Asunción travel guide

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Asunción

Asunción

by ricardo tripwolf

Dictatorial follies along the Paraguay River

Routinely graded as being the city that is least expensive, to live in Asuncion is made up of an interesting mixture of old and new architecture, dictatorial follies, monuments to fallen heroes in unwinnable wars and elegantly decaying buildings. Downtown Asuncion may only have a population of around 600,000 but including the surrounding satellite towns this figure exceeds one million. Take advantage of increased tolerance and the reduction of the police state to head to the white wedding cake Presidential Palace down by the river Paraguay, some decades back it was rumoured that if you took your time and gazed for too long the Dictator would have you executed on charges of espionage.

After this a stroll down Calle Palma may give you an idea of how Asuncion may have looked in all of its self important pomp in the 19th Century. While some restoration is taking place, many of the fine antiquated structures are being carelessly neglected. Try not to miss a trip to the Panteón Nacional de los Héroes – modelled on Les Invalides in Paris - where the remains of the Dictator Francisco Solano Lopez and two unknown Paraguayan soldiers are kept. A memorial to wasteful battles and lost wars that is well worth the journey and helps the visitor understand to some extent the weight this history still exerts on the Paraguayan national psyche. If there is any way you can coincide your visit with an international football match at the Estadio Defensores del Chaco you’ll note regret it as you will see firsthand unbridled passion for the game and the siege mentality that consumes Paraguay.

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