Phnom Penh travel guide

Background

Phnom Penh lies at the confluence of the Sap, Mekong and Bassac rivers and quickly grew into an important commercial centre. Years of war have taken a heavy toll on the city’s infrastructure and economy, as well as its inhabitants. Refugees first began to flood in from the countryside in the early 1950s during the First Indochina War and the population grew from 100,000 to 600,000 by the late 1960s. In the early 1970s there was another surge as people streamed in from the countryside again, this time to escape US bombing and guerrilla warfare. On the eve of the Khmer Rouge takeover in 1975, the capital had a population of two million, but soon became a ghost town. On Pol Pot’s orders it was forcibly emptied and the townspeople frog-marched into the countryside to work as labourers. Only 45,000 inhabitants were left in the city in 1975 and a large number were soldiers. In 1979, after four years of virtual abandonment, Phnom Penh had a population of a few thousand. People began to drift back following the Vietnamese invasion (1978- 1979) and as hopes for peace rose in 1991, the floodgates opened yet again: today the population is approaching one million.

Phnom Penh has undergone an economic revival since the Paris Peace Accord of 1991. Following the 1998 coup, however, there was an exodus of businesses and investors for whom this bloody and futile atrocity was the final straw. The relative stability since the coup has seen a partial revival of confidence but few are willing to risk their capital in long-term investments.

Getting around

Taxis are rare, particularly after dark. Nevertheless, hotels can arrange car hire around town and surrounding areas. A fleet of lomphata (tuk-tuks) provide a good alternative to cars. Most visitors use the local motodops (motorbike taxis). There are cyclos too. Horizontal streets are evenly numbered and odd numbers are used for the vertical ones.

The royal quarter lies to the east of the town; north of here is what might be regarded as a colonial quarter with government ministries, banks, hotels and museums, many housed in French-era buildings. Chinatown, the commercial quarter, surrounds the central covered market, Psar Thmei. Sisowath Quay is where many visitors head as it has the highest concentration of restaurants and bars.

Ins and outs

Getting there

Air

Phnom Penh International airport lies approximately 10 km west of the city on Road No 4. There are flights to Phnom Penh from Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Vientiane and Siem Reap. A taxi from the airport to town costs US$7 and a moto about US$3. The journey takes between 40 minutes and one hour, although at peak times the roads are often gridlocked so be prepared for delays in the morning and late afternoon.

Boat and bus

There is a river crossing with Laos at Voen Kham with the first town of note being Stung Treng . It is also possible to get to Phnom Penh by boat and bus from Chau Doc in Vietnam and by road crossing at Moc Bai.

Phnom Penh

Air

Royal Phnom Penh Airways has connections with Siem Reap and Stung Treng. Bangkok/ Siem Reap Airways has connections with Siem Reap.

Airline offices

Most airline offices are open 0800-1700, Sat 0800-1200. Air France, Samdeck Sothearos Blvd (Hong Kong Ctr), T023-219 2200. Bangkok/Siem Reap Airways, No 61A, St 214, T023-426624, http://www.bangkokair.com. Lao Airlines, 58C Sihanouk Blvd, T023-216563. President Airlines, 13-14, 296 Mao Tse Toung Blvd, T023-993088/89. SilkAir, Himawari Hotel, 313 Sisowath Quay, T023-426808, www.silk air.com. Thai, 294 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, T023- 890292. Vietnam Airlines, No 41, St 214, T023-363396/7, http://www.vietnamairlines.com.

Bicycle

Hire from guesthouses for about US$1 per day. Cycling is probably the best way to explore the city as it’s mostly flat.

Boat

Ferries leave from wharves on the river north of the Japanese Friendship Bridge and from Sisowath Quay daily. There are supposed to be connections to Siem Reap, Kratie and Stung Treng. In recent times the Mekong service (Kratie, Stung Treng) hasn’t been running as they can’t get enough customers now the roads have been improved. Fast boat connections (5 hrs) with Siem Reap, US$25 1-way, Kratie, US$7.85, and Stung Treng US$15.70. In low season the trip to Siem Reap can take up to 6-7 hrs. Boats sometimes break down and promised express boats often turn out to be old chuggers but it costs less than flying. All boats leave early, 0700 or earlier. Most hotels will supply ferry tickets.

Bus

Most buses leave southwest of Psar Thmei (Central Market) by the Shell petrol station. Capitol Tours, T023-217627, departs from its terminal, No 14, St 182. GST, T012-838910, departs from the southwest corner of the Central Market (corner of St 142). Phnom Penh Public Transport Co (formerly Ho Wah Genting Bus Company), T023-210359, departs from Charles de Gaulle Blvd, near the Central Market. To Kratie, 1 bus per day (US$4); Capitol Tours runs a bus to Kampot, 0800, US$2.50. There are also frequent departures from the Central Market (Psar Thmei) bus terminal. Around Khmer New Year and during the peak season you will need to book tickets the day before travel. Phnom Penh Bus Co to Sihanoukville, 5 times daily. GST buses leave 4 times daily, 4 hrs. To Siem Reap, see page .

Car

Car Rental, T012-950950. Chauffeur-driven cars are available at most hotels from US$25 per day upwards. Several travel agents will also hire cars. Prices increase if you’re venturing out of town.

Mr Vanny, a local English-speaking guide and driver, offers an excellent fast and safe service to pretty much anywhere in Cambodia – T09-285 0989/T01-197 7328.

Cyclo

Plentiful but slow. Fares can be bargained down but are not that cheap – a short journey should be no more than 1000 riel. A few cyclo drivers speak English or French. They are most likely to be found loitering around the big hotels and can also be hired for the day (around US$5).

Moto

‘Motodops’ are 50-100cc motorbike taxis and the fastest way to get around Phnom Penh. Standard cost per journey is around US$0.50 for a short hop but expect to pay double after dark. If you find a good, English-speaking moto driver, hang on to him and he can be yours for US$8-10 per day.

Shared taxi

These are either Toyota pickups or saloons. For the pickups the fare depends upon whether you wish to sit inside or in the open; vehicles depart when the driver has enough fares. Psar Chbam Pao, just over Monivong Bridge on Route 1, for Vietnam. For Sihanoukville and Siem Riep, take a shared taxi from the Central Market (Psar Thmei). Leave early 0500-0600. Shared taxi to Kampot takes 2-3 hrs, US$4, leaving from Doeum Kor Market on Mao Tse Tung Blvd.

Taxi

There are only a few taxis in Phnom Penh as the risk of being held up at gunpoint is too high. It is possible to get a taxi into town from the airport and 1 or 2 taxi companies can be reached by telephone but expect to see no cabs cruising and no meter taxis. Taxi Vantha, T012-855000/T023-982542, 24 hrs.

Phnom Penh hotels will organize private taxis to Sihanoukville for around US$25.

Banks

ANZ Royal Bank, Russian Blvd, 20 Kramuon Sar (corner of street 67), has opened ATMs throughout Phnom Penh; near the Independence Monument; 265 Sisowath Quay. Canadia Bank, No 126 Charles de Gaulle Blvd, T023-214668; 265-269 Ang Duong St, T023-215286. Cash advances on credit cards. Cambodia Commercial Bank (CCB), No 130 Monivong Blvd (close to the Central Market), T023-426208. Cash advance on credit cards, TCs and currency exchange. Union Commercial Bank (UCB), No 61, St 130, T023-724931. Most banking services, charges no commission on credit card cash advances.

Embassies and consulates

Australia, No 11, St 254, T023-213470, australia.embassy.cambodia @dfat.gov.au. Canada, No 11, St 254, T023-213470, pnmpn@dfait-maeci.gc.ca. France, 1 Monivong Blvd, T023-430020, sctipcambodge@online.com.kh. Laos, 15-17 Mao Tse Tung Blvd, T023-983632. Thailand, 196 Norodom Blvd, T023-7263 0610, thaipnp@mfa.go.th. UK, No 29, St 75, T023-427124, britemb@online.com.kh. USA, 1, St 96 Sangkat Wat, T023-728000, usembassy@ camnet.com.kh. Vietnam, 436 Monivong Blvd, T023-362531, embvnpp@ camnet.com.kh.

Immigration

Opposite the international airport. Visa extensions, photograph required, 1-month US$30.

Internet

Cheap and ubiquitous. Rates can be as low as US$0.50 per hr although in many places they are higher.

Medical services

It is highly advisable to try and get to Bangkok if you are seriously ill or have injured yourself as Cambodia’s medical services are not up to scratch. Calmette Hospital, 3 Monivong Blvd, T023-426948, is generally considered the best, 24-hr emergency. Surya Medical Services, No 39, St 294, T016-845 0000, Mon-Fri 0700-2000, Sat-Sun 0700-1800. General medicine and tropical medicine. After hours emergency care available 24 hrs. Pharmacy de la Gare, 81 Monivong Blvd, T023-526855.

Post office

Main post office, St 13, possible to make international telephone calls from here.