The Maya-Toltec ruins of Tulum are perched on coastal cliffs in a beautiful setting above the azure sea.
The ruins are 12th century, with city walls of white stone. The temples were dedicated to the worship of the Falling God, or the Setting Sun, represented as a falling character over nearly all the west-facing doors (Cozumel was the home of the Rising Sun). The same idea is reflected in the buildings, which are wider at the top than at the bottom.
The main structure is the Castillo, which commands a view of both the sea and the forested Quintana Roo lowlands stretching westwards. All the Castillo’s openings face west, as do most, but not all, of the doorways at Tulum. Look for the alignment of the Falling God on the temple of that name (to the left of the Castillo) with the pillar and the back door in the House of the Chultún (the nearest building in the centre group to the entrance). The majority of the main structures are roped off so that you cannot climb the Castillo, nor get close to the surviving frescoes, especially on the Temple of the Frescoes.
Tulum is crowded with tourists. Take a towel and swimsuit if you wish to scramble down from the ruins to one of the two beaches for a swim (the larger of the two is less easy to get to). The reef is from 600 m to 1 km from the shore, so if you wish to snorkel you must either be a strong swimmer, or take a boat trip.
There is a tourist complex at the entrance to the ruins. Guidebooks can be bought in the shops, local guides can also be hired. About two hours are needed to view at leisure. The parking area is near Highway 307 and there’s a handicraft market. A small train takes you from the parking area to the ruins for US$1.40, or it is an easy 500-m walk. The paved road continues down the coast to Boca Paila and beyond, access by car to this road from the car park is now forbidden. To reach the road south of the ruins, access is possible 1 km from Tulum village. Public buses drop passengers at El Crucero, a crossroads 500 m north of the car park for Tulum Ruinas (an easy walk) where there is an ADO bus terminal that is open for a few hours from 0800; at the crossroads are some hotels, a shop (which will exchange traveller’s cheques) and a little way down Highway 307 a Pemex station.
If you are staying in the area, the beach running south of the ruins is dotted with quiet, isolated palapas, cabañas and hotels to fit most budgets.
Alternatively the village of Tulum (as opposed to the ruins) is 4 km south of El Crucero. A taxi from the village to the ruins costs US$3. It is not very large but it’s growing rapidly and has a bus station, post office, banks (HSBC and Scotiabank), a few grocery shops, two bakeries, hotels, restaurants and tourist information....
