Cuzco and the Sacred Valley information

Cusco (also spelled Cuzco, and in the native Quechua language as Qusqu 'qos.qo) is a city in southeastern Peru, near the Urubamba Valley (Sacred Valley) of the Andes mountain range. It is the capital of the Cusco Region as well as the Cusco Province. The city has a population of about 300,000, triple the population it contained just 20 years ago. The altitude of the city, located on the eastern end of the Knot of Cusco, is around 3,500 m (11,500 feet). The historic capital of the sun-worshiping Inca empire, it was found in 2006 to be the spot on Earth with the highest ultraviolet light level. (...) more....

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There are two ways to get to Machu Picchu. The easy way is by train from Cuzco, Ollantaytambo or Urubamba, with a bus ride for the final climb from the rail terminus at Aguas Calientes to the ruins (see Transport, page , for the times). The walk up from Aguas Calientes takes 1½ to two hours, following the Inca path. Walking down to Aguas Calientes, if staying the night there, takes between 30 minutes and one hour. The ruins are quieter after 1530, but dont forget that the last bus down from the ruins leaves at 1730. The strenuous, but most rewarding way to Machu Picchu is to hike one of the Inca trails, the classic example of which is described in its own section

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As no trains run beyond Aguas Calientes, the only route to Quillabamba is by road from Cuzco via Ollantaytambo. Beyond here, there are buses to Ivochote, for boats down river, and to Huancacalle for the hike to Vilcabamba. After leaving Ollantaytambo, the road passes through Peña, a place of great beauty. Once out of Peña, the road climbs on endless zigzags, offering breathtaking views, to reach the Abra Málaga Pass, just below the beautiful glaciated peak of Verónica. The patches of polylepis woodland here, with their endemic bird species, have become a prime site for birdwatching. At Chaullay, the road meets the old railway to Quillabamba, Machu Picchu and Cuzco and continues up the east bank of the river.

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An entrance ticket for the trail or its variations must be bought at the Instituto Nacional de Cultura (INC) office in Cuzco; no tickets are sold at the entrance gates. Furthermore, tickets are only sold on presentation of a letter from a licensed tour operator on behalf of the visitor. There is a 50% discount for students, but note that officials are very strict, only an ISIC card will be accepted as proof of status. Tickets are checked at Km 82, Huayllabamba and Wiñay-Wayna. On all hiking trails (Km 82 or Km 88 to Machu Picchu, Salkantay to Machu Picchu, and Km82 or Km 88 to Machu Picchu via Km 104) adults must pay US$86.85, students and children under 15 US$43.45. On the Camino Real de los Inkas from Km 104 to Wiñay- Wayna and Machu Picchu (see page ) the fee is US$50.55 per adult, US$28.85 for students and children; Salkantay to Huayllabamba and Km 88 is US$50.55. The Salkantay trek (see page ) used not to be subject to a charge, but now has a US$45.20 trekking fee. Travel agencies in Cuzco arrange transport to the start, equipment, food, etc, for an all-in price. Prices vary from about US$420 to US$520 per person for a responsible four-day, three-night trek (similar prices are charged for the Salkantay trek). Remember that you get what you pay for and bear in mind that prices lower than those above suggest that corners are being cut, with less attention paid to the environment and the porters. This respect is, after all, the goal of the 2001 legislation. There is a quota for agencies and groups to use the Trail, but some agencies make block bookings way in advance of departure dates. This makes it much harder for other agencies to guarantee their clients places on the Trail. Consequently, current advice is to book your preferred dates as early as possible, between two months and a year in advance depending on the season you want to go, then confirm nearer the time. There have been many instances of disappointed trekkers whose bookings did not materialize: dont wait till the last minute and always check your operators cancellation charges. You can save a bit of money by arranging your own transport back to Ollantaytambo in advance, either for the last day of your tour, or by staying an extra night in Aguas Calientes and taking the early morning train, then a bus back to Cuzco. If you take your own tent and sleeping gear, some agencies give a discount. Make sure your return ticket for the tourist train to Cuzco has your name on it, otherwise you have to pay for any changes. NoteYou are not allowed to walk back along the Inca Trail, though you can pay US$6 at Intipunku to go as far as Wiñay-Wayna.

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Although security has improved in recent years, its still best to leave all your valuables in Cuzco and keep everything else inside your tent, even your shoes. Avoid the July/August high season and the rainy season from November to April (note that this can change, so check in advance). In the wet it is cloudy and the paths are very muddy and difficult. Also watch out for coral snakes in this area (black, red, yellow bands). Please remove all your rubbish, including toilet paper, or use the pits provided. Do not light open fires as they can get out of control. The Annual Inca Trail Clean-up takes place usually in September. Many agencies and organizations are involved and volunteers should contact South American Explorers in Cuzco (see page ) for full details of ways to help. Guidelines for the treatment of porters can be found on the website of the now defunct Inka Porter Project, www.peruweb.org/porters/ (the website also has sound environmental information). If you feel that your porters have been neglected or abused on the trek, express this to your agency, inform the South American Explorers and please also drop us a line at Footprint (go to www.footprintbooks.com or send us a letter to our Bath address in the UK). We read all your letters and agencies who repeatedly mistreat their porters will be removed from our publications.

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