Bogotá travel guide

Banks

Banks are everywhere in Bogotá where there is commercial activity. Some head offices are grouped around the Avianca building at the corner of Plaza San Francisco, others have moved to North Bogotá on or near C 72.

The best way to obtain pesos in Bogotá is to use ATMs. Any other method will require your passport and, often, queues. Since it will probably require at least 2 or 3 attempts, either go downtown or in the north, where there are many banks. Unfortunately, there are no rules; there are countless ATMs accepting MasterCard, Visa and other cards; but machines may be down or out of cash, or just don’t accept the cards stated. ATMs also tend to give out a frustratingly small amount of cash at a time (though you can go back several times a day), resulting in much money lost in transaction fees. Most banks have a paltry COP300 (US$167) maximum, though Davivienda (COP500/ US$278) and Bancolombia (COP400/ US$222) are more generous. Those in more affluent areas tend to dispense more.

Exchange

Emerald Trade Center, Av Jiménez, Cra 5-43, Local 128, T2866181, open 0800-1800, accepts Thomas Cook TCs. Titan, Cra 7, No 18-42, Local 116, T3413875. Cambios Country, Cra 11, No 71-40, Of 201, and at El Dorado airport, T413 8979. Several other city offices, good rates, speedy service. Orotur, Cra 10, No 26-05 (below Hotel Tequendama in pedestrian subway) is quick and efficient, cash only, including sterling. Cambios New York Money, in CC Unicentro, Av 15, No 123-30, loc 1-118, accepts sterling, efficient. Other cambios on Av Jiménez de Quesada, between Cras 6 and 11, and in the north of the city. On Sun exchange is virtually impossible except at the airport. CC Hacienda Santa Bárbara has several cambios but buying sterling can be difficult. To replace lost Amex TCs, American Express, Expreso Viajes y Turismo, C 85, No 20-32, T593 4949 (has other branches), open 0800-1900, Sat 0900-1400, with full details, a police report of the loss and preferably proof of purchase. They first authorize cash advance on Amex cards and then direct you to the appropriate bank (Banco Unión Colombia).

Cultural centres

British Council, Cra 9, No 76-49, Piso 5, T3259090, http://www.britishcouncil.org/colombia. New modern centre, open Mon-Fri 0900-1700, good TEFL library, British newspapers. Centro Colombo Americano, C 19, No 2-49, T3347640 or C 110, No 15-36, T2755052, http://www.colombobogota.edu.co. English and Spanish courses, recommended. Also in Medellín. Alianza Colombo-Francesa, Cra 3, No 18-45, T3411348 and Cra 7, No 84-72, T2368605, www.alianza francesa.org.co. Films in French, newspapers, library monthly bulletin, etc. Other branches in major cities across Colombia. Goethe Institut, Cra 7, No 81-57, T2551843, http://www.goethe.de/ins/co/bog/deindex.htm.

Embassies and consulates

Austria, T3263680 (emergencies) Australia, Cra 18, No 90-38, T6365247. Belgium, Apto 3564, C 26, No 4A-45, 7th floor, T3800380, bogota@diplobel.org. Brazil, C 93, No 14-20, piso 8, T2180800. Canada, Cra 7, No 114-33, piso 14, T6579951, http://www.dfait-maeci.gc.ca Cuba, Cra 9, No 92-54, T6217054. Ecuador, C 89, No 13-07, T6350322, www.embajada ecuacol.net. France, Cra 11, No 93-12, T6381400, http://www.ambafrance-co.org. Germany, Cra 69, No 25B-44, Piso 7, T4232600, http://www.bogota.diplo.de. Italy, C 93B, No 9-92, T2186680, www.ambbogota. esteri.it. Israel, C 35, No 7-25, Piso 14, T3277500. Japan, Cra 7, No 71-21, Torre B, piso 11, T3175001. Netherlands, Cra 13, No 93-40, piso 5, T6384200. Mexico, C 82, No 9-25, T6104070. Panama, C 92, No 7-70, T2575067. Spain, C 92, No 12-68, T6220090. Sweden, C 72 Bis, No 5-83, piso 9, Edif Av Chile, T3256180, http://www.swedenabroad.com. Switzerland, Cra 9, No 74-08, Of 101, T3497230. United Kingdom, Cra 9, No 76-49, 9th floor, T3268300. USA, C 22D Bis, No 47-51, T3150811. Venezuela, Cra 11, No 87-51, piso 5, T6401213 (610 6622 visa information), 0830-1200. Visas can be collected the following day 1200-1630. Enquire by telephone before you go.

Immigration

DAS head office, Cra 28, No 17A-00, T208 6060, http://www.das.gov.co. Open 0730-1530, or T153. Cundinamarca office, C 58, No 10-55, T5701077. Dirección de Extranjería (for extending entry permits): C 100, No 11B-27, T6017200, open Mon-Thu 0730-1600, Fri 0730-1530. DAS will not authorize photocopies of passports; look in Yellow Pages for notaries, who will.

Internet

Most hotels and hostels and some restaurants are now Wi-Fi-enabled and provide several computers for surfing the net. There are many internet cafés, charging US$1-2 per hr.

Listelnet Communications, Cra 3, No 15-47. Skype and heaphones. International calls. Café Xanaledra, Cra 4, No 12-78 Esquina. Skype and headphones as well as coffee, tea and cake. Café del Cubo, Cr 4, No 13-57, Mon-Sat 0900-2200. The tourist kiosk on Plaza Bolívar, Cra 8, No 9-83, has 3 computers. First 15 mins free. Coffeemail, CC Santa Bárbara. Mon-Sat 1030-2000, Sun 1400- 1800. Helpful staff. US$1-2 per hr. Foto and Internet Café, Tequendama Hotel/Centro Internacional complex (2nd floor), loc 164, helpful, good service, Mon-Fri 0700-2000, Sat 0900-1600, US$0.90 per hr. Web Café, Diag 27, No 6-81, Mon-Fri 0900-2000, Sat 1000-1800.

Language courses

You need a student visa, not a tourist visa, to study. Some of the best Spanish courses are in the Universidad Nacional, T316 5000, http://www.unal.edu.co, about US$180 for 2 months, 8 hrs per week, or Universidad de los Andes, T3394949, http://www.uniandes.edu.co, US$300, 6 weeks, and Pontificia Universidad Javeriana, T320 8320 ext 4620, www.javer iana.edu.co. Good-value Spanish courses at the Universidad Pedagógica, C 72, No 11-86, T594 1894. Good reports, around US$90 for 40 hrs, 2 hrs per day, one of the cheapest on offer. Language exchanges with students wishing to learn English are also popular. Enquire at Platypus hostel. Carmen Trujillo, T3158741325 (mob)/T70439636, carmen. trujillo@ colombiaquest.com is recommended. English, French and Italian spoken.

Medical services

Cruz Roja Nacional, Av 68, No 66-31, T428 0111. Open 0830-1800, consultations/ inoculations US$12.50. Fundación Santa Fe de Bogotá, C 119, No 9-33, T6293066, and El Bosque, C 134, No 12-55, T274 0577, are both modern, private hospitals, with good service. For vaccinations, try Clínica Marly, C 50, No 7 -72, T2454729.

Doctor

Dr Paul Vaillancourt, Cra 11, No 94A-25, Of 401, T6356312. English-speaking. Dr Brigitte Scholz, C 183, No 76-65, T6704982.

Dentist

Hyung Kuk Kim, Diagonal 86A, No 32-43, T6161151, tmask10@hotmail.com. English-speaking.

Post office

Main Avianca ticket office and Deprisa airmail office in basement of Ed Avianca, Cra 7, No 16-36, open 0730-1900 Mon to Fri, 0800-1500 Sat, closed Sun and holidays (poste restante 0730-1800, Mon-Sat, letters kept for 1 month, US$1 per letter). Parcels by air are sent from here too. Also Cra 7 y C 26-27, near Planetarium; C 140 between Cra 19 y Autopista. Parcels by air, contact Avianca. Adpostal, Cra 7, No 27-54, handles international parcels.

Emergency

Fire T119, Ambulance T125, Red Cross T132, Red Cross ambulance T127. CAI Police T156 or 112.

International
Calls can be made from several Telecom offices in centre of Bogotá (eg in the Tequendama Hotel complex, Cra 13, No 26-45, Mon-Sat 0800-1900); all close within ½ an hour of 2000 and may be closed on holidays. Purchase of phone cards is recommended if you are using call boxes.

There are many local religious festivals and parades at Easter and Christmas. One of the best is the Fiesta de Reyes Magos (Three Kings) in Jan in the suburb of Egipto (up the hill to the east of Candelaria) with traditional processions.

Air

Since international and domestic flights use both the main El Dorado airport, T4251000, and the Puente Aéreo, you must check which terminal your flight will use.

To Cartagena hourly flights with Avianca and AeroRepública. To Medellín with Avianca, Satena and AeroRepública. To Cali with Avianca, AeroRepública and Satena. To Bucaramanga with Avianca and AeroRepública. To Barranquilla with Avianca and AeroRepública. To Armenia with Avianca, Easyfly and Aires.

Local airline offices

AeroRepública, Cra 10, No 27-51, Local 165, T342722, Reservations T3209090. Aires, Aeropuerto El Dorado, T0190033199440, or at Cra 11, No 76–11, Local 103, T3213649. Avianca, Av 19, No 4-37, Local 2, T2849860, airport T4139862. Satena, Cra 10, No 26-21, of 210, T4238500, military airline, not the best for comfort and delays.

International airline offices

Air France, Cra 9A, No 99-07, Torre 1, T6506000. American, C 71A, No 5-90, Local 101, T4398022. British Airways, T018009156641 (toll free). Continental, Cra 7, No 71–21, Torre A, Oficina 2, T3425279 or Cra 10, No 26-35, local 7, T018009440219. Iberia, Cra 19, No 85-11, T6166111, airport, T4138715. Lufthansa, C 100, No 8A-49, Torre B, piso 8 T6180300. Mexicana, Av 15, No 114-36, Oficina 108. Qantas, C 116, No 9-35, piso 1, T2132062. TACA, C 113, No 7-21, Local 124, T018009518222 (toll free). Varig, Cra 7A, No 33-24, T6507100. Most airlines, local and international, have offices in both central and North Bogotá. Many international airline offices are closed on Sat and Sun.

Local

Buses stop (in theory) by ‘Paradero’ boards but there are very few left and normally passengers flag buses down near street corners. Bus fares are from US$0.55 up, depending on length of route and time of day. Most buses have day/night tariff advertised in the window. Busetas (small and green) charge a little more and can be dirty. There are some ejecutivo (red and white) routes with more comfortable seats, at US$0.70. Colectivos are small vans, cramped but faster, US$0.80. To go north, pick one up at C 19/Cra 3, or any bus marked ‘Unicentro’; they follow Cra 7. Fares are a bit higher at night and on holidays. The network is complicated and confusing. However, people waiting for the buses are more than happy to help you to find the correct one.

Long-distance

The long-distance bus terminal, Terminal de Transportes, is near Av Boyacá (Cra 72) between El Dorado (Av 26) and Av Centenario (C 13). There is also access from Cra 68. The exact address is C 33B, No 69-59, T2951100, www.terminaldetransporte. gov.co. The terminal is divided into modules serving the 4 points of the compass; each module has several bus companies serving similar destinations. If possible, buy tickets at the respective ticket office before travelling. It is possible to bargain with the various bus companies and reduce the price of a ticket. To get to the terminal take a bus marked ‘Terminal terrestre’ from the centre or a buseta on Cra 10. A taxi costs around US$4.40 from the centre, with a surcharge at night. As with the airports there is an effective system to stop drivers overcharging. Give your desired address at a kiosk, which will print out a slip with the address and price. Fares and journey times are given under destinations below. If you are travelling north, you can significantly cut down on the journey time by taking the Transmilenio to Portal del Norte, thus avoiding an arduous journey through Bogotá’s traffic. Velotax busetas are slightly quicker and more expensive than ordinary buses, as are colectivos, which go to several long-distance destinations. The terminal is well organized and comfortable, but, as usual, watch out for thieves who are also well organized – the number of reports of baggage thefts there are increasing. Free self-service luggage trolleys are provided. There are shops, restaurants and ATMs. There are also showers at the terminal (between Nos 3 and 4).

Modulo 4 also has a clinic giving vaccinations, open 0700 to 1900, US$24 for non-nationals.

International

If going to Venezuela, it is better not to buy a through ticket to Caracas with Berlinas de Fonce as this does not guarantee a seat and is only valid for 2 Venezuelan companies; moreover no refunds are given in Cúcuta. Ideally, if you have time, make the journey to Cúcuta in 2 stages to enjoy the scenery to the full. Bus connections from San Antonio de Táchira in Venezuela to Caracas are good. There are buses from Lima (Peru) to Caracas (Venezuela) that travel through Ecuador run by Transportes Ormeño. This weekly service is not recommended mainly because of the several days it takes and the unreliability of the timetable. The cost to Lima is about US$166, to Quito, US$83, to Caracas, US$155. Much better (and cheaper) is to do the trip in stages and enjoy the countries you are travelling through.

Car rental

Dollar Rent-a-Car, Av El Dorado, No 98-50, T413 5599 and at airport, one of the cheapest.

Hertz, at airport, T2882636, and at Av Caracas, No 27-17, T3276700.

Colombia Rent a Car, Av Boyacá, No 63-12, T47135032.

Taxi

If you are short of time, have luggage or valuables, or at night, take a taxi. They are relatively cheap, there are many of them about and the service is generally good. If you take one on the street, try to pick one that looks in good condition. It should also be yellow and the driver’s official ID card with photo should be visible; non official taxis are not recommended. At busy times, empty taxis flagged down on the street may refuse to take you to less popular destinations.

All official taxis are metered. The taxímetro (meter) registers units starting at 25 then calculates the time and distance travelled. The driver converts the total into pesos using a green fare table. If the conversion card is not displayed, the driver should show it to you. Check before taking your first taxi if there are any additional charges above what the meter/conversion card states eg: night charge or other surcharge; a list of legal charges should be posted in the taxi.

Radio taxis are recommended for safety and reliability. When you call, the dispatcher gives you a cab number, write it down and confirm this when it arrives. There is a small charge but it is safer. Try these numbers: T2111111, T3111111, T4111111 and T2233333. Tipping is not customary, but is appreciated. If you are going to an address out of the city centre, it is helpful to know the area you are going to as well as the address, eg Chicó, Chapinero (ask at your hotel).

Train

Long-distance services were suspended in 1992. There are no passenger services at present from Bogotá La Sabana station at C 13 y Cra 19, except a tourist steam train, which runs on Sat, Sun and holidays at 0830 calling at Usaquén, C 110, Transversal 10, in the north of the city at 0920, going north to Zipaquirá, 1130, and Cajicá, 1230, returning at 1515 and back in Bogotá Usaquén at 1640 and La Sabana at 1740. Adult US$15, child 2-10, US$9.40. Information, Turistrén Ltda, C 13, No 18-24, T3750557, http://www.turistren.com.co.