English Harbour and Nelson’s Dockyard travel guide

(US$5 entrance to the Dockyard (guided tour), the Interpretation Centre (guided tour), the Block House and Shirley Heights, children under 12 free. Souvenirs and T-shirts are on sale at the entrance. Parks Commissioner, T4601379.)

On the other side of the island from St John’s is English Harbour, which has become one of the world’s most attractive yachting centres and is now a ‘hot spot’ at night for tourists. Here Nelson’s Dockyard, the hub of English maritime power in the region, has been restored and is one of the most interesting historical monuments in the West Indies. It is the only existing Georgian naval dockyard in the world and was designated a national park in 1985. Nelson served in Antigua as a young man for almost three years, and visited it again in 1805, during his long chase of Villeneuve which was to end with the Battle of Trafalgar. The TV film Longitude, starring Jeremy Irons, was filmed here, standing in for Jamaica and Barbados. The Nelson’s Dockyard Museum has been renovated to give the complete history of this famous Georgian Naval Yard and the story of famous English Harbour. See Admiral’s Inn, with its boat and mast yard, slipway and pillars still standing, but which suffered earthquake damage in the 19th century. The Copper and Lumber Store is now a hotel, bar and restaurant. On the quay are three large capstans, showing signs of wear and tear. Boat charters can be arranged from here; also a 20- to 30-minute cruise round the historic dock- yard for US$6 on Horatio, from outside the Copper and Lumber Store, depending on seasonal demand. A footpath leads round the bay to Fort Berkeley at the harbour mouth, well grazed by goats, and wonderful views. Near the dockyard, Clarence House still stands where the future King of England, William IV, stayed when he served as a midshipman.

On the left of the road from English Harbour to Shirley Heights are the remains of the British Navy’s magazines and a small branch road to the Dow Hill Interpretation Centre, which offers an interesting 15-minute multimedia show every 15 minutes on the history of the island. There is a gift shop, restaurant and small museum with shell display. Local guides are also available.

At Shirley Heights, overlooking English Harbour, are the ruins of fortifications built in the 18th century, with a wonderful view. Some buildings, like officers’ quarters, are still standing, restored but roofless, which give an idea of their former grandeur. At the lookout point, or Battery, at the south end is a bar and restaurant. On Sunday a steel band plays 1600-1900, followed by reggae 1900-2200, very loud and popular. There are barbecued burgers, chicken, ribs and salad available. It is usually full of tourists, often packed, and later on the crowd can be drunk and rowdy. Great George Fort, on Monk’s Hill, above Falmouth Harbour (a 30-minute walk from the village of Liberta, and from Cobb’s Cross near English Harbour) is less well preserved....read more