Cuzco sights

Along the road from Sacsayhuaman to Pisac, past a radio station at 3600 m, is the temple and amphitheatre of Qenqo iUS$10 or with BTG visitors ticket. These are not exactly ruins, but are the finest examples of Inca stone carving in situ, especially inside the large hollowed-out stone that houses an altar. The rock is criss-crossed by zigzag channels that give the place its name and which served to course chicha, or perhaps sacrificial blood, for purposes of divination. The open space that many refer to as the plaza or amphitheatre was used for ceremonies. The 19 trapezoidal niches, which are partially destroyed, held idols and mummies. Known as an Inca fortress, Puka Pukara iabout 6 km from Qenqo, US$6.75 or with BTG visitors ticket , whose name translates as Red Fort, was more likely to have been a tambo, a kind of post-house where travellers were lodged and goods and animals were housed temporarily. It is worth seeing for the views alone. A few hundred metres up the road is the spring shrine of Tambo Machay iUS$10 or with BTG visitors ticket, still in excellent condition. There are many opinions as to the function of this place. Some say it was a resting place for the Incas and others that it was used by Inca Yupanqui as a hunting place. There are three ceremonial water fountains built on different levels. It is possible that the site was a centre of a water cult. Water still flows via a hidden channel out of the masonry wall, straight into a rock pool, traditionally known as the Incas bath. It is possible to walk from Sacsayhuaman to Tambo Machay, via Qenqo, then Cusilluchayoc (Templo de los Monos, or Monkey Temple), an area of rocks and galleries with the remains of a fountain, then on a section of the Incas CuzcoPisac road to Laqo (Templo de la Luna, or Temple of the Moon), with sculptures in caves and an observatory, Chilcapuquio and Puka Pukara. Taking a guide to the sites mentioned above is a good idea and you should visit in the morning for the best photographs. You can visit the sites on foot. Its a pleasant walk through the countryside requiring half a day or more, though remember to take water and sun protection, and watch out for dogs. An alternative is to take the Pisac bus up to Tambo Machay (US$0.35) and walk back. Other excellent ways to see the ruins are on horseback, arranged at travel agencies, or by bicycle. Rent a bike for US$15-20; its a 45-minute to one- hour ride from the city. An organized tour (with guide) will go to all the sites for US$7.15 per person, not including entrance fees. A taxi will charge US$15-20 for three to four people. Some of these ruins are included in the many city tours available

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