Puno travel guide

Puno sits on a bay at the northwest end of the lake. The Bahía de Puno is only 3m deep and a channel is dredged to the exit into the open water of Titicaca. The port and lakeside quarters are several blocks from the centre, whose focus is the Plaza de Armas. The impressive baroque exterior of the cathedral i0800-1200, 1500-1800, completed in 1657, belies an austere interior. Just across the street from the cathedral is the famous Balcony of the Conde de Lemos, on the corner of Deústua and Conde de Lemos, where Perus Viceroy stayed. Also here is the Museo Municipal Carlos Dreyer iConde de Lemos 289, Mon-Sat 0900-1930, Sun 1400-1930, US$5 includes 45-min guided tour. The museum combines municipal collections with the private collection of pre-Columbian artefacts bequeathed to the city by their owner, Sr Carlos Dreyer. In the same block is the Casa del Corregidor iDeústua 576, T051-365603, www.casadelcorregidor.com.pe, Tue-Fri1000- 2200, closed for lunch on Sat. One of Punos oldest buildings, it has been converted into Punos most important cultural centre, check website for exhibitions. It also has a great café (see page ) and a fair trade shop selling handicrafts. A short walk up Independencia leads to the Arco Deústua, a monument to those killed in the battles of Junín and Ayacucho. Nearby, is a mirador giving fine views over the town, the port and also the lake beyond. The walk from Jirón Cornejo following the Stations of the Cross up a nearby hill, with fine views of Lake Titicaca, has been recommended, but be careful and dont go alone. The same applies to all the hills around Puno: Huajsapata is known for music and folklore gatherings; Azoguine and Cancharani are higher, with good views and sacred associations. To get to Azoguine you go through Barrio Las Cruces, which is very dangerous. Avenida Titicaca leads to the port, from where boats go to the islands. From its intersection with Avenida Costañera (a new, coastal road) towards the pier, one side of the road is lined with the kiosks of the Artesanos Unificados de Puno, selling crafts. Closer to the port are food kiosks. On the opposite side of the road is a shallow lake where you can hire pedal boats iUS$0.70pp for 20 mins. At the pier are the ticket counters for transport to the islands. On the way from the centre to the port is the Museo Naval iAv El Puerto y Av Sol, Mon-Fri 0830-1230, 1430-1700, free. Here you can find a small exhibit on navigating on Lake Titicaca. The Malecón Bahía de los Incas, a lovely promenade along the waterfront, extends to the north and south; it is a pleasant place for a stroll and for birdwatching with views of the lake. The section to the north connects the port with Av Floral at the north end of the bay. The section to the south follows the bay to the Terminal Terrestre and on completion will continue to the suburb of Salcedo, 4 km from the port. The bay by Puno is very polluted but several plans to build a sewage treatment plant have foundered. The MN Yavari i0815-1715, then illuminated till 2230 for Happy Hour run by Hotel Posada del Inca, entry free in daytime, but donations of US$6 encouraged to help with maintenance costs, is the oldest ship on Lake Titicaca. It was restored in the port of Puno and turned into a museum, before being moved to its present location in 2002. The iron-hulled ship, now painted in her original livery of black, white and red, was built in England in 1862 and, together with her twin, the Yapura (now the Peruvian Navys Hospital ship and called the BAP Puno), was shipped in kit form to Arica. From Arica, the two ships went by rail to Tacna from where the 2766 pieces were carried by mule to Lake Titicaca. The journey took six years. The Yavari was eventually launched on Christmas Day 1870 and on 14 June 1871 sailed on her maiden voyage. From after the War of the Pacific until the nationalization of the Railways and Lake Fleet in 1975, the Yavari was operated as a passenger/cargo vessel by the London-based Peruvian Corporation. The ship was bought in 1987 and is being restored by an Anglo-Peruvian Association. Visitors are very welcome on board the Yavari and will be shown over the ship and its exhibition of archival documentation and memorabilia on the Lake Fleet by the Captain, Carlos Saavedra, or a volunteer. The Yavari is berthed near the entrance to the Sonesta Posada del Inca Hotel (see below). You have to go through the hotel to get to the ship. To get there you can go by taxi, bus or trici-taxi, but the most charming way is by boat from the port, about US$2 return, including wait. Project addresses I61 Mexfield Rd, London, SW15 2RG, England, T44-20 8874 0583, yavarilarken@talktalk.net; in Lima: Giselle Guldentops, T01-9998 5071, yavariguldentops@hotmail.com; in Puno: Asociación Yavari, c/o Capitán Carlos Saavedra, T051-369329, carlosalberto@yavari.org. For general information, volunteering, donations, etc, visit www.yavari.org. Hull (UK)-built MS Ollanta, sailed the lake from 1926 to the 1970s. PerúRail has restored the vessel with a view eventually to starting cruises, but it is not currently open to the public nor operating. Berthed next to it is another old ship, the MN Colla, iBarrio Guaje, beyond the Hotel Sonesta Posada del Inka, T051-368156, daily 0800-1700, built in Scotland and launched on the lake in 1892. Its museum is similar to that of the Yavari. Its restaurant serves Peruvian specialities, set menu US$7, buffet US$8, if they have dinner reservations they stay open in the evening

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