Caribbean travel guide

A diving or snorkelling trip over a tropical reef allows a first hand experience of this habitat’s diversity of wildlife. There are a number of good field guides to reef fish and animals; some are even printed on waterproof paper. Alternatively, glass-bottomed boats sail over some sites (Buccoo Reef, Tobago), and there are underwater trails which identify types of corals and marine habitats.

Amongst the commonest fish are the grunts, butterfly, soldier, squirrel and angel fish. Tiny damsel fish are very territorial and may even attempt to nip swimmers who venture too close to their territories (more surprising than painful).

There are over 50 species of hard coral (the form that builds reefs) with a variety of sizes and colours. Amongst the most dramatic are the stagshorn and elkhorn corals which are found on the more exposed outer reefs. Brain coral forms massive round structures up to 2 m high and pillar coral forms columns that may also reach 2 m in height. Soft corals, which include black corals, sea fans and gorgonians, colonize the surface of the hard coral adding colour and variety. Associated with these structures is a host of animals and plants. Spiny lobsters may be seen lurking in holes and crevices along with other crustaceans and reef fish. The patches of sand between outcrops of coral provide suitable habitat for conch and other shellfish. Some islands now restrict the collection and sale of corals (especially black corals) and there are legal restrictions on the sale of black corals under CITES. Overfishing has also affected conch and lobster in places.

The delights of swimming on a coral reef need to be tempered by a few words of caution. Many people assume the water will be seething with sharks, however these animals are fairly uncommon in nearshore waters and the species most likely to be encountered is the nurse shark, which is harmless unless provoked. Other fish to keep an eye open for include the scorpion fish with its poisonous dorsal spines; it frequently lies stationary on coral reefs. Moray eels may be encountered, a fearsome looking fish, but harmless unless provoked at which point they can inflict serious bites. Of far more concern should be the variety of stinging invertebrates that are found on coral reefs. The most obvious is fire coral which comes in a range of shapes and sizes but is recognizable by the white tips to its branches. In addition, many corals have sharp edges and branches that can graze and cut. Another common group of stinging invertebrates are the fire worms which have white bristles. As with the fire coral, these can inflict a painful sting if handled or brushed against. Large black sea urchins are also common on some reefs and their spines can penetrate unprotected skin very easily. The best advice when observing coral reefs and their wildlife is to look, not touch.

Some islands, especially those in the southern part of the Caribbean, have spectacular cliffs and offshore islets. These are home to large flocks of sea birds including the piratical frigate bird which chases smaller birds, forcing them to disgorge their catch; another notable species is the tropic bird with its streamer-like tail feathers. The cliffs may also provide dry sandy soils for the large range of Caribbean cacti, including prickly pear (opuntia sp) and the Turks head cactus.

There is little if any primary rainforest left in the Caribbean Islands, although there may be small patches in Guadeloupe. Nevertheless, many of the islands still have large areas of good secondary forest which has only suffered from a limited amount of selective felling for commercially valuable wood, such as gommier, balata and blue mahoe.

Martinique has some of the largest tracts of forest left in the Caribbean (eg rainforest at Piton du Carbet, cloud forest on Mt Pelée, dry woodland in the south). In Dominica, the Morne Trois Pitons National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its rare combination of natural features: volcanoes, fumaroles and hot springs, freshwater lakes, a ‘boiling lake’ and the richest biodiversity in the Lesser Antilles. Many other islands also have accessible forest, although you should always use a local guide if venturing off the beaten track.

The Caribbean rainforests are not as diverse as those on the South and Central American mainland, however they still support a large number of plant species many of which are endemic (Jamaica has over 3,000 species of which 800 are endemic). The orchids and bromeliads are impressive in many forests and it is not unusual to see trees festooned with both these groups. The wildlife of the rainforest includes both native and introduced species, although they are often difficult to see in the shady conditions. Agouti, boa constrictor, monkeys and opossum may be seen, but it is the bird life that is most evident. Hummingbirds, vireos, thrashers, todies and others are all found along with parrots, which are perhaps the group most associated with this habitat. Early morning and evening provide the best times for birdwatching.

Plantations of commercial timber (blue mahoe, Caribbean pine, teak, mahogany and others) have been established in many places. These reduce pressure on natural forest and help protect watersheds and soil. They are also valuable for wildlife and some species have adapted to them with alacrity.

Closer to the coasts, dry scrub woodland often predominates. The trees may lose their leaves during the dry season. One of the most recognizable of the trees in this woodland is the turpentine tree, also known as the tourist tree because of its red peeling bark! Bush medicines and herbal remedies are still used in the countryside although less so than previously. Leaves and bark can be seen for sale in markets.

Wetlands include a wide range of fresh and brackish water habitats such as rivers, marsh and mangroves. They are important for many species of bird, as well as fish. Unfortunately they are also home to an array of biting insects, including mosquitoes which are unpleasant and a serious problem where malaria or dengue are present.

Important coastal wetlands include the Baie de Fort de France (Martinique), the Cabrits Swamp (Dominica), Caroni and Nariva Swamps (Trinidad), Negril and Black Morass (Jamaica). These sites all support large flocks of migratory and resident birds including waders, herons, egrets and ducks. In addition, some of the mangroves in the Greater Antilles also provide habitats for manatee, and the Negril and Black Morass has a population of American crocodiles. Large freshwater lakes are less common although Grenada, Dominica and St Vincent all have volcanic crater lakes and these are used by migratory waders and ducks as well as kingfishers.

Frogs and toads are common in a variety of shapes and colours. There are generally more species on the larger islands. The Cuban pygmy frog is described as the world’s smallest frog, while at the other end of the scale, the mountain chicken of Dominica and Montserrat is probably the largest frog in the region. Its name relates to its supposed flavour. The call of the piping frogs (eleutherodactylus spp) is often mistaken for a bird and these small animals are common throughout the Lesser Antilles, becoming especially vocal at night and after rain. The largest and most visible amphibian is probably the marine toad which has been introduced to islands throughout the region in an attempt to control insects and other invertebrate pests. The male toads use flat exposed areas from which to display, often roads. Unfortunately, they have not evolved to deal with the car yet and as a result many are killed.

It is the birds, perhaps, that excite the most interest from visitors. Many islands have their own endemic species such as the Guadeloupe woodpecker, Grenada dove, yellow-billed parrot and 24 other species in Jamaica. The islands also act as important stepping stones in the migration of many birds through the Americas. As a result, the region is highly regarded by ornithologists and there are several important nature reserves. Trinidad and Tobago demonstrate the influence of the nearby South American mainland. While they have no endemic species they still support at least 433 species and the Asa Wright Centre is regarded as one of the premier birdwatching sites in the world. There is also an important flamingo colony on Bonaire.

Many of the endemic species have become rare as a result of man’s activities. Habitat destruction, the introduction of new species (especially the mongoose) and hunting for food or the international pet trade have all had an effect. Parrots, in particular, have suffered. Fortunately, measures are now being undertaken to protect the birds and their habitats on Jamaica, Dominica, Puerto Rico and St Lucia.

This group includes the insects, molluscs, spiders and a host of other animals that have no backbones. It is estimated that there are at least 290 species of butterfly in the Caribbean. No one knows how many species of beetles, bugs or mollusc there are on the islands.

Of the butterflies, the swallowtails are the most spectacular, with several species found in the Greater Antilles (especially Cuba). The other islands also have large colourful butterflies including the monarch and flambeau which are present throughout the region. Another insect of note is the hercules beetle, reportedly the world’s second largest beetle with a large horn that protrudes from its thorax, occasionally found in the rainforests of the Lesser Antilles.

Land and freshwater crabs inhabit a range of environments from the rainforest (eg bromeliad crab from Jamaica) to the dry coastal areas (many species of hermit crab). Tarantulas are also common, although they are nocturnal and rarely seen. Their bite is painful but no worse than a bee sting. Of far more concern are the large centipedes (up to 15 cm long) that can inflict a nasty and painful bite with their pincers. They are mostly restricted to the dry coastal areas and are most active at night. Black widow spiders are also present on some of the islands in the Greater Antilles. Fortunately they are rarely encountered by the traveller.

Mammals are not good colonizers of small islands and this has resulted in a general scarcity of species in the Caribbean. Many of the more commonly seen species (mongoose, agouti, opossum, and some of the monkeys) were introduced by man. Bats are the one exception to this rule and most islands have several native species. Mongoose were introduced to many islands to control snakes; they have also preyed on birds, reptiles and other animals, causing a devastating effect to native fauna. The green monkeys of Barbados, Grenada and St Kitts and Nevis were introduced from West Africa in the 17th century. Similarly, rhesus monkeys have been introduced to Desecheo Island off Puerto Rico. The red howler monkeys on Trinidad are native to the island as are several other mammals including the brocket deer, squirrel and armadillo. These species have managed to colonize from nearby Venezuela.

Sailors may encounter marine mammals including dolphin, porpoise and whales. Between November and December humpback whales migrate through the Turks and Caicos Passage on their way to the Silver Banks breeding grounds off the Dominican Republic. The manatee, or sea cow, can still be seen in some coastal areas in the Greater Antilles (especially Jamaica, Cuba – Zapata Peninsula – and Puerto Rico) although it is becoming increasingly uncommon.

Lizards and geckos are common on virtually all the islands in the region and may even be seen on very small offshore islets. There are also a number of species of snakes, iguanas and turtles scattered throughout the region. Many are restricted to one island and Jamaica has at least 27 island endemics including several species of galliwasp. Many species of reptile are now protected in the region and reserves have been specifically established to protect them. The Maria Islands Nature Reserve on St Lucia is home to the St Lucia ground lizard and grass snake. The latter is one of the rarest snakes in the world with an estimated population of 150 individuals.

The vast majority of reptiles found in the region are completely harmless to man although there are strong superstitions about the geckos (mabouya) and, of course, the snakes. The skin and fat of boa constrictors (tête chien) are used for bush remedies on some of the Windward Islands. The fer de lance snake (St Lucia, Martinique and also South America) deserves to be treated with extreme caution ; although the bite is not usually lethal, hospitalization is required.

Iguanas are still found on many islands although they have declined as a result of hunting throughout the region. In spite of their fearsome appearance, they are herbivorous and spend much of their time in trees and low scrub feeding on leaves and trying to avoid man.

Marine turtles including the loggerhead, leatherback, hawksbill and green turtles are found throughout Caribbean waters and they may occasionally be seen by divers and snorkellers. Females come ashore on isolated sandy beaches between the months of May and August to lay eggs. There may be opportunities for assisting natural history and wildlife societies (St Lucia Naturalists Society, Fish and Wildlife Dept in the US Virgin Islands) in their turtle watches, to record numbers and locations of nests and to protect the turtles from poachers. There is a large commercial breeding programme for green turtles in the Cayman Islands. Freshwater turtles are also found on some islands including Jamaica. Caiman have been introduced to Puerto Rico and are also found on Cuba and the Dominican Republic.

They had no writing, no beasts of burden, no wheeled vehicles and no hard metals, although they did have some alluvial gold for personal ornament. The abundance of food allowed them time to develop their arts and crafts and they were skilled in woodwork and pottery. They had polished stone implements, but also carved shell tools for manioc preparation or as fish hooks. Coral manioc graters have also been found. Their boat-building techniques were noted by Columbus, who marvelled at the canoes of up to 75 ft in length, carrying up to 50 people, made of a single tree trunk in one piece. It took two months to fell a tree by gradually burning and chipping it down, and many more to make the canoe.

The Taínos hunted for some of their food, but fishing was more important and most of their settlements were close to the sea. Fish and shellfish were their main sources of protein and they had many different ways of catching them – from hands, baskets or nets to poisoning, shooting or line fishing. Cassava was a staple food, which they had successfully learned to leach of its poisonous juice. They also grew yams, maize, cotton, arrowroot, peanuts, beans, cocoa and spices, rotating their crops to prevent soil erosion. It is documented that, in Jamaica, they had three harvests of maize annually, using maize and cassava to make bread, cakes and beer. Cotton was used to make clothing and hammocks, while the calabash tree was used to make ropes and cords, baskets and roofing. Plants were used for medicinal and spiritual purposes, and for face and body paint. Also important, both to the Arawaks and later to the Europeans, was the cultivation of tobacco, as a drug and a means of exchange.

In 1492 Arawaks inhabited all the greater islands of the Caribbean, but in Puerto Rico they were being invaded by the Caribs who had pushed north through the Lesser Antilles, stealing their women and enslaving or killing the men. The Caribs had also originated in South America, from around the Orinoco delta. In their migration north through the Caribbean islands they proved to be fierce warriors and their raids on the Arawak settlements were feared. Many of their women were captured Arawaks, and it was they who cultivated the land and performed the domestic chores. Polygamy was common, encouraged by the surplus of women resulting from the raids, and the Arawak female influence on Carib culture was strong.

Despite rumours of cannibalism reported to Columbus by frightened Arawaks, there appears to be no direct evidence of the practice, although the Spaniards took it seriously enough to use it as an excuse to justify taking slaves. After some unfortunate encounters, colonizers left the Caribs alone for many years. The Arawaks, on the other hand, were soon wiped out by disease, cruelty and murder. The Spanish invaders exacted tribute and forced labour while allowing their herds of cattle and pigs to destroy the Indians’ unfenced fields and clearings. Transportation to the mines resulted in shifts in the native population which could not be fed from the surrounding areas and starvation became common. Lack of labour in the Greater Antilles led to slave raids on the Lucayans in the Bahamas, but they also died or committed collective suicide. They felt that their gods had deserted them and there was nowhere for them to retreat or escape. Today there are no full-blooded Arawaks and only some 2,000 Caribs are left on Dominica (there has been no continuity of Carib language or religious belief on Dominica). The 500 years since Columbus’ arrival have served to obliterate practically all the evidence of the Caribbean’s indigenous civilization.

The Arawaks had three main deities, evidence of which have been found in stone and conch carvings in many of the Lesser Antilles as well as the well populated Greater Antilles, although their relative importance varied according to the island. The principal male god was Yocahú, yoca being the word for cassava and hú meaning ‘giver of’. It is believed that the tribes associated this deity’s power to provide cassava with the mystery of the volcanoes, since all the carvings are conical. The Yocahú cult was wiped out in the Lesser Antilles by the invading Caribs and, in the Greater Antilles, by the Spaniards, but it is thought to have existed from about AD 200.

The main female deity was a fertility goddess, often referred to as Atabeyra, but she is thought to have had several names relating to her other roles as goddess of the moon, mother of the sea, the tides and the springs, and the goddess of childbirth. In carvings she is usually depicted as a squatting figure with her hands up to her chin, sometimes in the act of giving birth.

A third deity is a dog god, named Opiyel-Guaobiran, meaning ‘the dog deity who takes care of the souls of the immediately deceased and is the son of the spirit of darkness’. Stone and shell carvings of a dog’s head or whole body have been found, many with holes and Y-shaped passages that would have been used to snuff narcotics and induce a religious trance in the shaman or priest, who could then ascertain the status of a departed soul for a recently bereaved relative.

Arawak society was essentially communal and organized around families. The smaller islands were particularly egalitarian but in the larger ones, where village communities of extended families numbered up to 500 people, there was an incipient class structure. Each village had a headman, called a cacique, whose duty it was to represent the village when dealing with other tribes, to settle family disputes and organize defence. However, he had no powers of coercion and was often little more than a nominal head. The position was largely hereditary, with the eldest son of the eldest sister having rights of succession, but women could and did become caciques, too. In the larger communities, there was some delegation of responsibility to the senior men, but economic activities were usually organized along family lines, and power was limited.

The division of labour was usually based on age and sex. The men would clear and prepare the land for agriculture and be responsible for defence of the village, while women cultivated the crops and were the major food producers, also making items such as mats, baskets, bowls and fishing nets. Women were in charge of raising the children, especially the girls, while the men taught the boys traditional customs, skills and rites.

One custom which aroused interest in the Spaniards was the ball game, not only for the sport and its ceremonial features, but because the ball was made of rubber and bounced, a phenomenon which had not previously been seen in Europe. Catholicism soon eradicated the game, but archaeological remains have been found in several islands, notably in Puerto Rico, but also in Hispaniola. Excavations in the Greater Antilles have revealed earth embankments and rows of elongated upright stones surrounding plazas or courts, pavements and stone balls. These are called bateyes, juegos de indios, juegos de bola, cercados or corrales de indios. Batey was the aboriginal name for the ball game, the rubber ball itself and also the court where it was played. The word is still used to designate the cleared area in front of houses in the country.

The ball game had religious and ceremonial significance but it was a sport and bets and wagers were important. It was played by two teams of up to 20 or 30 players, who had to keep the ball in the air by means of their hips, shoulders, heads, elbows and other parts of their body, but never with their hands. The aim was to bounce the ball in this manner to the opposing team until it hit the ground. Men and women played, but not usually in mixed sex games. Great athleticism was required and it is clear that the players practised hard to perfect their skill, several, smaller practice courts having been built in larger settlements. The game was sometimes played before the village made an important decision, and the prize could be a sacrificial victim, usually a prisoner, granted to the victor.

The Amerindians encountered by Columbus in the Greater Antilles had no overall tribal name but organized themselves in a series of villages or local chiefdoms, each of which had its own tribal name. The term ‘Arawak’ was used, at the time, by the Indians of the Guianas, some of whom had spread into Trinidad, but their territory was not explored until nearly a century later. The use of the generic term ‘Arawak’ to describe the Indians Columbus encountered, arose because of linguistic similarities with the Arawaks of the mainland. It is therefore surmised that migration took place many centuries before Columbus’ arrival, but that the two groups were not in contact at that time. The timing of the latest migration from the mainland and, consequently, the existence of the island Arawaks, is disputed, with some academics tracing it to about the time of Christ (the arrival of the Saladoids) and others to AD 1000 (the Ostionoids).

The inhabitants of the Bahamas were generally referred to as Lucayans, and those of the Greater Antilles as Taínos, but there were many sub-groupings. The inhabitants of the Lesser Antilles were, however, referred to as Carib and were described to Columbus as an aggressive tribe which sacrificed and sometimes ate the prisoners they captured in battle. It was from them that the Caribbean gets its name and from which the word cannibal is derived.

The earliest known inhabitants of the region, the Siboneys, migrated from Florida (some say Mexico) and spread throughout the Bahamas and the major islands. Most archaeological evidence of their settlements has been found near the shore, along bays or streams, where they lived in small groups. They were hunters and gatherers, living on fish and other seafood, small rodents, iguanas, snakes and birds. They gathered roots and wild fruits, such as guava, guanábana and mamey, but did not cultivate plants. They worked with primitive tools made out of stone, shell, bone or wood, for hammering, chipping or scraping, but had no knowledge of pottery. The Siboneys were eventually absorbed by the advance of the Arawaks migrating from the south, who had made more technological advances in agriculture, arts and crafts.

The people now known as Arawaks migrated from the Guianas to Trinidad and on through the island arc to Cuba. Their population expanded because of the natural fertility of the islands and the abundance of fruit and seafood, helped by their agricultural skills in cultivating and improving wild plants and their excellent boat-building and fishing techniques. They were healthy, tall and lived to a ripe old age. It is estimated that up to eight million may have lived on the island of Hispaniola alone.

Try phoning a specialist travel clinic if your own doctor is unfamiliar with health in the region. Make sure you have sufficient medical travel insurance, get a dental check, know your own blood group and if you suffer a long-term condition such as diabetes or epilesy, obtain a Medic Alert bracelet/necklace (http://www.medicalalert.co.uk).

The major risks posed in the region are those caused by insect disease carriers such as mosquitoes and sandflies. The key parasitic and viral diseases are malaria and Dengue Fever. Be aware that you are always at risk from these diseases, Dengue Fever is particularly hard to protect against as the mosquitoes can bite throughout throughout the day as well as night (unlike those that carry malaria); try to wear clothes that cover arms and legs and also use effective mosquito repellent. Mosquito nets dipped in permethrin provide a good physical and chemical barrier at night. Some form of diarrhoea or intestinal upset is almost inevitable, the standard advice is to be careful with drinking water and ice. Always buy bottled water and ask from where any water that is served in a restaurant came from. Food can also pose a problem, be wary of salads if you don’t know whether they have been washed or not. There is a constant threat of tuberculosis (TB) and although the BCG vaccine is available, it is still not guaranteed protection. It is best to avoid unpasteurised dairy products and try not to let people cough and splutter all over you.

Polio and Tetanus jabs are recommended if you have not been immunised in the last 10 years; five doses of Tetanus vaccine provides lifetime innoculation. Hepatitis A is also recommended. BCG is recommended for stays exceeding one month. The islands of the Caribbean have no Yellow fever and want to keep it that way; if you arrive from an infected country almost all the islands will want to see a yellow fever certificate. Malaria is limited to Haiti, parts of the Dominican Republic and parts of Jamaica, exclusively in the malignant (Pfalciparum) form .

Credit cards are widely used and ATMs can be found at banks in all the main towns. Keep your money, credit cards, etc, either safely on your person, or in a hotel safe. If your guesthouse has no safe in which to store money, passport, tickets, etc, try local banks.

Some people recommend setting up two bank accounts before travelling. One has all your funds but no debit card; the other has no funds but does have a debit card. As you travel, use the internet to transfer money from the full account to the empty account when you need it and withdraw cash from an ATM. That way, if your debit card is stolen, you won’t be at risk of losing all your capital. Also, by using a debit card rather than a credit card you incur fewer bank charges.

Mila Tours, 100 S Greenleaf, Gurnee, Il 6003-3378, USA, T1-800-3677378, http://www.milatours.com. Latin America and the Dominican Republic.

Wilderness Explorers, 176 Middle St, Georgetown, Guyana, T592-2277698, http://www.wilderness-explorers.com.

Specialists in upmarket destinations include ITC Classics/Caribbean Connection, http://www.itcclassics.co.uk; Caribtours, T020-7751 0660, http://www.caribtours.co.uk; Kuoni, T01306-747000, http://www.kuoni.co.uk; Elegant Resorts, http://www.elegantresorts.co.uk; Hayes and Jarvis, http://www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk; Virgin Holidays, http://www.virginholidays.co.uk.

Visas and immigration

Since the clampdown on security in 2006-07, all travellers need a passport except in cases such as Americans visiting the US Virgin Islands, which are a US territory. Anyone (including US citizens) travelling from the Caribbean requires a passport to enter the USA so, while you may get into an island with alternative proof of identity, you will need a passport if travelling on to any US territory. If intending to visit Puerto Rico or the US Virgin Islands, or making connections through Miami or another US gateway, a visa for the United States will not be necessary if your home country and the airline on which you are travelling are part of the US Visa Waiver Program. A US consulate will supply all relevant details. Australians and New Zealanders should note that many islands impose strict entry laws on holders of the above passports. Satisfying visa and other requirements, if not done at home, can take at least a day, usually involves expense, and passport photographs will be needed: be prepared. On all forms, refer to yourself as a ‘visitor’ rather than a ‘tourist’. If asked where you are staying and you have not booked in advance, say any hotel (they do not usually check), but do not say you are going to camp and do not say that you are going to arrange accommodation later. You should carry your passport in a safe place about your person, or if not going far, leave it in the hotel safe. If staying in a place for several weeks, it is worth registering at your embassy or consulate. Then, if your passport is lost or stolen, it will be replaced quicker. It is also a good idea to keep photocopies of essential documents, as well as additional passport-sized photographs.

These are cheap, but services tend not to be very convenient, and often involve a night away from the point of departure, even on small islands. This is because buses start in outlying towns in the early morning and return from the capital in the afternoon. Many smaller islands do not even have a bus service. The larger islands, such as Cuba, the Dominican Republic and Jamaica have good, long-distance services between major towns although outlying areas are usually served by minivans or colectivos.

Renting a car gives the greatest flexibility, but is also hardest on the pocket. You can expect to pay more than in the USA or Europe. A number of islands require drivers to take out a temporary, or visitor driver’s licence (these are mentioned in the text). Some places will not issue a licence to those over 70 without a medical certificate. The minimum age for rental is usually 25. In small places, renting a motorcycle, scooter or bicycle is a good idea.

Taxis are plentiful, but generally not cheap. Some islands, eg Trinidad, have route taxis, which are inexpensive and travel only on set routes. On many islands, taxi fares are set by the tourist office or government.

Cuba is the only country in the Caribbean with a passenger rail service. St Kitts has a scenic railway using the sugar industry network, which runs in a circular route around the island.

Exploring the Caribbean by boat has never been easier. New marinas and local communities near popular anchorages are catering to the increasing number of yachts which have made the Caribbean their home. The Caribbean islanders have coined the name ‘yachties’ to refer to those people who live and travel on their own boats as contrasted with those who visit the islands on chartered boats and cruise ships or spend their vacation at landbased resorts. While this information is directed toward the yachties, bareboat charterers will also find it useful.

Many islands insist that visitors have an air ticket to their home country before being allowed to enter; for non-US citizens travelling to the Caribbean from the USA, this means a ticket from the USA to their home country, not a ticket back to the USA. Tickets to other countries will not suffice. This becomes a problem if you are not going home for 12 months since airline tickets become void after a year. Some airlines sell tickets on the six- to 12-month extended payment plan; these can be credited when you have left the islands with restrictive entry requirements. Even if you propose to take some boat trips between islands, we recommend that you purchase flights in advance and refund those that have not been used later.

SGV Reisezentrum Weggis, Switzerland, T041-390 1133, http://www.frachtschiffreisen.ch.

Discovery Initiatives, The Travel House, 51 Castle St, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, GL7 1QD, T01285-643333, enquiry@discoveryinitiatives.com, are pioneers in special wildlife, marine and conservation interest groups and tailor-made ecotours.

Exodus Travels, 9 Weir Road, London SW12 0LT, T020-87723822, http://www.exodus.co.uk.

Interchange, Interchange House, 27 Stafford Rd, Croydon, Surrey CR0 4NG, T020-86813612, http://www.interchange.uk.com, specializes in Haiti, Cuba and Aruba.

Journey Latin America, 12-13 Heathfield Terrace, Chiswick, London W4 4JE, T020- 8747 8315, and in Manchester, T0161- 832 1441, http://www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk, is good for Cuba and for tailor-made holidays combining Latin America and the Caribbean. Also offers flight options.

Progressive Tours, 12 Porchester Pl, Marble Arch, London W2 2BS, T020-74865704.

Regent Holidays, 15 John St, Bristol BS1 2HR, T0117-9211711.

South American Experience, 47 Causton St, Pimlico, London SW1P 4AT, T020-79765511, www.southamerican experience.co.uk.

Trips Worldwide Ltd, 14 Frederick Place, Clifton, Bristol, BS8 1AS, T0117-311 4400, T0117-311 4494, http://www.tripsworldwide.co.uk, offers tailor-made trips to the ‘Alternative Caribbean’.

Travltips Cruise and Freighter Association, T800-872 8584, http://www.travltips.com.

The most popular way of visiting the Caribbean by ship is on a cruise liner. It is possible to break your journey for a few days if you want to stay on an island but you will have to check with the company to see whether they can pick you up later. There are also sailing cruisers (eg the Windjammer and Star Clipper fleets) which allow flexible itineraries for cruising between the islands. Windjammer Barefoot Cruises (T305-6726453 in the USA, http://www.windjammer.com) which operates five tall-masted ships (Flying Cloud, British Virgin Islands; Legacy, US and British Virgin Islands; Mandalay, Leeward and Windward Islands; Polynesia, French West Indies; Yankee Clipper, Grenadines) and a supply ship (Amazing Grace), can be contacted direct in Florida. The supply ship, MV Amazing Grace, sails every month from West Palm Beach, picking up southbound passengers in Freeport, Bahamas and visiting lots of islands as it meets up with the Windjammer tall ships, delivering monthly supplies, before turning round in Trinidad after two weeks and stopping at different ports from the southbound trip. For a budget option, Easy Cruise, http://www.easycruise.com, started cruising the islands from Barbados in the 2005/2006 winter season, allowing you to get on and off the ship anywhere along the route as long as you stay on board at least two nights. The route may vary in future winter seasons, but included St Vincent, Martinique, Bequia, Grenada and St Lucia, with rates starting from US$32 per cabin, including port taxes but no meals. There are few guest houses to compare with those rates and certainly no air fares.

For cargo ships carrying passengers, it is recommended that you enquire in your own country. In general, it is very difficult to secure a passage on a cargo ship from Europe to the Caribbean without making full arrangements in advance. Round trips are easier to organize than one-way passages, although some companies are now offering a flight home. Fares range from about US$70-130 per person per day; cheaper than a passenger cruise, but without the continuous entertainment.

A month gives you serious time to get to know parts of the region. You could visit all the French islands, or all the Dutch islands; cover Cuba from top to toe; investigate both sides of Hispaniola: the Dominican Republic and its neighbour, Haiti.

With only one week to spare it is best to stay on one island and take things easy. If you are basing yourself on an island with good links by ferry then a day trip to a neighbouring island would be plenty. For example, you could stay on Anguilla and hop across to the shops on St-Martin; base yourself on Providenciales and go sightseeing on any of the Caicos Islands; go to Antigua and fly or sail over to Barbuda to see the frigate bird sanctuary or fly to Montserrat to see the volcano.

Finding your way around the Caribbean can seem like a daunting task – so many islands to choose from. Which one or which group would suit you? Here’s a handy A-Z trip around them all to help you decide where to start, finish, or just lounge.

The Caribbean is your oyster and where you go will be determined by the size of your budget. You could sail through the arc, stopping in where you felt like it and spending nights on shore at whim. There are those who have spent a couple of months cycling through the islands. Alternatively, set yourself a task: learn Spanish in the Dominican Republic and then put your skills to the test on any of the Spanish-speaking islands, or enrol on a salsa dancing course in Cuba and once you’ve mastered the art, you’ll be in demand at all the bars and clubs as you travel around.

Two weeks gives you time to explore two or three small islands or a large one in depth. You need more than two weeks to see everything the Dominican Republic has to offer. You will probably have exhausted all there is to do on a small island in a week, so choosing a split destination is a good idea. For transport and immigration reasons this is usually easier if you choose places like Antigua and Barbuda, St Kitts and Nevis, Trinidad and Tobago, which are one country. Alternatively you could explore the British Virgin Islands or St Vincent and the Grenadines with a week ashore and a week on a yacht.

A family holiday destination with great beaches, watersports and safe swimming. Direct, non-stop flights from Europe and North America make this island ideal for introducing children to the Caribbean. Good transport links with other islands facilitate two-centre holidays or more extensive island hopping. English Harbour is particularly picturesque, with yachts filling a historic bay that has been a popular staging post for centuries.

Barbados hasn’t got the best beaches in the Caribbean, there are no volcanoes, no rainforest, but visitors of all ages and budgets come back time and time again to stay in a luxury hotel room or a moderate apartment. You can play golf, tennis, squash and any number of other sports, or you can watch cricket, horseracing or polo. There is lovely walking along the rugged north and east coasts on the Atlantic side, while beaches are best along the more protected west and south coasts. There are more sights than you can fit in a two-week holiday: fortifications, plantation houses, museums, rum distilleries and gardens.

The largest island in the Caribbean, Cuba is blessed with varied and picturesque scenery, from the rolling green sugar cane land or flat cattle plains to forested mountains, lakes, caves, beaches and swamps. Travellers come for the vibrant culture, music, dance, art and the people who make it. The island’s turbulent political past and its current Communist stability is of interest to many. Colonial towns and cities are unspoilt by advertising or neon and American influence is minimal: Cuba is Cuban. You can laze on a beach, hike up a mountain, cycle the deserted roads, or wander around fortresses, historical monuments and museums.

Dense forests, volcanic hills, rivers, waterfalls and the Boiling Lake provide good hiking and birdwatching opportunities. It is also a highly regarded diving destination and you can see whales and dolphins offshore. Hotels around the island are small, intimate and low-key, greater development being deterred by the lack of beaches. It is the only island where Caribs have survived and they still retain many of their traditions such as canoe carving.

This is the Hispanic side of Hispaniola, with some stunning scenery: the highest mountain in the Caribbean and some of the most beautiful beaches. The capital, Santo Domingo, was the first city in Spanish America and it boasts the first cathedral and the first university. Hotels sprawl along the coast for sun, sea and sand worshippers, but for anyone wanting action, you can go mountain biking, whitewater rafting, hiking, canyoning or horse riding. If you’ve still got any energy after all that for nightlife, the discos are throbbing with merengue.

Grenada is known as the spice island because of the nutmeg, mace and other spices it produces. It has a beautiful mountainous interior and several national parks. Many different ecosystems are found, from dry tropical forest and mangroves on the coast, through lush rainforest on the hillsides, to elfin woodland on the peaks. St George’s, now recovering from Hurricane Ivan in 2004, is widely acknowledged as the prettiest harbour city in the West Indies, blending French and English architectural styles with a picturesque setting on steep hills overlooking the bay.

A beautiful island with rolling hills and steep gullies, the spectacular Blue Mountains overlook a coastline indented with bays and coves. Rain falls freely, water is abundant, the vegetation is luxuriant and colours are vibrant. The people have a culture to match, from reggae and rastafarianism to English plantation houses and cricket. Music is everywhere and Jamaica is a hub of creativity in the Caribbean. Every conceivable watersport is on offer in the resort areas on the north coast, where the beaches are safe for swimming.

Like Guadeloupe, this is a piece of France in the tropics, where language and customs have adapted to the climate. There is something for everybody: a variety of hotels; good beaches; watersports; historical attractions; beautiful scenery; hiking; birdwatching and countless other activities. Tourism is well-developed in the south, but a large part of the more mountainous north is taken up by protected rainforest. The volcano, Pelée, last erupted in 1902, when it destroyed the former capital, St-Pierre, killing all but one of its 26,000 inhabitants.

The ‘Emerald Isle’, with its Irish influences, is learning to live with an active volcano, which has been erupting since 1995. Volcano watching is now a tourist attraction, with a strategically placed observatory where scientists monitor activity. The southern part of the island, including the capital, Plymouth, is under a blanket of ash and uninhabited. Priority was given to building houses in the north, but now economic and cultural needs are being satisfied, with a new airport and cricket pitch.

Puerto Rico’s inhabitants are descended from Taíno Indians, their Spanish colonial masters and African slaves. San Juan, the island’s capital, was founded in 1510 and the lovely old city stands on a spit of land jutting out to sea. The sprawling, hideous new city is US-influenced, with shopping malls, industrial zones and wide highways. Large resorts, casinos, marinas and golf courses line the coast, but inland there are mountains, rainforest, caves and archaeological sites. The islands of Vieques and Culebra are quiet and relaxing.

Great sailing spot. The guys here are good wave sailors and slalom racers as the island boasts all conditions at many locations. Best winds: Jan/Feb and Jul.

St Kitts is the new hotspot for tourism development since the closure of the sugar industry and subsequent unemployment freed up land and labour for golf courses, villas and other tourist resorts. The island has long been developing its southern peninsula where there are golden sandy beaches, but most of the island has until now been untouched by tourism. Rugged volcanic peaks, forests and old fortresses and sugar mills produce spectacular views and hiking is very rewarding. Two miles away, the conical island of Nevis is smaller, quieter and very desirable. Here, plantation houses have been converted into some of the most romantic hotels in the Caribbean. Cycling or hiking along the old goat trails affords panoramic views.

Very popular as both a family holiday destination and a romantic paradise for honeymooners. Its beaches are golden or black sand and many are favoured by turtles as a nesting site. The mountainous interior is outstandingly beautiful and there are forest reserves to protect the St Lucian parrot and other wildlife. Sightseeing opportunities include sulphur springs, colonial fortifications and plantation tours. St Lucia has a rich cultural heritage, French, English and African, and has produced two Nobel prize winners.

Bike rental and tours are available on the island but traffic is heavy on Sint Maarten and you need someone to show you how to get off the beaten track.

St Vincent is green and fertile and very pretty, with its fishing villages, coconut groves, banana plantations and volcanic interior. However, it is widely known for the superb sailing conditions provided by its 32 sister islands and cays and most visitors spend some time on a yacht, even if only for a day. The Grenadines have a certain exclusivity, some of them are privately owned and Mustique is known for its villas owned by the rich, royal and famous.

Trinidad has a rich culture, largely a mixture of the traditions of African slaves and Indian indentured labourers, brought together so spectacularly in the world’s best carnival. Tobago is a laid back island where visitors appreciate the clear, calm sea, the sandy beaches, the diving and snorkelling and the small, friendly hotels and guest houses. The two islands together are home to more species of birds than any other island in the Caribbean and birdwatchers have long been attracted to the forests and swamps.

Just off the South American coast Bonaire has long been known as a ‘hot spot’ for diving, and is one of the few islands (like the Caymans) which has devoted itself to scuba diving. A far-sighted government established a marine park way back in 1979 when conservation was not even being discussed by most diving destinations. Bonaire, being very experienced in offering diving, has a wide selection of about a dozen dive operations, including photo and marine life education facilities. Diving sites are also varied with reef, wreck and wall dives. In fact, the Marine Park Guide for Bonaire lists over 50 dive sites. The town pier, right off the capital, has long been a favourite night dive and the pilings are covered in soft sponges and invertebrate life. Neighbouring Curaçao is also building a reputation for conservation, with an expansion of diving facilities and exciting diving sites including reefs and a couple of wreck dives of interest. The freighter, Superior Producer (rather deep at 100 ft) is intact and has a variety of growth including beautiful orange tubastera sponges.

These islands have excellent sailing and there are many charter companies offering crewed or bareboat yachts. Regattas attract competitors of international standard. Races are accompanied by lots of parties and related activities typical of the yachtie fraternity. There are plenty of hotels, and a few really special places – popular with newly weds or the seriously rich.

These three low-lying little islands south of Cuba are green with pine and mangroves, while underwater the reefs and walls offer some of the world’s most thrilling dive sites. Grand Cayman is busy with its offshore financial sector as well as tourism and Seven Mile Beach is wall-to-wall hotels. Cayman Brac and Little Cayman are quiet, unhurried places where you can escape the crowds and relax without giving up your creature comforts.

This tiny Dutch island rises out of the sea, green and lush. An extinct volcano, its peak is aptly named Mount Scenery. Underwater, the landscape is equally spectacular and divers treasure the marine park, noted for its ‘virginity’. Ancient trails weave their way around the island, the most stunning being the 1,064 irregular steps up Mount Scenery through different types of tropical vegetation according to altitude.

has safe and pleasant walking, and distances are not too great. The scenery is varied: hills, woodland and unspoilt beaches.

These flat, coral islands have miles of sandy beaches and are a water playground. Diving and snorkelling are superb among coral gardens, wrecks and walls which drop dramatically to the floor of the ocean. Most hotels are on the island of Providenciales, spread along Grace Bay on the north shore. Grand Turk is the seat of government but is a quiet, unhurried place with a few small hotels and a new cruise ship dock. Other inhabited islands, North Caicos, Middle Caicos, South Caicos and Salt Cay have tiny populations – good places to escape the crowds.

This is France in the tropics: coffee, croissants, baguettes and delicious, spicy Créole food, which you can wash down with some very fine rum. Guadeloupe is really two islands: the western Basse-Terre, which is mountainous and forested, with a huge national park popular with hikers, and Grand-Terre, to the east, which is smaller, flatter and more densely populated with good beaches. The outer islands of Les Saintes, La Désirade and Marie Galante are easily reached from Guadeloupe but are quiet and untouched by mass tourism.

The only country successfully to have carried out a slave rebellion, Haiti’s religious beliefs, music, dance and art stem directly from Africa with French influences from colonial days. French Créole is nearly everybody’s first language. The most impressive fortification is the massive La Citadelle, built on top of a 900-m peak to deter any French re-invasion. Haiti has suffered decades of civil unrest, it is the poorest country in the Western Hemisphere and tourism is minimal. Poverty has led Haitians to cut down all their trees for fuel, leaving the hillsides bare.

An excellent source of maps is Stanfords (12-14 Long Acre, Covent Garden, London WC2, T020-7836 1321, as well as 29 Corn St, Bristol, BS1, and 39 Spring Gardens, Manchester, M2, http://www.stanfords.co.uk) .

Off the west coast, large herds of spinner and spotted dolphins are seen regularly. Sometimes bottlenose dolphins and pilot whales are also found and, sporadically, sperm and humpback whales. Tours are run by Sea Breeze Tours/Guesthouse, contact: Hal Daize, Arnos Vale Post Office, T784-458 4969, seabreezetours@vincysurf.com, aboard the 36-ft sloop, Sea Breeze, or on a 28-ft power boat. Trips cost US$30-40 and depart from Calliaqua Lagoon on Indian Bay, southeast of Kingstown and Arnos Vale Airport. Snorkelling and a trip to Baleine Falls can also be included. Tours are almost year-round but are best Apr to Sep when there is an 80% success rate; avoid windy weather months of mid-Dec to mid-Feb.

For groups organizing a serious hiking/camping expedition in the Caribbean, contact the Duke of Edinburgh’s Award Scheme, Bridge House, Cavans Lane, Bridgetown, Barbados, T246-436 9763, who may be able to provide advice and to supply the address of a local organization on most islands with expedition experience. In the UK the Ramblers Association has a subsidiary company Ramblers Holidays (T+44 1707- 331133, http://www.ramblersholidays.co.uk) offering walking holidays in Barbados, Cuba and St Lucia.

By watching whales and dolphins in the Caribbean, you can actually contribute to saving them. Many dolphins are still killed, mainly by fishermen, for food or fish bait, while pilot whales and even rare beaked whales are commonly harpooned, particularly in the eastern Caribbean. Almost every winter, over the past few years, two humpbacks have been killed off Bequia, nearly always a precious mother and calf, who have very high site fidelity to their mating and calving grounds; local whalers are effectively removing what could be a healthy whale-watching industry.

Your support of whale watching may have the biggest impact in countries of the eastern Caribbean: Dominica, Grenada, St Lucia and St Vincent and the Grenadines. Over the past few years, Japan has contributed to the development of these nations, by helping to build airports and adding fish docks and piers. In exchange, Japan has counted on the support of these four governments, all members of the International Whaling Commission (IWC), in its attempt to re-open commercial whaling. You can help conservation simply by saying you enjoy seeing whales and dolphins in local waters. If you see whales and dolphins being killed at sea, report the incident to local and national tourism outlets of the country concerned. For more information contact the Whale and Dolphin Conservation Society, T0870-870 5001, http://www.wdcs.org.

Dolphins (and orcas) are also being captured for use in dolphinariums, where they are isolated from their pods (families), fed a diet of frozen fish and antibiotics and taught to perform tricks for tourists. This is big business, despite the advertising literature in which the owners allege they are carrying out scientific research into ‘understanding’ dolphins. There is a high mortality rate and captive dolphins suffer mental and physical stress, often with behavioural problems. However, there are more entertainment facilities opening all the time, with governments bowing to pressure for attractions to pull in the cruise ships. Whale and dolphin watching out at sea provides local people with another way to look at these intriguing animals – as well as a potentially more sustainable source of income. For more information or to offer support, contact The Marine Connection T+44 (0)20-7499 9196, http://www.marineconnection.org.

Off Bequia, 9 miles (15 km) south of St Vincent is the site of the old whaling station, once the hub of Caribbean whaling in this century. Access can only be arranged locally.

There are periodic trips to see the 60 to 100 humpback whales that winter north of the islands, from January to March. There are also spinner and other dolphins to be seen. For a full-day catamaran sail contact Grethelyn Piper of the Environmental Association of St Thomas and St John (EAST), PO Box 12379, St Thomas, USVI 00801, T340-776 1976. In the BVI, Paul Knapp, Jr, PO Box 185, Road Town, Tortola, T284-494 3463, runs humpback whale-listening tours from 30 Dec to 15 Apr on a 13-ft motor cruiser or a 30-ft sloop close to shore. The whales are rarely seen and never close-up, but their sounds fill the boat. Excellent tapes and CDs of whale songs are also sold. Departure is from Brewers Bay Campground, Tortola.

Famous for its diving, Grand Cayman also offers good windsurfing, the east end is popular for beginners to advanced and everything in between, flat water on the inside and bump and jump further out. Best winds: Nov to Mar.

A great location but with no facilities, take your own gear and hire a yacht out of Grenada or St Vincent, or visit Bequia, a beautiful island with the only rental centre in the area. Although the wind blows and the sun shines, there is only one windsurf school run by Basil, a Bequian with a big smile. Good location for learners or advanced sailors with flat water and wave sailing, well off the beaten track. Best winds: Nov to Feb and Jun/Jul.

is a hugely exciting activity both to watch and do, but it is often limited to certain times of the day so that you don’t clash with windsurfers or mow down swimmers. Barbados, the Dominican Republic and Aruba have good facilities; operators are given in the listings for individual islands.

Windsurfer’s paradise waiting to be discovered, good flat water and wavesailing, definitely no crowds, the island is small enough to offer all conditions for every skill level. Best winds: Dec/Jan and Jun/Jul.

Small, exclusive island with some good windsurf spots for beginners and advanced, and it is quiet. Best winds: Dec to Feb.

Orient Bay (Baie Orientale) has good winds and plenty of facilities. St-Martin offers good learning and advanced slalom sailing. Best winds: Dec/Jan and Jul.

Has flat turquoise waters and steady winds, making this an ideal learner and intermediate destination, perfect for a family diving and windsurf vacation. Best winds: Feb to Mar intermediate, Oct to Nov for beginners.

The three US Virgin Islands are very American. St Thomas attracts cruise ships and when several are in port the streets of town are heavily congested with shoppers. St John is dominated by the Virgin Islands National Park, which has been in existence since 1956 and has some excellent trails for walkers. St Croix is the poorest of the three but has a great deal to offer in the way of tourist attractions. All three have good hotels and are popular with sailors.