The Convento de San Esteban (daily 1000-1400, 1600-1900 (2000 summer)) €3, not far from the cathedrals, is slightly cheerless but worth visiting. Its ornate Plateresque façade depicts the stoning of Esteban himself (St Stephen); the door itself is also attractive. Entry to the church is via the high cloister, which has quadruple arches. The top deck, floored with boards, is the nicest bit; it would cry out for a café-bar if it weren’t in a monastery. There’s a small museum with various Filipino saints, a silver reliquary in the shape of a sombrero, and a couple of amazing early Bibles. One of them, dating from the late 13th century or so, is so perfect it’s almost impossible to believe that it was handwritten.
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