The entrance to Kathputli Colony, in Delhi’s West, is easy to miss. The narrow, dirt track which leads into the colony, turns off a busy road, packed with rickshaws honking noisily and speeding rickety buses.
On most days, a trickle of drummers and performers in Rajasthani garb with tinsel trimmings, amble to and from the colony, directing one to the entrance.
Today, an over-sized ginger-colored dog sits near the entry, barking manically and snapping at flies. A group of men with gold earrings, mullet haircuts and rough faces stand around smoking beedis, the Indian cigarette.
“What do you want?” asks the roughest in the group.
Not really sure that we have come to the right place we mutter that we want to visit the slum.
The man’s face erupts into a smile and he beckons for us to follow.
He takes us to his brother, Jagdish, a puppeteer who has just returned to his one bedroom house and eight children, after a stint performing in France.
Kathputli Colony is like most Delhi slums with its cramped quarters and depleted living conditions. But the theatrics of its inhabitants, young and old, colorful homes and props and puppets which seem to be as much a part of the house, as say, a cooking pot, hint at something more.
The slum is home to hundreds of performers, many of who originated from Rajasthan in the 60s. Kathputli Colony, taking it’s name from the puppet, for which Rajasthan is famous, is inhabited with puppeteers, musicians, animal trainers, fire-breathers, craftspeople, knife-swallowers and regular pranksters. As we pass a corner, a woman leaps forward and brandishes a knife at us, emitting cackles when she catches our horrified expressions.
Jagdish, seems to be the man in charge today. His English is good and for around US$20 a person, and some notice, he promises to organize a group of neighbors into a performing troupe.
Today, we just want to wander around.
The residents are used to foreign visitors. Many have performed in festivals and social events across the country and some have traveled abroad. Others regularly put on shows around Paharganj, Delhi’s backpacker hub.
Walking around the slum, it is impossible to deny the magnetism of the colony’s inhabitants. Children follow us around, showing us the tricks they have been taught by their parents. When the crowd of laughing kids gets too rowdy, the adults yell at them to stay back, deterring the children momentarily before they are at our heels again, asking us questions and performing impromptu routines. One boy dons a Kachchi Ghodi, the dancing horse, worn around his hips while kids jump around him. Another boy, in shorts and a singlet, wraps a sparkly gold scarf around himself and starts to shimmy, trying to outdo the dancing horse.
Kathputli Colony is not on the tourist trail. And it probably never will be. What makes visiting the colony a special trip, are the captivating residents.
Indeed, for all its charm, Kathputli Colony is in for a huge change, as government plans are in the pipeline to tear down the dwellings and move the residents into government blocks, which are still to be constructed. But before then, should you find the time to visit, you may be able to see a knife-swallower perfecting his skill or a magician practicing his tricks.
Delhi, is of course home to a myriad historical sights, but if you tire of the monuments, here are a few different ways to experience Delhi:
Salaam Baalak Trust City Walks
Inner city street children along with a guide conduct these tours, giving people a glimpse into the street kids’ lives and their perception of Delhi. Slum tours have inevitably been criticized over the years- do they raise awareness or do they unnecessarily invite the prying eyes of nosy tourists? The Rs.200 charge, however, goes towards bettering the health and lives of these street children. Tours last for two hours and are conducted six days a week.
Eating Out in Delhi
The bloggers at www.eoid.org have made it their mission to uncover the best eateries in town. About twice a month, you can join them on a culinary outing.
Hope Project Tours in Nizamuddin
On Thursdays and Fridays, the Hope Project conducts tours through the narrow, bustling lanes of Nizamuddin’s Basti, which is home to a thriving Sufi Muslim community. The tour stops at historical sites and makes a visit to the whirling dervishes at the Dargah, an impressive Sufi shrine. It costs Rs.150 per person and lasts one and a half hours. Proceeds go towards community projects.
Delhi By Cycle Tours
If you’re brave, sign up for a three hour bike tour that takes you through chaotic Old Delhi and then on to the grand Civil Lines district. The tours will set you back Rs.1,150 and groups have no more than eight people.
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