This can be seen by the increase in crime as well as the many people trying to scrape together a living as ambulantes, by selling various goods or offering services on the streets of the major cities. Many are young children.Ecuadoreans have also sought more distant opportunities in North America and Europe, especially the USA and Spain. Collectively known as Los Migrantes, they account for some 5% of the country’s population who left Ecuador since the 1990s. Illegal migrants faced especially great hardship; they paid US$10,000 or more to a coyote to smuggle them overland through Central America, or in small vessels by sea, to the USA. Since few people had this sort of cash, the migrants usually signed over the family home or farm to chulqueros (loan sharks) who work with the coyotes. Some were defrauded of their property without ever reaching the ‘promised land’ while others perished en route.

The most recent census took place in 2001 and counted 12.2 million Ecuadoreans, a 26% increase since 1990. Estimates for 2009 population range between 14 million and 14.5 million. They are based on the 1990 to 2001 annual growth rate of 2.4%, as are the population figures given throughout this book. The next census is due in 2010.

As in other Andean countries with large indigenous populations, wealth is distributed along ethnic lines, with back and indigenous people suffering the greatest poverty. (An exception which proves this rule is the economic dominance of native people in Otavalo). At the same time there is a tiny – mostly white – elite, who are spectacularly wealthy. Government statistics for 2009 report that over 50% of Ecuadoreans are underemployed, 8% are unemployed and 35% live in poverty. Many of those who are fortunate enough to be formally employed must survive on a monthly wage of US$218. The basic cost of living for an Ecuadorean family is estimated at US$522 per month. The indigent receive government assistance of US$35 a month.

Fanesca is a fish soup with beans, many grains, ground peanuts and more, sold during Easter Week throughout the country. Colada morada (a thick dark purple fruit drink) and guaguas de pan (bread dolls) are made around the time of Finados, the Day of the Dead, at the beginning of November. Special tamales and sweet and sticky pristiños are Christmas specialities.

Your airline baggage will be inspected by security personnel and sniffed by dogs looking for drugs. Never transport anything you have not packed yourself, you will be held responsible for the contents. In addition, some passengers may be selected by Interpol/ anti-narcotics agents at the airport to undergo additional searches of their bags and person. The officers may be uniformed or plain- clothed, always ask politely to see their ID. In a few extreme cases, a compulsory X-ray examination may be required to make sure the traveller has not ingested packets of drugs.

For additional countries, addresses, opening hours and updates see http://www.mmrree.gov.ec.

Australia, 6 Pindari Crescent, O’Malley, ACT 2606, T2-6286 4021, embecu@bigpond.net.au.

Austria, Goldschmiedgasse 10/2/24, A-1010 Vienna, T1-535 3208, mecaustria@chello.at.

Belgium, Av Louise 363, 9th floor, 1050 Brussels, T2-644 3050, amb.equateur@skynet.be.

Canada, 50 O’Connor St, Of 316, Ottawa, ON K1P 6L2, T613-563 8206, http://www.consecuador-quebec.org.

France, 34 ave de Messine, 75008 Paris, T1-45611021, http://www.ambassade-equateur.fr.

Germany, Joachimstaler Str 10-12, 10719 Berlin, T30-800 9695.

Israel, 4 Rehov Weizmann (Asia House), 5th floor, Tel Aviv 64239, T3-695 8764, mecuaisr@netvision.net.il.

Italy, Vía Antonio Bertolini 8 (Paroli), 00197 Roma, T06-4543 9007, mecuroma@ecuador.it.

Japan, No 38 Kowa Building, Room 806, 8F, 4-12-24 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 1060031, T3-3499 2800, http://www.ecuador-embassy.or.jp.

Netherlands, Koninginnengracht 84, 2514 AJ, The Hague, T70-346 3753, embajada@embajadaecuador.nl.

Spain, Calle Velásquez No.114-2º Derecha, Madrid, T91-562 7215, embajada@mecuador.es.

Sweden, Engelbrektsgatan 13, SE-11432 Stockholm, T8-679 6043, mecuador.suecia@embecu.se.

Switzerland, Kramgasse 54, 3011 Bern, T31-351 1755, embecusuiza@bluewin.ch.

UK, Flat 3B, 3 Hans Crescent, Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 0LS, T020-7584 1367, eecugranbretania@mmrree.gov.ec.

Dawood R, editor. Travellers’ Health (4th ed, Oxford University Press, 2002).

Because you are so close to the equator, sun protection is a must throughout Ecuador, especially on the beach and in the highlands regardless of how cool it may feel; always use sun block and a hat. Mountaineers should always use glasses that provide 100% UV protection, and a good pair of sunglasses is recommended to all travellers in Ecuador.

The major health risks in lower parts of the country are those diseases carried by insects such as mosquitoes and sandflies. These include malaria, Chagas disease, dengue fever and leishmaniasis. Because these insects bite at different times of day, repellent application and covered limbs are a 24-hr issue. Long trousers, a long-sleeved shirt and insect repellent all offer protection. Mosquito nets dipped in permethrin provide a good physical and chemical barrier at night.

A bout of stomach upset is almost inevitable on a longer visit to Ecuador. Consider it part of the travel experience and don’t get scared or overreact. The standard advice to avoid diarrhoea is to be careful with water and ice for drinking. If you have any doubts then boil it, filter it or treat it. There are many filter/treatment devices now available on the market. Food can also transmit disease. Be wary of salads, reheated foods or food that has been left out in the sun having been previously cooked. There is a simple adage that says wash it, peel it, boil it or forget it. Also be wary of raw salads and undercooked meat. The key treatment with all diarrhoeas is rehydration. Try to keep hydrated by taking the right mixture of salt and water. This is available as oral rehydration salts (ORS) in ready-made sachets or can be made up by adding a teaspoon of sugar and a half teaspoon of salt to a litre of clean water. If diarrhoea persists for several days or you develop additional symptoms, then see a physician.

If you go diving make sure that you are fit do so. The British Sub-Aqua Club (BSAC), Telford’s Quay, South Pier Rd, Ellesmere Port, Cheshire CH65 4FL, UK, T01513-506200, http://www.bsac.com, can put you in touch with doctors who do medical examinations. Protect your feet and keep an eye out for secondary infection. Check that the dive company have appropriate certification from BSAC or PADI, Unit 7, St Philips Central, Albert Rd, Bristol BS2 0TD, T0117-300 7234, http://www.padi.com, and that the equipment is well maintained. There is a hyperbaric chamber in Puerto Ayora, Galápagos and another with the navy in Guayaquil.

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (USA), http://www.cdc.gov. Detailed travellers‘ health information and advice.

Fit for Travel (UK), http://www.fitfortravel.scot. nhs.uk. This site provides a quick A-Z of vaccine and travel health advice requirements for each country.

Foreign and Commonwealth Office (FCO) (UK), http://www.fco.gov.uk.

National Travel Health Network and Centre (NaTHNaC) http://www.nathnac.org.

There are a great many banks and financial institutions in Ecuador. Most visitors will only use them for their ATMs, conveniently located branches are shown on the maps in this book and listed in the Directory section under each city or town. If you need to make a cashier transaction then be prepared for long queues and paperwork. Bank hours are generally Mon-Fri 0900-1600.

Banco Bolivariano, http://www.bolivariano.com. ATMs for Visa, Plus, Visa Electron, MasterCard, Cirrus and Maestro; cash advances on Visa and MasterCard at cashiers.

Banco de Guayaquil, www.banco guayaquil.com. ATMs for Amex, Visa, Plus, MasterCard, Cirrus, and Maestro; cash advances on Visa at cashiers.

Banco del Pacífico/Pacificard, http://www.bp.fin.ec. Changes TCs at main branches for US$5 commission per transaction, maximum US$200 a day on the mainland, US$500 a day on Galápagos; ATMs for Visa, Plus, MasterCard and Cirrus; cash advances on Visa and MasterCard at cashiers.

Vaz Corp, in Quito, Otavalo and Cuenca, http://www.vazcorpsf.com. Changes euros and 10 other currencies in cash; 1.8% commission on US$ TCs (minimum commission US$2).

Traveller‘s cheques (TCs) are of diminishing use in Ecuador. They can still be exchanged for cash at one nationwide bank (Banco del Pacífico) and some casas de cambio such as Vaz Corp. Always ask about the commission before exchanging, it may be exorbitant in some places. TCs are not accepted by most merchants, hotels or tour agencies.

American Express TCs are the most useful brand but they are no longer replaced by the local AMEX representative if they are lost or stolen, you must file a claim from home. A passport is always required to exchange TCs.

The countryside and small towns are generally the safest areas of Ecuador, and fortunately account for the largest and most interesting parts of the country. The big cities – Quito, Guayaquil, Cuenca and Santo Domingo – call for the greatest care. During the first six months of 2009, an average of three robberies a day were reported by tourists in Quito.

Almost all foreigners serving long sentences in Ecuador’s squalid jails are there on drug charges. The authorities carry out sporadic raids in bars and clubs, anti-narcotics police set up checkpoints along the country’s roads, and drug searches may be conducted at international departures areas of airports.

The cheapest hotels are usually found near markets and bus stations but these are also the least safe areas of most Ecuadorean towns. Look for something a little better if you can afford it, and if you must stay in a suspect area, try to return to your hotel before dark. If you trust your hotel, then you can leave any valuables you don’t need in their safe deposit box, but always keep an inventory of what you have deposited.

Make photocopies of important documents and give them to your family or travelling companion, this may speed up replacement if documents are lost or stolen and will allow you to have some ID while getting replacements. Keep all documents (including your passport, credit and debit cards) secure and hide your main cash supply in several different places. If one stash is lost or stolen, you will still have the others to fall back on.

Pickpockets, bag snatchers and slashers are always a hazard for tourists, especially in crowded areas such as markets. Keep alert and avoid swarms of people. Crowded city buses and the various Quito and Guayaquil mass transit lines are notorious for thieves. Likewise avoid deserted areas, such as parks or plazas after hours. If someone follows you when you’re in the street, slip into a nearby shop or hail a cab. If you are the victim of an armed assault, never resist or hold back your valuables; they can always be replaced.

The old scam of smearing tourists with mustard, ketchup, shaving cream and almost anything else, in order to distract and rob them, is alive and well in Ecuador. It happens on the street and in cybercafés. An apparently well-meaning bystander usually helps clean you up, while their accomplice expertly cleans you out. If you are smeared, move along quickly to a secure location or hail a cab.

eXito Latin American Travel Specialists, 712 Bancroft Rd 455, Walnut Creek, CA 94598, USA, 1-800-655 4053, http://www.exitotravel.com. Latin America experts.

Ladatco Tours, 2200 South Dixie Highway, Suite 704, Coconut Grove, FL 33133, 1-800-327 6162, http://www.ladatco.com. South American specialists, operate explorer tours.

Myths and Mountains, 976 Tee Ct, Incline Village, Nevada 89451, USA, 1-800-670 6984, http://www.mythsandmountains.com. Cultural and natural tours of Galápagos and Ecuador.

Tambo Tours, 4405 Spring Cypress Rd, Suite 210, Spring, TX 77388, USA, 1-888-2-GO-PERU (246-7378), 1-281-528 9448, www.2GOPERU. com. Long-established adventure and tour specialist with offices in Peru and USA. Customized trips to the Amazon and archaeological sites of Peru and Ecuador.

For further information on specialist travel firms, contact the Latin American Travel Association at PO Box 1338, Long Ashton, Bristol BS41 9YA, 020-8715 2913, http://www.lata.org.

Amazing Ecuador, 9 Alma Rd, Manchester M19 2FG, 0808-234 6805 (freephone) http://www.amazingdestinations.net. Adventure, cultural and ecological tours including land-based tour to the Galápagos. Offices in Quito and in the Galápagos.

Austral Tours, 20 Upper Tachbrook St, London SW1V 1SH, 020-7233 5384, http://www.latinamerica.co.uk. Tailor-made itineraries, including flights and accommodation.

Explore, 1 Frederick St, Aldershot, Hants, GU11 1LQ, 0870-3334002, http://www.explore.co.uk. Highly respected operator with offices in Ireland, Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada, running 2- to 5-week tours in more than 90 countries worldwide, including Ecuador.

Equatorial Travel, 3a Victoria Sq, Ashbourne, Derbyshire DE6 1GG, 01335-348770, http://www.equatorialtravel.co.uk. Fair Trade tours to Ecuador as well as other parts of the world.

Galapagos Classic Cruises, 6 Keyes Rd, London NW2 3XA, 020-8933 0613, http://www.galapagoscruises.co.uk. An experienced company providing specialist and adventure tours for individuals and groups.

Journey Latin America, 12-13 Heathfield Terr, Chiswick, London W4 4JE, 020-8747 8315, and 12 St Anne’s Sq, 2nd floor, http://www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk. The world’s leading tailor-made specialist for Latin America, running escorted tours throughout the region, they also offer a wide range of flight options.

Last Frontiers, Fleet Marston Farm, Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire HP18 0QT, 01296-653000, http://www.lastfrontiers.com. South American specialists offering tailor-made itineraries to Ecuador including the Galápagos, plus specialist themed tours.

Select Latin America (incorporating Galapagos Adventure Tours), 3.51 Canterbury Court, 1-3 Brixton Rd, Kennington Park Business Centre, London SW9 6D, 020-7407 1478, http://www.selectlatinamerica.co.uk. Tailor- made holidays and small group tours. Specialist in cruises around the Galápagos Islands.

South American Experience, 47 Causton St, Pimlico, London SW1P 4AT, 020-7976 5511, http://www.southamericanexperience.co.uk. Flights, accommodation and tailor-made trips.

Steppes Travel, 51 Castle St, Cirencester GL7 1QD, 01285-885333, http://www.steppestravel.co.uk. Ecuador mainland and Galápagos tours. Tailor-made itineraries for destinations throughout Latin America.

Sunvil Latin America, Sunvil House, Upper Sq, Old Isleworth, Middlesex TW7 7BJ, 020-8758 4774, http://www.sunvil.co.uk. Fly-drive and small group holidays for adventurous travellers.

This USA-based non-profit organization provides its members with a wide range of travel information about Ecuador and South America. It offers a Quito resource centre with a library, a quarterly journal, and sells guidebooks and maps. SAE can hold postal mail for its members. SAE services are only available to members of the club. Annual membership costs US$60 single, US$90 for a couple. A visit to an SAE clubhouse is recommended before you sign up, to see if this organization suits your needs.

Tourists are entitled to visit Ecuador for up to 90 days during any 12-month period. Extensions are only granted to citizens of a few neighbouring Andean countries. If you leave the country after staying 90 days, you will generally not be allowed to re-enter until 12 months later. The fine for overstaying the 90-day limit (even by one day) is currently US$200, but may be increased. It must be paid 48 hours before departure at an immigration police office, most reliably in Quito.

There are various visa options for foreigners who wish to stay longer. Temporary and permanent residency visas are issued by Ecuador’s diplomatic representatives abroad and administered in Quito by the Dirección Nacional de Extranjería, San Ignacio 207 y San Javier, near the Multicentro shopping centre, T02-222 1817, Mon-Fri 0800-1300; and by the Dirección General de Asuntos Migratorios, 10 de Agosto 18-55 y San Gregorio, Edificio Solís, upstairs, T02-222 7025, Mon-Tue and Thu-Fri 0900-1200.

Ecuadorean law requires you to carry your passport at all times. A photocopy of your passport is not an officially acceptable substitute and you may not be permitted to return to your hotel to fetch the original document. Some travellers nonetheless prefer to carry a photocopy and leave their passport at their hotel. A photocopy certified by your embassy is more likely to be acceptable, but it’s a judgement call, entirely at the discretion of the individual police officer.

‘Voluntourism’ is very popular in Ecuador, attracting many visitors, from students to retirees. It is a good way to become more intimately acquainted with the country (blemishes and all) and, at the same time, to try and lend a hand to its people. If you are seriously interested in volunteering, you should research both local and international organizations well before you leave home. Try to choose a position which matches your individual skills. Think carefully about the kind of work that you would find most satisfying but remember that you may also be assigned menial tasks. Likewise be realistic about how much you might be able to achieve. The shorter your stay, the more limited should be your expectations in all regards. One month is a reasonable minimum. You must speak at least basic Spanish, and preferably a good deal more, in order to work effectively in a local community setting.

Aerogal, T1-800-237 6425, www.aerogal. com.ec. Serves Cuenca, Galápagos (Baltra and San Cristóbal), Guayaquil, Manta and Quito, as well as Miami (USA) and Bogotá (Colombia).

Icaro, T1-800-883567, http://www.icaro.aero. Serves Guayaquil, Lago Agrio, Manta and Quito.

LAN, T1-800-101075, http://www.lan.com. Serves Quito and Guayaquil.

Saéreo, Quito T02-330 2280, www.saereo. com. Serves Macas, Machala and Quito.

TAME, Quito T02-397 7100, Guayaquil T04-231 0305, http://www.tame.com.ec. Serves Coca, Cuenca, Esmeraldas, Galápagos (Baltra and San Cristóbal), Guayaquil, Lago Agrio, Loja, Manta, Quito, Tulcán and Cali (Colombia).

Buses in Ecuador are cheap, frequent and go everywhere, making them an ideal way to get around. In 2009 the rule of thumb for prices was approximately US$1 per hour of travel time. Bus prices have not increased since 2004, however, so fare rises might be forthcoming. The bus timetable on page shows frequencies, transfer points, travel times and prices for most major destinations. Details of local services are given in the transport section of each city or town. A new website, http://www.viajerocontento.com (not yet operational at the close of this edition), promises to offer comprehensive bus travel information for all of Ecuador; worth checking.

Driving in Ecuador has been described as ‘an experience’, partly because of unexpected potholes and other obstructions and the lack of road signs, partly because of local drivers’ tendency to use the middle of the road. Beware the bus drivers, who often drive very fast and sometimes recklessly.

Trailfinders, T0845-058 5858, http://www.trailfinders.com.

Travel CUTS, T1-866-246 9762 (Canada), T1-800-592 2887 (USA), http://www.travelcuts.com.

STA Travel, Australia: T134782, http://www.statravel.com.au; New Zealand: T0-800-474400, http://www.statravel.co.nz.