British Virgin Islands travel guide

There are 20 national parks, on land and underwater, protecting a variety of species of plant and wildlife. The BVI is home to the smallest lizard in the world, the cotton ginner, or dwarf gecko, while Anegada supports the last remaining population of the endangered indigenous Cyclua pingui, or Anegada rock iguana, which can grow up to 5 ft long (see page ). Most of the land was cleared years ago for its timber or to grow crops, and it is now largely covered by secondary forest and scrub. In the areas with greatest rainfall there are mangoes and palm trees, while mangrove and sea grape can be found in some areas along the shore. There are a number of trees found only in the BVI. There are few large animals, but over 150 species of birds are found and there are lots of butterflies and other insects.

Background

Car: There are only about 50 miles of roads suitable for cars. Drive on the left. Maximum speed limit 40 mph, in residential areas 20 mph. Jeeps may be more useful than cars for exploring secluded beach areas. They can be hired on Tortola, Virgin Gorda and Anegada. Car rental offices (or the Traffic and Licensing Department) provide the necessary temporary BVI driving licence (US$10) but you must also have a valid licence from your home country.

Car hire: It is advisable to book in advance in the peak season. Rates range from US$40-45 per day for a small car, US$45-70 per day for jeeps. Credit card needed with US$500 deposit. A 5% tax is charged on all rentals.

The main international airport is on Beef Island for Tortola (connecting bridge), but there is also one on Virgin Gorda, with a domestic airport on Anegada. There are no direct flights from Europe or from the USA, Canada or Latin America.

From Europe: Same-day connections can be made through Puerto Rico, Antigua, Sint Maarten or St Kitts.

From the USA: Connecting flights can be arranged through Puerto Rico or the USVI.

There are frequent connections with the USVI. On Tortola, ferries depart from Road Town and West End. Inter-Island Boat Services, T4954166, http://www.bviports.org/inter_island.htm (St John-West End, Jost Van Dyke and/or Virgin Gorda); also water taxi available, T7766501. Native Son Inc, T4954617, http://www.bviports.org/native_son.htm (Red Hook-St John-West End or Road Town), Smith’s Ferry Services, T4944495, http://www.smithsferry.com (Red Hook-West End or Road Town and Virgin Gorda), Speedy’s, T4955240, http://www.speedysbvi.com (St Thomas-St John-Road Town-Virgin Gorda), Caribbean Maritime Excursion, operating as Road Town Fast Ferry, T4942323, http://www.tortolafastferry.com (St Thomas-Road Town), Nubian Princess, T4954999 (Red Hook-St John-West End). Fares are usually US$45 round trip St Thomas-Tortola, US$60 St Thomas-Virgin Gorda, with discounts for children.

Ports of entry: (British flag) Ports of entry are located in Road Town and West End on Tortola, Great Harbour on Jost Van Dyke and St Thomas Bay (Virgin Gorda Yacht Club) in Virgin Gorda, where there are Customs and Immigration officers. All vessels entering the territory must clear in with BVI Customs and Immigration immediately upon arrival into the territory.

Boat documents: The captain may clear the crew, taking passports and boat documentation ashore. Do not proceed to a marina until you have cleared your yacht. If you arrive after hours, raise your yellow flag and do not go ashore. You may seek permission in advance from Customs and Immigration for a late arrival by calling one of the ports of entry. Customs Mon-Fri 0830-1630, Sat 0830-1230, all other times incur overtime charges. A cruising permit (and a national parks mooring permit) are required by everyone cruising in the BVI: 1 December-30 April, all BVI-based charter boats US$2 per person per day, all non-BVI-based charter boats US$4 per person per day; 1 May-30 November, US$0.75 and US$4 respectively. All privately owned yachts cruising in the BVI are charged nominal cruising fees.

Newspapers: Virgin Islands Daily News covers Tortola as well as the USVI and is available online, http://www.virginislandsdailynews.com. The Island Sun, http://www.islandsun.com, is published on Fri, while the BVI Beacon comes out on Thu. The Limin’ Times, printed weekly, is a free magazine giving entertainment news: nightlife, sports, music etc. Standpoint on Tue, is popular with young islanders, with lots of advertising. All At Sea is a local monthly lively tabloid for yachties, T4951090, editor@allatsea.net.

Radio Radio ZBVI broadcasts on 780AM. Weather reports for sailors are broadcast hourly from 0730 to 1830 every day. There are 4 FM stations: Reggae at 97.3, Country at 94.3, Z Gold at 91.7and ZROD at 103.7.

Lots of yachts offer day-sails to all the little islands at around US$70-90 with snorkelling, beverages and sometimes lunch. When the cruise ships are in town they are often full. All day sail boats should carry the Daycharter Association of the British Virgin Islands symbol to prove they are licensed and have had safety checks.

Considerable work is being done to establish marine parks and conserve the reefs. The Department of Conservation and Fisheries is in charge of the BVI’s natural resources and fisheries management plan. The 11-mile Horseshoe Reef off the south shore of Anegada is one of the largest reefs in the world and is now a Protected Area. There are 80 visible wrecks around Anegada and many more covered by coral; about 300 ships are believed to have foundered on the reef.

Humpback whales migrate to the islands every year and the Department of Conservation and Fisheries is trying to estimate their numbers with the aim of designating the BVI waters as a marine mammal sanctuary. If you see any (mostly north of Tortola), let them know. Similarly, turtles are being counted with the help of volunteers in order to draw up protective legislation. Leatherback turtles travel to north shore beaches to nest, but their numbers have been declining fast. Hawksbill and green turtles are more common but still endangered. For several months of the year the killing of turtles or taking their eggs is prohibited and the export of turtle products is illegal. Despite the government’s conservation policies, approval was granted for a captive dolphin programme, which started in 2001. Dolphins caught in the wild are now in the lagoon at Prospect Reef and tourists can swim with them.

There are over 60 charted dive sites, many of which are in underwater national parks. They include walls, pinnacles, coral reefs, caverns and wrecks. The most-visited wreck is that of the Rhone, sunk in 1867 in a storm and broken in two. The bow section is in about 80 ft of water and you can swim through the hull. The stern is shallower and you can see the prop shaft and the propeller (and an octopus). Another wreck is the 246-ft Chikuzen sunk in 1981 about 6 miles north of Tortola, where you will see bigger fish such as barracuda and rays. Most Caribbean and Atlantic species of tropical fish and marine invertebrates can be found in BVI waters, with hard and soft corals, gorgonians and sea fans. Visibility ranges from 60-200 ft and the water temperature varies from 76°F in winter to 86°F in summer.

All users of moorings must have a national parks permit. These are available through dive operators, charter companies, government offices and the National Parks Trust (T4943904) . National Parks Trust moorings are located at The Caves, The Indians, The Baths, Pelican Island, Carrot Shoal, dive sites at Peter Island, Cooper Island, Ginger Island and Norman Island, the Rhone’s anchor, the wreck of the Rhone, the wreck of the Fearless, Deadchest Island, Blonde Rock, Guana Island, The Dogs and other popular diving and recreational sites.